I rebuild a 1977 400 and want to know if i have to get arp bolt on connecting and main. At least i was going to buy connecting rod bolts, they look small to hold 4" bore and stroke or i can use stock rod bolt ?
Ive never seen one break before but it is highly recomended to change them cuz these engines were never ment to rev more than 4k and the obvios wear due to milliage, its pretty easy and they are cheap. I changed them myself i dont know why people say theres some adapting to do its pretty plug and play, they just have to be pressed out and in, I noticed they have a redish color to them, i guess its due to the hardness degree of the bolt.... I left my original mains though....
__________________
"All right baby, see what I´ve got right here in my hands, I´ve got it right in my hands to score you baby, I think im gonna yank on a one town! Look Out!" Uncle Ted
Once the bolts have been in the rods and the rods are "reconditioned" you can't just take them out and replace them. They will have to be straightened again.
__________________
Bear Tracks
1977 F-100 Ranger XLT,400,C6,GV
Mod's Listed in Gallery
Once the bolts have been in the rods and the rods are "reconditioned" you can't just take them out and replace them. They will have to be straightened again.
I spoke to my machine shop about it, and it depends on the way you are removing them and replacing them, there they use a machine simiar to the one removing piston pins... and ofcorse you cant change your bolts the way mustang 81 wants to do it, you will have to remove your pistons from the block other wise you could hurt your rods by forcing them out and in.....
__________________
"All right baby, see what I´ve got right here in my hands, I´ve got it right in my hands to score you baby, I think im gonna yank on a one town! Look Out!" Uncle Ted
How you remove and install rod bolts would have nothing to do with distortion of a rod bore. The ARP rod bolt will distort the rod bore because they are a little bigger (fatter) and take more to torque than a stock rod bolt, hence the distortion they WILL produce. It says right in ARP directions that you can't just put them in and run them.
__________________
'79 F250 13" lift 42" Super Swampers
hmmm thats wierd i compared the ones i had earlier and arp ones and they were identical except for the "arp" amrk in the head and the redish color, and went right in smoothly...
__________________
"All right baby, see what I´ve got right here in my hands, I´ve got it right in my hands to score you baby, I think im gonna yank on a one town! Look Out!" Uncle Ted
hmmm thats wierd i compared the ones i had earlier and arp ones and they were identical except for the "arp" amrk in the head and the redish color, and went right in smoothly...
Used set of ARP's measured at the knurl .3785. Stock bolt measured at knurl .3780 = .0005. The actual over all diameter of the ARP bolt is .002 bigger than stock.
__________________
'79 F250 13" lift 42" Super Swampers
I'm gonna change them my way anyway. I know how to remove them without hit because i remove 2 of them from my 351m. I'm a welder and i know how to make something to remove them, work like a press. I made my own puller to remove the damper, piston stop to find the topdc. .002 ,i thing is not enough to tight my clearance between my connecting rod.
Mark is right, iv heard that everywhere, the reason still stands, what could happen if you just change them, i didn´t see any issues they just went out and the new ones in, the cap of the rod went in smoothly and torqued the bolts in without any trouble, balanced the engine, everything very smooth.... so whats the deal? what is the wrong here, consequences?
__________________
"All right baby, see what I´ve got right here in my hands, I´ve got it right in my hands to score you baby, I think im gonna yank on a one town! Look Out!" Uncle Ted
Uncle Ted
