Dick,

The Body Parts are fine but.... I have noticed my wrenches talking about me behind my back and...... nevermind

 

Two problems with alloys. One is that copper and chrome can go into solution and plate on the part. I can't see this as a problem with stainless, but a good reason not to use any ol' piece of metal you have handy. There is a bunch of stuff out there on the net with the chemistry wrong. I can vouch for this site http://www.holzwerken.de/museum/links/electrolysis_explanation.phtml which includes a few balanced redox equations and references to x-ray diffraction for the truly sick. Not only is it well written, but it gets the chemistry right.

Two reason to use steel bolts for the anode rather than stainless. First is that everyone who reads this has a good supply of just functional 5/16 nuts and bolts that they wouldn't mind making a bit more rusty and then tossing. Second is that it provides a low budget ammeter; if the anode rusts, you have it set up right. Stainless is safe, and if you are building a thing of beauty like eman's you should certainly use stainless so it stays nice.

I think the best way to screw up safety wise would be to use a strong base like lye, or to put the lid on the kitty litter container or 5 gal pail. (Search you tube for Hindenburg videos before doing that.) I work outside so ventilation is never a problem. (This weekend I was ventilated with gusts to 20mph.) Shorting the part or basket to the anode would also be bad. And high amp arc welders as a power supply would be a little Tim the Tool Man. The prop shaft of the USS Monitor sits in a vat of electrolyte at the Maritime museum in Newport News. The little tiny wire attached to it is certianly not carrying that kind of current. And I think that (other than my wheel cylinders) that is the rustiest part I've ever seen. I'd sure like to know if anybody has found any other ways to screw this up

 

Found the site where they did a trailer frame(I said truck frame earlier).
http://antique-engines.dickerson-design.com/trailer-electrolysis.htm

 

Maybe is I can find an empty swimming pool, I can drive my whole truck in

 

I know a guy who dug a hole in the backyard, lined it with pond liner and soaked a tractor!

 

This is very interesting, what is the solution you use in the bucket?

 

100% Sodium Carbonate diluted in Water. NOT Sodium BI-Carbonate.

It is commonly found at Pool Supply stores but is available elsewhere.

 

In the grocery store, sold as "washing soda"

 

there is a picture of the most common brand on the gallery

 

Thanks, this definetly looks like somthing that I could put to good use.

 

Some links detailing the process:

http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tools/Electrolysis.htm

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm

 

Bump Bump Bump

 

Thats an old thread! Still use the process from time to time... What year is your sportster?

 

I still use this process all the time. I have a 400 gallon tank and can do doors, fenders, hoods etc.......

 

400 gal! Nice! What kind of power supply?

What part of Oregon? Im in the Cottage Grove area...