RARE_1, I've been thinking about what should be monitered. If you had an adjustable constant current power supply, you would not need to worry about anything else. If the unit gets hot, the current will be reduced which should reduce the heating. If the water runs low, the system will simply slow down production. If the output current could be automatically controlled up to the maximum that would be manually set. The TPS signal could be used via a follower circuit if you have an AT, you can add a TPS if you have a MT.
The limit on temperature is the water that would leave as vapor and not be broken down into HHO. I would set it at around 180deg F. Actually an snap switch like is used to control the warmer portion of a coffee maker should be about right. You could always bypass it if you decide it's a problem.
The temp limit switch needs to cut the power off before the boiling point is reached.
That value would be different relative to altitude.
Slightly under 212 at sea level, and reduced from that the higher you live.
When I was living in Colorado I drove up to Mt. Evans, the highest paved road in the world.
Over 14,000 feet you can stick your finger in boiling water and leave it there.
Nice scenery, bad place to use water to cook.
Never did get the corn on the cob to cook.
The water boiled away and the corn was still raw.
Very interesting trying to open a can of pop, and actually getting a drink also.
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86 F250 HD 6.9 IDI ATS turbo "not exactly" stock 4x4 T19 BW1345 3.55LS both ends D60 front, 10.25" Sterling rear, ram air, dual stacks.
He'll sell you one of his 100LPM units for $1500. At the rate you burn fuel, payback should take 2 weeks of heavy digging. I don't know if he has any satisfaction guarantee. You might want to check it out.
Boy I dont know, making $1500 bucks back in two weeks... I cant see why this type of device wouldnt be the number one seller for 2008. I'll wait to believe it when I see it. I'm pretty sure this is just another free energy myth. I think its a case of taking more energy to produce the gas than it puts back out. Could be wrong, but it just doesnt make sense to me (that if it were true that it wouldnt be standard issue on every vehicle, or at least available any place that sells auto stuff). If it really produced more power than it consumed, it would be a free energy device and violate the laws fo physics. You could have a vehicle that ran just of hydrogen that it produced itself... its not going to happen me thinks.
I think anyone that thinks this is "free" energy is an idiot. Strong words but I think it fits here.
What I see it as is using excess energy (electric) to make the combustion process more efficient and effective. By completely burning all of the fossil fuel we are able to stop the waste. We are talking about a fairly closed system so it will be really easy to see if there is any change. If we use less fuel, we are ahead. If we use the same or less, it's a load of.......use your imagination. For a few dollars we can try it. If it works OK, I plan to build a more advanced system for a couple hundred or so. If I can squeeze a few MPG out of the system, that's good enough for me.
Now, I can get the Stainless for nothing so I'm ahead of the average. I checked out the SS plates but they are like $4 each here so that adds up fast for a test system. I will just wait till I get the free stuff.
So, if you think it's crap, please feel free. If you have some facts, good or bad, please share them. If you're on the fence, watch this thread and see what others do.
Update......I just found out a buddy of mine has full access to lots of 18ga. ss scrap at work and is cutting it for me this week! So if everything goes according to plan, I will be testing my new design this weekend! I mentioned to him that I will be sanding a cross hatch pattern on each side once I get it and he asked what about a swirl pattern? He said he could swirl it before he cuts it.....what do you think? Also, he asked about aluminum....would aluminum work? I told him I did not think so, but I could say why.....LOL Remember.....this stuff is over my head.......Could one of you guys answer that question? Thanks!
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'03 Excursion Limited 4x4 7.3l - Family Hauler Performance Mods: Superchips flashpaq set to Performance, slotted/dimpled rotors, Zoodad mod, Steveracer mod; D.I.Y. intake. Interior Mods: Alpine CDA-9883 Head Unit w/ SWI-JACK & iPod, Infinity & Polk 5x7, Sirius satellite, Alpine PKG-RSE2 10.2 Drop Down DVD w/ PS2 Slim.
I don't think aluminum would work much better than carbon steel. It lasts well in the elements, but when exposed to corrosive solutions it can actually get eaten away faster than steel if the conditions are right.
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1986 F250HD Ex cab Fresh built up 6.9L diesel Lariat AC leather seats power everything w/full cluster, sterling rear 3.08LS gears, E4OD trans, ram intake ATS 088 turbo
1986 F150 Ex cab Lariat rollercam 5.0L on LPG AOD trans 3.55 gears 390 000Ks
Update......I just found out a buddy of mine has full access to lots of 18ga. ss scrap at work and is cutting it for me this week! So if everything goes according to plan, I will be testing my new design this weekend! I mentioned to him that I will be sanding a cross hatch pattern on each side once I get it and he asked what about a swirl pattern? He said he could swirl it before he cuts it.....what do you think? Also, he asked about aluminum....would aluminum work? I told him I did not think so, but I could say why.....LOL Remember.....this stuff is over my head.......Could one of you guys answer that question? Thanks!
How much does he have? Maybe you can get all three!
Swirl, Crossed and Aluminum.
I think the issue with Aluminum may be the length of time it would last due to the fact that it is a softer metal.
Aluminum reacts with a base to produce HH and Aluminum Oxide. As it does, it will eliminate the electrolyte. Even if you start out with baking soda, it will happen since the BS will be reduced to NaOH that will react with the Aluminum. A really rough surface is what you want. the gas will form on the peaks and float off more easily than a smooth surface. Engine tirned with a carbide hole saw would be slick.
The aluminum will not last long in the strong alkaline solution.
At the aluminum extrusion plant I used to work at, they used sodium hydroxide to clean the extrusion dyes after use.
Granted that solution was stronger than what we are using, but the excess aluminum in the dye was eaten out in just a few hours.
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86 F250 HD 6.9 IDI ATS turbo "not exactly" stock 4x4 T19 BW1345 3.55LS both ends D60 front, 10.25" Sterling rear, ram air, dual stacks.
How much does he have? Maybe you can get all three!
Swirl, Crossed and Aluminum.
I think the issue with Aluminum may be the length of time it would last due to the fact that it is a softer metal.
Gold is pretty soft and it is very stable. It has nothing to do with how hard or soft the material is. Its about the chemical properties of the material.
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1986 F250HD Ex cab Fresh built up 6.9L diesel Lariat AC leather seats power everything w/full cluster, sterling rear 3.08LS gears, E4OD trans, ram intake ATS 088 turbo
1986 F150 Ex cab Lariat rollercam 5.0L on LPG AOD trans 3.55 gears 390 000Ks
A funny thing I found here about cracking Hydrogen from water and use as a fuel.
First off, I have yet to attempt any testing with this technology, but believe there is something beneficial to it's use, and the results posted here by some is encouraging.
And the hydrogen absurdity of course ignores the severe detonation problems with hydrogen because hydrogen always explodes. We encountered severe detonation in the mid 70s by introducing explosive hydrogen into V-8 engines at JPL. Hydrogen burns eight to ten times faster than gasoline. It virtually exploded and put holes in the middle of pistons in a Ford test engine. Its octane rating approaches zero. Besides that, spending four or five times more energy to get a little bit of so-called mileage boost from water is stupid. Water is the END product of combustion. It cannot burn. No way, no how. Yet there are naive people who still fall for this nonsense. Check this out with any chemist or physicist for yourself.
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Gray 1991 F250 standard cab, 7.3, E4OD, 3.55:1 and a former Ford truck dealership "drivetrain" mechanic.
Verified 15 mpg in the city as bad as it runs now and loaded with snow for traction, with the radiator grill blocked flush, no bed cover, "drag shoot" mirrors on and I got 24 mpg at 50 to 55 mph on the freeway empty!
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Lariat AC leather seats power everything w/full cluster, sterling rear 3.08LS gears, E4OD trans, ram intake ATS 088 turbo
