How to replace your power steering pump...
#1
How to replace your power steering pump...
I just got done replacing my powersteering pump on my 2002 7.3 and figured someone may benefit from pictures and a written how to...
Disclaimer: Ford-trucks and I are not responsible for anything which can result from mis installation or other issues that may arise from following this tutorial.
With that said, you will need a 1/2" drive torque wrench capable of 60 lb-ft, an 11/16" socket, a 3/8 to 1/2" drive socket adapter, a 7/16" socket with extension, a power steering pulley remover and installer kit, 1 qt Type F Ford transmission/power steering fluid, a 5/8" open end wrench, a new teflon seal for the high pressure line, a crescent wrench, adjustable wrench for removing clips, a flat bladed screwdriver, a drain pan with rags, and of course a motorcraft or equivalent power steering pump.
First remove the air cleaner hose from the main housing using a flat bladed screwdriver. Set aside.
Then, loosen the 7/16" spring clamps for the intercooler boots, you do not need to remove them completely. Set the pipe aside. CAUTION: be careful when removing the intercooler pipe as the always hot feed to the alternator is near where you will be removing the pipe.
Put your 1/2" square drive in the tensioner adjuster hole, and loosen the belt off the powersteering pump pulley.
Next, use your adjustable wrench and remove the overflow hose by clamping down on the two tangs on the spring clamp. You will use the same procedure
on the lower feed line on the pump's bottom.
Now, remove the high pressure line from the pump, positioning your drain pan below pitman arm as fluid will start to drain out.
Since you broke the teflon seal while removing the high pressure line, install a new seal by either working the seal by hand slowly and carefully expanding it with your fingers, or by using the special Ford teflon seal installer. I worked it on by hand and have no problems.
You should now get your pulley puller ready to work. Following are pictures of how to remove the pulley...
It takes quite a few cranks to get the pulley assembly off, but make sure that you always have your hand under the pulley as if it fell, the pulley could get damaged.
Now remove the three main bolts holding the pump to the bracket. These are 11/16" bolts and are pretty snug.
Once those three bolts are taken out, you can remove the lower clamp and hose from the old pump, and transfer it all to the new pump.
Position the new pump where to old one was, making sure you put the return line, high pressure line, and drain hoses on. Tighten the three bolts back in. Ford spec was 60lb-ft for the three large bolts, however, mine were really snug at 45lb-ft. Take it as you please.
Now you can install the pulley. Make sure you drive it on straight. Using the tool, thread the inner bolt all the way into the pulley until it bottoms out, so you have as much threads in the shaft as possible. Now, just crank the installer down until it stops going. This will align the shaft perfectly flush with the pulley face.
You can now reapply tension and route the belt how it was originally. Fill the reservoir on the pump with your Type F fluid. Start the truck and apply the brakes while steering lock to lock, paying attention not to hold the wheel at lock for too long. Do this a few times, then shut the truck off. Check the fluid level and top off accordingly.
That should be it. Have fun!
Disclaimer: Ford-trucks and I are not responsible for anything which can result from mis installation or other issues that may arise from following this tutorial.
With that said, you will need a 1/2" drive torque wrench capable of 60 lb-ft, an 11/16" socket, a 3/8 to 1/2" drive socket adapter, a 7/16" socket with extension, a power steering pulley remover and installer kit, 1 qt Type F Ford transmission/power steering fluid, a 5/8" open end wrench, a new teflon seal for the high pressure line, a crescent wrench, adjustable wrench for removing clips, a flat bladed screwdriver, a drain pan with rags, and of course a motorcraft or equivalent power steering pump.
First remove the air cleaner hose from the main housing using a flat bladed screwdriver. Set aside.
Then, loosen the 7/16" spring clamps for the intercooler boots, you do not need to remove them completely. Set the pipe aside. CAUTION: be careful when removing the intercooler pipe as the always hot feed to the alternator is near where you will be removing the pipe.
Put your 1/2" square drive in the tensioner adjuster hole, and loosen the belt off the powersteering pump pulley.
Next, use your adjustable wrench and remove the overflow hose by clamping down on the two tangs on the spring clamp. You will use the same procedure
on the lower feed line on the pump's bottom.
Now, remove the high pressure line from the pump, positioning your drain pan below pitman arm as fluid will start to drain out.
Since you broke the teflon seal while removing the high pressure line, install a new seal by either working the seal by hand slowly and carefully expanding it with your fingers, or by using the special Ford teflon seal installer. I worked it on by hand and have no problems.
You should now get your pulley puller ready to work. Following are pictures of how to remove the pulley...
It takes quite a few cranks to get the pulley assembly off, but make sure that you always have your hand under the pulley as if it fell, the pulley could get damaged.
Now remove the three main bolts holding the pump to the bracket. These are 11/16" bolts and are pretty snug.
Once those three bolts are taken out, you can remove the lower clamp and hose from the old pump, and transfer it all to the new pump.
Position the new pump where to old one was, making sure you put the return line, high pressure line, and drain hoses on. Tighten the three bolts back in. Ford spec was 60lb-ft for the three large bolts, however, mine were really snug at 45lb-ft. Take it as you please.
Now you can install the pulley. Make sure you drive it on straight. Using the tool, thread the inner bolt all the way into the pulley until it bottoms out, so you have as much threads in the shaft as possible. Now, just crank the installer down until it stops going. This will align the shaft perfectly flush with the pulley face.
You can now reapply tension and route the belt how it was originally. Fill the reservoir on the pump with your Type F fluid. Start the truck and apply the brakes while steering lock to lock, paying attention not to hold the wheel at lock for too long. Do this a few times, then shut the truck off. Check the fluid level and top off accordingly.
That should be it. Have fun!
Last edited by camodown; 03-31-2008 at 10:47 PM. Reason: pictures weren't working
#3
Great write up!! Reps given...
The only other tip I have is that you can put in syn ATF and keep those noisy Ford pumps quiet. I flushed mine with Mobil1 Syn ATF and it really quieted it down. Steering seems to be smoother, too.
EDIT: And oh yeah -- see all that oil on the blue IC tube boot? Do the CCV mod to keep it clean.
The only other tip I have is that you can put in syn ATF and keep those noisy Ford pumps quiet. I flushed mine with Mobil1 Syn ATF and it really quieted it down. Steering seems to be smoother, too.
EDIT: And oh yeah -- see all that oil on the blue IC tube boot? Do the CCV mod to keep it clean.
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#8
Thanks for the nice welcomes...
I always think pictures help a lot rather than trying to explain a fix with words, glad ya'll liked it.
I need to do the CCV mod also, I've been reading up on it, just haven't had time to do the mod itself. I'll be doing a rear hub seal replacement here soon and will do a how to of that also if anyone is interested, just need to find time.
Oh, I should have done synthetic but ended picking up some type F; it was priced decent...
Thanks again for the welcomes!
p.s. What are the rep points?
I always think pictures help a lot rather than trying to explain a fix with words, glad ya'll liked it.
I need to do the CCV mod also, I've been reading up on it, just haven't had time to do the mod itself. I'll be doing a rear hub seal replacement here soon and will do a how to of that also if anyone is interested, just need to find time.
Oh, I should have done synthetic but ended picking up some type F; it was priced decent...
Thanks again for the welcomes!
p.s. What are the rep points?
#9
#15
It looks like he organized(categorized) his album and the links changed..
Nice job.. Good post. Takes time to take all the pictures and post stuff like this for us to see . Thanks millions. Good info
All can be seen here. Power steering pictures pictures by camodown1 - Photobucket
Nice job.. Good post. Takes time to take all the pictures and post stuff like this for us to see . Thanks millions. Good info
All can be seen here. Power steering pictures pictures by camodown1 - Photobucket