The GPR LED Mod as made famous by WMRiceman
#1
The GPR LED Mod as made famous by WMRiceman
The GPR LED Mod
As made famous by WMRiceman on FTE (Mark)
I thought I would put together a how to on the GPR LED mod. I struggled with my first install due to several minor problems. The majority of parts were gathered at Radio Shack, the rest were donated by work. Here goes!
I have attatched .pdf's that are a little more detailed and can be printed out for use in the shop. Page one is your parts list to take to Radio Shack and the rest are the directions.
Parts
1 – LED (Radio Shack has two sizes and three colors in each size. These are the 5 mm size)
5 mm Red LED w/ Holder (p/n 276-0270)
5 mm Green LED w/ Holder (p/n 276-0271)
5 mm Orange LED w Holder (p/n 276-0272)
1 – Automotive Inline Fuse Holder for 5x20 mm fuses (p/n 270-1238)
1 –500 ma (½ Amp) 5x20 mm Fuse (p/n 276-1061)
3 – Red Butt Connectors
1 – Large Red Ring Terminal
1 – Medium Red Ring Terminal
18 ga or Larger Red Wire (Length dependent on mounting location)
18 ga or Larger Black Wire (Length dependent on mounting location)
1 – ¼ ID O Ring (Optional)
(The parts I bought. I chose the orange to match the WTS light. IIRC they were about $6)
Tools
Drill
7/32” Drill Bit
Stripper/Crimper
¼ Drive Ratchet
5/16” ¼ Drive Socket
1/2” ¼ Drive Socket
Directions
1 – Find a suitable location for the LED and drill your hole.
Be sure to check behind the hole for clearance and hidden wires etc!!! In addition don’t do what I did when drilling. See the photo for how the chuck damaged my pod as I drilled.
(Completed install of the A pillar pod mount)
(A close up of the A pillar pod mount)
(“The Scratch” This is also a good opportunity to see how the o ring finished off the mod)
(Completed install of the in dash mount)
When finished drilling check for clearance and drill a larger hole if necessary. I used a pressure fit hold for my LED so I didn’t have to use the nut and washer provided with the kit. This worked very well for me and the threads have quite a grip on the pod. The o ring took up all possible gaps between the LED and the pod.
2 – Run the hot wire (generally red) to the GPR relay under the hood. This is located in the center of the valley. Be sure to run enough wire.
3 – Run the ground wire (generally black) to the ground for your gauges, dash, etc. This is located just behind the fuse panel cover on the right. Be sure to run enough wire.
4 – Trim wires that will be attached to LED to length.
5 – EASILY FORGOTTEN – Run the red and black wires through the mounting hole AND the o ring.
6 - Use a red butt connector to join the red wire to the red lead on the LED. Use another red butt connector to join the black wire to the black lead on the LED.
(Butt connectors joined and in place)
(Closeup of butt connectors joined and in place)
7 – Adjust your black wire and attach as necessary.
Don’t pull too hard and rip the wires out of the butt connector on the LED end!!! Cut the wire to length when satisfied and attach the small red ring terminal (Mine was blue)
8 – Remove the 5/16” bolt and place ring terminal on bolt. Reinstall.
(Wire cut, terminal connected, and installed. See Arrow)
9 – Attach the large red ring terminal to one end of the fuse holder. I chose the female end, but it doesn’t matter.
10 – Remove the ½” nut off the GPR and place the ring terminal on the connection. This should be the last ring terminal before the nut. (The highest in the stack) Retighten connection.
(Fuse installed. See arrow)
11 - Adjust your red wire and attach as necessary. I attached mine to the wire hider where the hood meets the cowl. Don’t pull too hard and rip the wires out of the butt connector on the LED end!!! Cut the wire to length when satisfied and attach the final red butt connector joining the fuse holder and the red wire.
12 – Do a final check for fitment and completion and install the fuse.
13 – Try it out! Hopefully your first try goes better than mine ; )
As made famous by WMRiceman on FTE (Mark)
I thought I would put together a how to on the GPR LED mod. I struggled with my first install due to several minor problems. The majority of parts were gathered at Radio Shack, the rest were donated by work. Here goes!
I have attatched .pdf's that are a little more detailed and can be printed out for use in the shop. Page one is your parts list to take to Radio Shack and the rest are the directions.
Parts
1 – LED (Radio Shack has two sizes and three colors in each size. These are the 5 mm size)
5 mm Red LED w/ Holder (p/n 276-0270)
5 mm Green LED w/ Holder (p/n 276-0271)
5 mm Orange LED w Holder (p/n 276-0272)
1 – Automotive Inline Fuse Holder for 5x20 mm fuses (p/n 270-1238)
1 –500 ma (½ Amp) 5x20 mm Fuse (p/n 276-1061)
3 – Red Butt Connectors
1 – Large Red Ring Terminal
1 – Medium Red Ring Terminal
18 ga or Larger Red Wire (Length dependent on mounting location)
18 ga or Larger Black Wire (Length dependent on mounting location)
1 – ¼ ID O Ring (Optional)
(The parts I bought. I chose the orange to match the WTS light. IIRC they were about $6)
Tools
Drill
7/32” Drill Bit
Stripper/Crimper
¼ Drive Ratchet
5/16” ¼ Drive Socket
1/2” ¼ Drive Socket
Directions
1 – Find a suitable location for the LED and drill your hole.
Be sure to check behind the hole for clearance and hidden wires etc!!! In addition don’t do what I did when drilling. See the photo for how the chuck damaged my pod as I drilled.
(Completed install of the A pillar pod mount)
(A close up of the A pillar pod mount)
(“The Scratch” This is also a good opportunity to see how the o ring finished off the mod)
(Completed install of the in dash mount)
When finished drilling check for clearance and drill a larger hole if necessary. I used a pressure fit hold for my LED so I didn’t have to use the nut and washer provided with the kit. This worked very well for me and the threads have quite a grip on the pod. The o ring took up all possible gaps between the LED and the pod.
2 – Run the hot wire (generally red) to the GPR relay under the hood. This is located in the center of the valley. Be sure to run enough wire.
3 – Run the ground wire (generally black) to the ground for your gauges, dash, etc. This is located just behind the fuse panel cover on the right. Be sure to run enough wire.
4 – Trim wires that will be attached to LED to length.
5 – EASILY FORGOTTEN – Run the red and black wires through the mounting hole AND the o ring.
6 - Use a red butt connector to join the red wire to the red lead on the LED. Use another red butt connector to join the black wire to the black lead on the LED.
(Butt connectors joined and in place)
(Closeup of butt connectors joined and in place)
7 – Adjust your black wire and attach as necessary.
Don’t pull too hard and rip the wires out of the butt connector on the LED end!!! Cut the wire to length when satisfied and attach the small red ring terminal (Mine was blue)
8 – Remove the 5/16” bolt and place ring terminal on bolt. Reinstall.
(Wire cut, terminal connected, and installed. See Arrow)
9 – Attach the large red ring terminal to one end of the fuse holder. I chose the female end, but it doesn’t matter.
10 – Remove the ½” nut off the GPR and place the ring terminal on the connection. This should be the last ring terminal before the nut. (The highest in the stack) Retighten connection.
(Fuse installed. See arrow)
11 - Adjust your red wire and attach as necessary. I attached mine to the wire hider where the hood meets the cowl. Don’t pull too hard and rip the wires out of the butt connector on the LED end!!! Cut the wire to length when satisfied and attach the final red butt connector joining the fuse holder and the red wire.
12 – Do a final check for fitment and completion and install the fuse.
13 – Try it out! Hopefully your first try goes better than mine ; )
#7
Excellent writeup, thanks for puting in all of the effort. Rep points given.
I only have one suggestion:
You don't need anywhere near 18 gauge wire, regardless of length. If I were doing this job, I would use 24 or 22. Electrically, you could actually go much smaller, but it gets to be hard to handle and to find connectors for. 22 gauge butt splices and terminals are abundant.
I only have one suggestion:
You don't need anywhere near 18 gauge wire, regardless of length. If I were doing this job, I would use 24 or 22. Electrically, you could actually go much smaller, but it gets to be hard to handle and to find connectors for. 22 gauge butt splices and terminals are abundant.
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#8
Thats is a great write up... Good pics and everything.. I'd give you reps... but I have no idea how to do so.......lol !!!! Also I've tried today to find the LED @ a few places. Our Radio Shacks here in Canada have been bought out by a place called "SOURCE" They have alot of the radio shack stuff but not this LED... nor can they get it for some reason... I want to do this mod, but have no idea how to get ahold of the right part... Can some one get an extra LED and mail it to me ???? Is there anyone that has an extra one.. ???
Thanks guys !
Thanks guys !
#9
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#10
#11
It is a positive indication that the glow plug relay (GPR) is actually putting out current to heat the GP's.
The mere lighting of the "Wait-to-Start" light is no indication that the GPR is actually any good (and it's a fairly high-failure item).
It's not so important to those that live in mild climates, but absolutely necessary to those that live where it gets COLD.
Pop
The mere lighting of the "Wait-to-Start" light is no indication that the GPR is actually any good (and it's a fairly high-failure item).
It's not so important to those that live in mild climates, but absolutely necessary to those that live where it gets COLD.
Pop
#12
#13
Chase..... If you don't mind.... Pick me one up to... I posted a explanation above, but I can't get the little buggers up here... I'll send ya my address and the million dollars it will cost you, if you don't mind doing that for me... Let me know if you can help !! Thanks Russ
#14
Reps to all of you!
Kel, you know the deal. Half the reason I said 18 is bc the 20 and 22 are just a PITA to work with. I would have to speculate I pulled the conductor apart or something like that when I installed it the first time. I ohmed the little wire and it jumped from about 5 to 50 and back and forth. It was either my crappy DMM or crappy wire. It could also have been the lack of ability to find the proper connectors and doubling the conductor up in the connector.
RussB, how much does it usually cost to mail something to Canada? The part weighs next to nothing.
If you have any pictures of other mounting locations add them to the thread! That way the guys who haven't done the mod yet can see all the possibilities that have already been explored.
Thanks again!
Kel, you know the deal. Half the reason I said 18 is bc the 20 and 22 are just a PITA to work with. I would have to speculate I pulled the conductor apart or something like that when I installed it the first time. I ohmed the little wire and it jumped from about 5 to 50 and back and forth. It was either my crappy DMM or crappy wire. It could also have been the lack of ability to find the proper connectors and doubling the conductor up in the connector.
RussB, how much does it usually cost to mail something to Canada? The part weighs next to nothing.
If you have any pictures of other mounting locations add them to the thread! That way the guys who haven't done the mod yet can see all the possibilities that have already been explored.
Thanks again!
#15
Chase..... If you don't mind.... Pick me one up to... I posted a explanation above, but I can't get the little buggers up here... I'll send ya my address and the million dollars it will cost you, if you don't mind doing that for me... Let me know if you can help !! Thanks Russ