My truck's choke seems to stay closed unless i open it by hand... I got up to drive my truck and the butterfly on the carb stayed closed so when i got home I opened the butterfly by hand and then was able to drive my truck around the block with no problem. Is there some sort of spring or linkage that might have disconnected from the butterfly to the electric choke? Thanks for your answers guys and gals!
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78' F150 4x4
460 cid C6 Trans.
Dana 44/Ford 9in.
33" Wildcats on 15" procomps
"In the end, Its not the years in your life that matters, its the life in your years"
There is a bi-metal spring inside the choke housing that heats and expands causing it to pull on a rod and opening the butterfly (Non-choke position)
When it is cold it causes the rod to activate the butterfly to close.
Electric chokes eventually burn up
It is a must they be connected to the stator terminal of the alt to increase the life of them.
Check the indexing of the choke housing.
yours should be set at the INDEX mark.
choke adjustment
21: Autolite 2150 choke plate pulldown adjustment
1. Set throttle on fast idle cam top step.
2. Note index position of choke bimetallic cap. Loosen retaining screws and rotate cap 90 degrees in the rich (closing) direction.
3.Activate pulldown motor by manually forcing pulldown control diaphragm link in the direction of applied vacuum or by applying vacuum to external vacuum tube.
4.Measure vertical hard gauge clearance between choke plate and center of carburetor air horn wall nearest fuel bowl.
Pulldown setting should be within specifications for minimum choke plate opening.
If choke plate pulldown is found to be out of specification, reset by adjusting diaphragm stop on end of choke pulldown diaphragm.
If pulldown is reset, cam clearance should be checked and reset if required.
After pulldown check is completed, reset choke bimetallic cap to recommend index position as specified in the Carburetor Specifications Chart. Check and reset fast idle speed to specifications if necessary.
My electric choke went bad a couple weeks ago. Took me a couple days to figure out why I couldn't go over 25 mph. Any who, I installed a manual choke in it, and thru out the electric choke. NAPA didn't have the electric choke on hand I needed, but they had the manual conversion kit. I think it was $15 or so. I installed the 'pull' just under the key, so when it's cold out (below 20 degs) I just give it a pull hit the key and off I go.
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Izzy
1974 - F100 4x4 360 C6 - Currently being rebuilt
1970 - Harley Davidson 3-wheel golf cart Rat Rod
Is it strictly electric, or is there heat on it from the exhaust manifold too?
Many of the heat stove pipes rust off from the heat, and then the choke doesn't open. There should be a complete path from the top of the air horn on the carburetor, through the choke stove, back up to the choke housing. If all the pipes/hoses are intact, take the line loose at the choke housing and see if you can blow back through it to see if it's obstructed.
That's correct. It's a 12V three-phase sine wave. If you hook your DC meter to it, it will read around 6-7V RMS, so don't be alarmed if you measurement looks "low." It's because of the shape of the signal and the calculation the meter does.
That's correct. It's a 12V three-phase sine wave. If you hook your DC meter to it, it will read around 6-7V RMS, so don't be alarmed if you measurement looks "low." It's because of the shape of the signal and the calculation the meter does.
just wondering if there's anyone around austin or taylor that could peak at my 1974 F100...it's got a 360.
In my experience you can use a manual choke to save on fuel consumption. You just use it when you need it and once rolling you can taper it off much quicker than an electric.
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Electric Choke
