Well I'm fairly new to the stroker idea, however I have been looking at rebuilding a 302 efi for my 1990 F-150 4x4 and I thought hey want not build a stroker.

After doin some reading the 327 stroker is the more dependable way to go as opposed to the larger 347.

I have also seen 331 stroker kits out there.

My question is and I'm sure this will sound stupid and will have a very involved
answer with a lot of depends on . . . etc.

however my question is, is a 327 stroker efi do-able and or practicle? should I bother with it? Is it something a mechanically inclined patient person can handle on thier own? Would the cylinders need to be bored? How many of the stock parts can be re-used?

I want to build a motor with some low end torque wich according to the articles I've read I can expect around 300 ft-lb and around 300 hp.
I also want it to be dependable and something that will handle the average everyday driving but give me that grunt for offroad and hauling.

any input or comments would be appreciated.

your input will help me decide on the build I will do.

 

if I'm not mistaken, a 327 is the same as the 331 but w/ a standard bore.

as far as EFI shouldn't be a problem, but you will probably need a chip to take advantage of the extra cubes.

power wont be a problem, you should easily make 300hp & ftlbstq.

 

Where would I get a "chip" and would I require a larger intake or injectors?

 

I'm not real good w/ EFI but I'd guess that a GT40 or a lightning intake would be a good factory upgrade or probably any one from Edelbrock or Holly would work for ya.

the stock 19# injectors should be plenty?

superchips or the like should be able to help you out, just tell them what your building and give them some specks on the cam, intake, headers, etc.

 

O.k. This is gonna be a real dumb question, but once I tear into the block and check the bores if they look good I should be able to do a hone job on my own and have no issues building this stroker right?

I won't order the kit untill I check the bores cause it it needs to be bored I can go the 0.030 over and build up a 331 instead of 327.

 

yeah, if the cylinders are good I don't see why not. Just make sure that your crosshatches are good, (I think they should cross every 60* but not for sure) check your guide book.

yeah a 0.030 over 327, should be a 331.

somebody, check me on this please.

 

O.K. more dumb questions, I've rebuilt a few motors under others tutelage but this will be my first solo event. I would like to know how far I should go.

I obviously will strip the whole block down clean, paint, hone/bore, new gaskets/seals, the stroker kit will provide:

331 or 347 Coast High Performance Street Fighter Stroker Kit
Crankshaft
Connecting Rods
Probe Forged Pistons (any bore size-flat top or dished-No extra charge)
Clevite77 Rod and Main Bearings
Perfect Circle File fit or Pre fit Moly Piston Rings
Professionally Balanced to 28oz external
Professional Products 28oz Harmonic Balancer
Your choice of Billet Steel Flywheel or SFI Flexplate (157 or 164 tooth)

Now The question is pay to go roller cam, full roller rockers etc? or stick with standard cam and rockers etc.?

Stock heads? Stock intake? Stock injectors? I have seen some of the mustang boys go really heavy on the injectors etc. I want this to have the most low end torque I can get from a 302 in this stroker config. Should I get some headers?

I want some help here is it a case of well you are goin that far might as well go all the way? or is it a do the stroker kit and the roller cam/rockers and phase the rest in later?

I'm not building a street rod or a race motor I want a good reliable everyday efi engine I can use around town, I can tow with and stretch it's legs on the highway etc. I'm interested in the low end torque as I've said top end HP not really an issue.

I'm looking for all the information on the topic I can get ie: pros/cons for different things.

I don't want to build up a motor and be like awe, now I need a mustang to slap it in.

Most strokers I have read about are just like street rod carbed engines stripped way down to bare bones.

I realize this is a long post but I like to be well informed before making decisssions.

Thanks in advance

 

I'd sagest the 331, as the 347 are known to have side load issues.

if it was me, I'd go for the roller cam and rockers. they will increase your hp, tq, and mpg. so will the headers long tubes are best if you can use them

build you bottom end, you can always upgrade the heads and intake later as your budget allows.

as far as EFI go's talk to Ferdic, Conanski, Baddad457, or Blurry94 any one of the should be able to help you with the EFI question's.

your cam will dictate the rpm rand of the engine.

 

Thanks for the info, I was pretty much thinking the same thing you said, but it will either be a 327 or 331 based on the cylinder condition, 331 if the sleeves are bad and 327 if they are good. and I figured rollers was the best for engine life and performance anyway.

Where would I find out about what type of cam to get? do any sites give comprehensive info on cams?

 

First I'll take this on and then we'll talk about a couple of other things. You are spending a lot of money on this engine and trying to save a nickle honing your own cylinders. I'm not saying it can't be done, but that's for your average back-yard re-ring job, not the motor you are investing in. It is probably a moot point anyway as your cylinders are probably past specs, anyway. Consider this- when you go with the .030 over pistons , you get those extra cubes. The machine shop will bore each cylinder for each piston, so your tolerances will be much closer, and that is important for higher performance pistons. Speaking of those pistons , the type of piston you use will affect your compression ratio, which can be too high in strokers for street use if you choose the wrong pistons. Make sure you run the numbers for your heads and components before making the piston choice. Finally, on the subject of roller cams and lifters. I believe your motor is a roller motor. It either is or isn't and that determines whether you run roller lifters and a roller cam. If your block isn't a roller ,(highly unlikely), it would have to be converted to roller and that gets expensive. Roller rockers are a good investment, and you want rockers that have roller fulcrums as well as tips. One more thing- consider investing in a little head porting on the exhaust side, it will compliment all the other mods.

 

thanks for the info, Makes sence to get it bored to spec. This is going to be a slow meticulous build kind of a weekend job as the funds allow thing. The current engine runs however it is getting tired and has a few leaks etc.

On the topic of getting the bore done, would it be more economical to pay for the bore or to just buy a stroker ready block?

 

O.k. for $600 more I can get this



Seasoned Hydraulic Roller 302 Block
Bored and Honed with Torque Plates 4.030-4.040 finished bore size
Line Bore checked and corrected if needed
Deck is squared to the mains while achieving 0 deck
Cylinders are stroker notched where necessary
Block is thermo-cleaned, baked and bead blasted

New freeze plugs, screw-in oil galley plugs
New Durabond cam bearings
Oil Return holes are chamferred
EVERY threaded hole is chased and cleaned
Blueprint sheet with all clearances and tolerances

Full balance sheet with all weights
Ship us your camshaft, we will degree it FREE of charge

The 331 Liberator rotating assembly consists of the following components:

Probe Industries Cast Steel 3.250" Stroker Crankshaft (7000rpm and 550hp)

Probe Industries 5140 forged steel I-beam connecting rods with 3/8th's ARP wave lock rod bolts and full floating pin ends
Probe Industries SRS 2618 alloy forged pistons (fits TFS or Inline cylinder heads) 4.030-4.040, flat top or 14.2cc dish (same pricing), TFS and Universal dome pistons upon request
Total Seal or Perfect Circle Moly File fit rings
Clevite77 Rod and Main Bearings
Rotating assembly is externally balanced to 28oz
ARP 180,000 PSI Main Bolts

 

if you have it, that will probably be your best deal thats a lot of detail work, plus the block your getting for a little bit more cash. jmo

 

yeah I'd hate to build this engine and have the block go south on me. if I start with this whole assembly at least I know I have the base. Plus to ship a used block to a machine shop from here will probably cost me the difference in price.

 

Sounds like a REALLY good deal to me, you have to have most of that done to your block anyway, and I would expect machinig costs to be close to that by themselves. Now I've really got to mention a few asides. Be careful as you get into this that you remember you have a truck, and go no higher than the 1,500- whatever RPM range on parts. It's easy to get excited and start buying parts that are all-out performance, but are meant for high RPM and not low to midrange torque. And you HAVE to do something about the heads, you don't need the big port, big valve high performance aluminumn heads , but your stock heads are going to kill the performance you are investing in. Since you expressed interest in honing your own cylinders, you are probably a little handy, and just lack the performance knowledge. Since you say this is going to be a little at a time build, consider surfing the web for home porting info, and pick up a couple of junkyard heads and doing your own porting and polishing. I've done mine and it is a satisfiying endevour, and even if you decide not to, the knowledge about what it is and what to look for will be very beneficial should you elect to have it done or purchase already ported heads. Once again, don't go crazy and start throwing in the biggest valves you can find into those heads and dont go max on the intake ports, that doesn't match your needs.