I have a question of using used motor oil. Specifically MobileGuard 550. I have access to an almost limitless supply of the stuff. Can I make some sort of a blend to burn this in my truck? I would think there is some way to process this waste oil like you would WVO. I was thinking along the lines of the biodiesel setups.

 

i think the flash point is to high
veggy oil has a lower flash point than motor oil

 

Do a search on used motor oil as fuel.
It has been discussed here on several occasions and some real horror stories have been told.

 

Thanks didn't think of that, althought the search feature on these forums leaves something to be desired.

My FIL has been mixing unfiltered used motor oil and ATF in his diesel and running it in his Dodge Cummins and Logging equipment (Kenworth Semi's, escavator, a couple dosers, skid steers, and the such) for years now. I'll have to pick his brain.

One thought from another forum is that with the price of fuel it would only take a few fill ups ($125+/fill up) to pay for IPs and injectors.

I am not saying I'm going to do it. I'm going to look into it. See if there is a way I can do this. One thought is that we do have a couple centrifuges onboard. I'll talk to my Chief and see if we can run the oil through it before pumping it into barrels.

 

i'm running used motor oil mixed with diesel, i run it at a 50/50 mix in my 6.9, i bought the truck just to experiment with for a few hundred bucks, i've already saved more than that in fuel cost, i about at 8000 miles with no problems, i'll probably try to switch to used veggy when the weather gets better, if you start mixing fuel i would start off at something like 25% used then work your way up, there are alot of horror stories on here about guys tearing up there motors but there are alot of guys who are having no problems at all, there just not saying much because they've got nothing to bitch about, if i tried something and it didn't work and i thought it was because of what i did i would probably talk bad about what i did to, but i doubt that most of the guys with problems can actually say 100% without a doubt that bad things happened because of the oil, things break every day in trucks that have never had anything but pure fuel run thru them, good stories don't make news show, bad stories do

 

That is why I want to use the old beach truck. It won't hurt as much if something happens to it. I have to see if it fire up since its been all winter since I ran her. I think my father ran it out of fuel warmig it up once last summer so I'll have to do a little wrenching.

I aslo think by "pre" filtering the oil as described it should get rid of the majority of the contaminents in the oil. We'll see. It will be a few month before I can get any rsults back but I will post what happens.

 

Well I figured I'd metion the cummins centinial system with 300,000 mile oil changes it would pump non filtered motor oil into the fule tanks and I think you had to top off the oil not sure about that part but my point is cummins seems to know alot about diesel engines and would burn it unfiltered and obviously mixed with a lot of diesel. I still filter my used oil when I put it in the tank but need to find a better way. any one know where I could get a 1 or 2 micron inline fule filter?

 

I have collected some used hydraulic oil over the past couple months and have been filtering it through 10/5 and 1 micron bag filters. There is also 10% WMO in the mixture. After filtering the oil is the color of fresh motor oil.. Today I mixed the rear tank 75% diesel and 25% waste oil...after getting the engine up to temp I hit the switch for the rear tank and held my breath....i noticed no difference in performance, noise or smoke. Back at home in my driveway, the exhaust smelled no different. I did switch back to the front tank and let it idle for several minutes before shutting down.

I spoke directly with Cummins about burning hydraulic oil, their response was, as long as it is properly filtered and dry, there are no issues assuming you have no emmissions equipment on the vehicle, which they assumed would clog due to the particulate matter being exhausted from the engine.

I'm not sure I want to go over the 25-30% mix....so far I'll be happy knocking 1/4 of my fuel bill off....

 

How about this? Go to Home Depo, Lowes or Menards and go to the plumbing department. There should be whole house water filtration systems. I have seen the large body house filters that have 1 micron rated pleated filters. The filter body is $50.....not sure about the replaceable filters.... The filter body is quite large - 3/4 gallon maybe. Maybe 1/2...I don't know if this would work well, or hold up to the oil....can anyone add to this?

 

Couple of years ago I took possession of a fuel tank removed from a local sevice station. In it were a little over 5000gals of contaminated diesel fuel (flood damaged with some dirt and water.) After allowing the tank to sit for six weeks, I measured the water level and found it had about 100gals of water. So I inserted a suction pipe and pulled out as much water as possible then raised the pipe 6inches, attached the filter and transfered the fuel to another tank. Allowed it to set agan for six weeks, pressure cleaned the first tank, added a water/fuel seperator behind the water filters and pumped the fuel back into the first tank while adding fuel stabilizer. I clogged 7 of the water filters and three water/fuel seperator cartridges. The dino fuel did not seem to affect the Lowes water filters durring the time I was using them and they did a very good job of cleaning the fuel. Ran a JD 450C Crawler, a Ford 7740 tractor, a JD 3020, an Excavator and 92 E-350 all on the fuel that summer for less than $100 worth of filters.

 

Hey guys, I am seriously considering wmo, atf and whyd oil. Do you guys know if it is possible to use waste synthetic oils as an alternate fuel?

 

Subscribing.

 

The whole house filter cartridges are fine and I use them on my processor and holding tanks prior to transfering to my fueling cart. The only thing is that the micron ratings on those filters are 'nominal'. So you would have to make multiple passes to achieve the micron rating,whereas a filter rated as 'absolute' will give you a much closer micron rating in one pass. My final filtration on my fueling cart is a Cim-tek 2 micron absolute spin on cannister. They're spendy at $35, but very effective.



(The filter before the Cim-tek is a 25 micron 'junk' filter)

 

I run WMO in my 1985 6.2L M1008. I'm looking at a 7.3L psd now and plan to run it in there too. You would have to be stupid to dump unfiltered WMO into your tank. Risk to your IP is high and you'll have to change your filters often. Pre filtering systems with pumps are complicated and can cost a lot over time with filter replacements. By far the best way to go is to get a centrifuge. You can get a good 'fuge with bowl and motor for about $700 but you'll never have to change a filter. All you do is clean out the bowl of the 'fuge every now and then. A good centrifuge will remove particles down to .5 microns. The best part is that you can gravity feed the centrifuge. I'll try to find the guy I found before that sells good centrifuges for a good price. I've heard of guys processing up to 50 gal/hr.

Edit: Here is the cheapest/best centrifuge site I've found. I actually know this guy.
http://www.wolverinetechnologiesllc....fugeindex.html

 

There are many trucking companies that mixed there oil back in their large tanks at the yard the percentage would have been small though. There are several members that puors a couple gallons in their tank when they fill up with no problems.