Does anyone know what to take the MSRP times to get approximately how much you should offer? I know for Chevy, you would take the MSRP x .88 to get a real close number.

 

I don't know the formula but I ordered my '08 screw xlt 4x4 6.5 bed @38,000 and got it for 29,000 with rebates and x-plan so if they could give me that price you should be able to get something close.

Steven

 

There is no "magic number". The difference between MSRP & dealer invoice varies by model, trim level, and options.

There are several places on the Internet that let you build & price a new vehicle and they will disclose both the MSRP & dealer invoice prices--sites like cars.com & edmunds.com come to mind. I would strongly suggest using these sites to get your pricing.

And, while not exactly common knowledge, you can ask the salesperson for the dealer invoice on any new vehicle that you are interested in buying. They are not obligated to provide that, but they typically will.

 

I shopped via the internet and ended up paying a local dealer $1000 below invoice plus got the rebates. Some dealers wanted to play the game and some didn't but I ended up getting just what I wanted at about what I wanted to pay.

 

MSRP is 39085. I don't really know the trim and all the options, as I was getting them over the phone from my brother in the rain. I do know it is a 2008 half ton, crew cab, power moonroof, satellite radio, cd changer, aftermarket wheels and tires, sounds like the package with a lot of options.

 

.88 formula for a GM doesn't make chevy very profitable, I'm not doubting your words, but a 12% mark-up sounds a little low.

I've always shopped for Ford trucks and SUV's taking 25% off the MSRP and using that as a line in the sand and making the dealer prove to me that I'm wrong.

The next time I shop, I'm going to send the truck info to Consumer Reports and they will provide a (cost) break down of the truck and all options, this can be had for about $15.00.

Even my method is becoming a little outdated as FMC is narrowing the gap between dealer cost and MSRP in an effort to stabliize prices. That's why the actual cost breakdown sheets are so valuable.

Tim

 

A trick we use a lot to get the invoice price and window sticker before working with the dealer is to go to Ford website(Ford Vehicles: Ford cars, trucks, SUVs, and crossovers). Then go and build the truck like they have it on the lot (or just search there inventory). Enter the zip code of the dealer when it ask for your zip. Ford will search for a vehicle and you will see the truck come up under the dealers inventory. It will show the MSRP, Invoice price, window sticker, and all available rebates. A good deal is typically to get the price right around invoice price or lower.

 

My local dealer is offering 1 penny over invoice minus all applicable rebates and thats your price.

 

Invoice + applicable rebates would be the way to buy.

 

Yes, I should of made it clearer. I meant to say a good deal would be at or below invoice without rebates. Sorry bout that. Thanks for catching it.

 

the MSRP is the manufactorers suggested retail price. you should never pay any thing that is MSRP or above. what is a fair market price to offer is 1-3% over invoice(thats what the dealer pays for the vehicle). and rember to start low and then go higherbut try not to go higher than 3%. i work for a Ford dealer and that is a fair price because MSRP can sometimes be like $2000-$8000 over invoice

 

Agreed. "One price" dealers are also a good place to avoid. It's my understanding that they typically price a new car for 3%-4% over invoice. Knowing that, I sometimes look at a the pricing of a one price dealer on a Sunday and then take that price, back off 4% and start negotiating at my normal dealer. With that strategy, you can't lose.

Tim