We found a Duraspark setup from a local yard. Unfortunately, we cannot pull and pick parts. Get whatcha get..

I have a couple of questions reference this setup.

The distributor is what appears to be part number D5TE 12127 EA - The Ignition Module is D8VE 12A199 A1C (Blue Tab). I also have the wire harness for this setup, said to be from a '76.
How can I find out what these are off of so that we can find the correct schematic to connect this. The yard never really said, just that this setup would work for our engine.
Last, after cleaning the distributor, there appears to be a possible crack in the lower casing, 1/2 way around the shaft, located where the Part number is. Is this a need for concern? The yard probably did not see it and we could return it. I cannot see any movement in the area.
Thank you!!

 

We found the schematics for 76-86 F series at http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0c/e9/82/0900823d800ce982/repairInfoPages.htm
Thanks Mil1ion!!
A little emery cloth revealed there is no crack in the housing and the distributor is looking pretty good.
I am still interested in the information on the ignition module if anyone may have that.
And any other suggestions for the Duraspark installation?
Thank you

 

D8VE-12A199-A1C = BLUE Ignition Module = original Ford p/n: D9VZ-12A199-A > > Replaced by 1U2Z-12A199-AA (Motorcraft DY-893)
Fits: Many different applications car and truck from 1976 thru the 21st Century. Still available from Ford, and every auto parts store.

D5TE-12127-EA = D5TZ-12127-E .. Distributor (Motorcraft DY-1463) ~ 1975/76 Ford passenger car / 1977 F100/350 351M

Ford trucks didn't have DuraSpark till 1974. 1974/76 360/390: Some F100/350's have DuraSpark, some still had points.

 

Thank you Bill, I hope to start installing these today or tomorrow and this is the last bit of information we were looking for.
The idea that these components are still available locally is the one major reason we went the Duraspark route, part(s) availability and shipping expenses. Getting things up here can be $$ and can take a while. Thanks again for your help!

 

Another consideration is to swap out the DS coil for a later model TFI coil. Easy to do and gives a hotter spark. Here's a diagram if it helps you out:



I've done this conversion on my '68 and I'm very happy with it.

 

Are these available in the local stores or special order? I did a quick look at NAPA and did not see any "TFI" coils.
Do you have a suggestion on where to pick one up?
I suppose if it is a special order part I could keep the old coil in a box as a back up.

 

A TFI (which stands for Thick Film Ignition) coil is simply the coil used on later model Fords with electronic fuel injection and the TFI ignition system. It's kind of an odd-looking coil as compared to the standard cylindrical coils that our old trucks use. Looks like this:



It can be found on most fuel injected Fords which still use a distributor. You can pick one up at the wrecking yard quite cheaply or new for about 50 bucks. I just picked one at random to show the image, they all look and work pretty much same no matter what the application.

 

I did see one like this for around 65. We'll check with yards on Tuesday. As for mounting these and brackets, is there a prefered spot or anything special to do?

 

I installed mine on the original coil bracket on the intake. When I did the conversion on Fastmover's truck, we opted to install it on the driver's side inner fenderwell.

You'll need a different coil wire due to the male terminal on the coil and the low tension hookups to the coil can be done with crimp-on spade connectors instead of the TFI coil electrical plug...other than that, it's pretty straightforward.

 

save your money and time!
fresh: points, condensor, cap, rotor, wires, and plugs go a really long way.
there is honestly not that huge of a difference in power. the truck just runs and idles a little bit smoother. i have a 500 dollar performance distributors d.u.i. with wires and the whole shibang. trust me its really not worth its weight in gold, more like lead. as long as you keep on top of your points whenever you change your oil you are good. you and i have 360's and 390's for petes sake, not 428's with a blower, heads and wheelie bar.

 

The Ford box can also take a full 12v with that coil, just don't leave the ignition on with the engine off. Did that once by accident, and smoked the box.

 

Hmmm - Wheelie bar, I like that! :-)
We've pondered alot on this one, and in many ways aggree with you. But, our main reason(s) for the switch is our ignition system needs a goin over, floating timing (probably a timing chain/gears), overall slightly rough and eratic runner that sucks the gas and a stock distributor that needs to be replaced. In reading these and other forums those who have the electronic seemed pleased with the results.
We're looking for a smooth running dependable truck that does not need constant maintenance and the extra tools (timing light, dwell meter etc..) and maybe squeeze an extra mile or two out of the mileage while increasing the performance a bit to help with towing. I'd love to have the $$ to trick a truck out, but not today and not this truck, too close to all original.. With that, I will miss the satisfaction of finding the perfect point settings. Something I seem to be challenged at doing at times.

 

Thanks for the heads up.. I have always been cautious about leaving the ignition hot without starting, rough on just about any old/new ignition system.
For this week, I'll be happy to have this duraspark system done with the stock coil. I am still trying to figure out the purpose of one wire off the coil on the new harness.

 

http://www.gofastforless.com/ Look under ignition, some good info. I have the tfi coil, gm module and duraspark dist. but not from a 360 which is what I have. I'am going to take my dist. and install duraspark parts in my dist. when I get the time. Been busy doing other more important things to my truck right now.

 

Accel and Petronix both have bulletproof conversions for around $70 that drop in the old distributor. I've had a petronix one in my 73 for 13 years/300K miles with no problems.

10 minutes, super easy, no wiring issues.