If you go through the trouble of installing a turbocharged 4 cylinder into your Aero, you can go the extra step of retuning the turbocharger for low end torque. Yes, you will pay for the extra pep with lower fuel economy, which sort of defeats the purpose of this whole exercise. But it will be a fascinating exercise; a sleeper van.
Even if you drive conservatively, a turbocharged engine will generally be less efficient than a non-turbocharged engine, mostly because the exhaust system has this big restriction in it (the turbocharger).
Wow, $750 for a set of MTB wheels. Crossmax or XTR?
If you go through the trouble of installing a turbocharged 4 cylinder into your Aero, you can go the extra step of retuning the turbocharger for low end torque. Yes, you will pay for the extra pep with lower fuel economy, which sort of defeats the purpose of this whole exercise. But it will be a fascinating exercise; a sleeper van.
Even if you drive conservatively, a turbocharged engine will generally be less efficient than a non-turbocharged engine, mostly because the exhaust system has this big restriction in it (the turbocharger).
Wow, $750 for a set of MTB wheels. Crossmax or XTR?
Other way around, a mildy tuned turbo charge engine often gets BETTER mileage, because its using normally wasted exhaust energy to cram more air into the engine
Other way around, a mildy tuned turbo charge engine often gets BETTER mileage, because its using normally wasted exhaust energy to cram more air into the engine
I guess the key is "mildly tuned", and it would be comparing to a normally aspirated engine that puts out the same power.
Other way around, a mildy tuned turbo charge engine often gets BETTER mileage, because its using normally wasted exhaust energy to cram more air into the engine
Does that work with MAF sensors ? more air means more fuel also, since all air into the engine is metered (unless there are intake leaks). My son has a Turbo (Eagle Talon); with ANy amount of boost, the engine drinks gas. If you dont use boost it will get comparable mileage to a normally aspirated engine.
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Green-96, XLT 2wd, 3L Vulcan, from Ontario, Canada
All original powertrain except alternator & starter motor. 302,500 kms & going strong !
Hi all
I just bought my third aerostar, a 93 ext with the 4.0 engine. It has 150,000 miles and looks great, and I only gave $850 for it at a Ford dealer.
I am junking out my 89 aerostar with a 3.0 liter after 10 years of excellent service How do I tell the gear ratio and would swapping the rear end trow off the speedometer?
Thanks
Don Smith
Hi all
I just bought my third aerostar, a 93 ext with the 4.0 engine. It has 150,000 miles and looks great, and I only gave $850 for it at a Ford dealer.
I am junking out my 89 aerostar with a 3.0 liter after 10 years of excellent service How do I tell the gear ratio and would swapping the rear end trow off the speedometer?
Thanks
Don Smith
Hi Don,
If you look on your Door Jam, it will tell you what your rear axle code is and you can find out which it is from this chart:
Hi all
I just bought my third aerostar, a 93 ext with the 4.0 engine. It has 150,000 miles and looks great, and I only gave $850 for it at a Ford dealer.
I am junking out my 89 aerostar with a 3.0 liter after 10 years of excellent service How do I tell the gear ratio and would swapping the rear end trow off the speedometer?
Thanks
Don Smith
Yes, if you change the rear axle ratio the speedo will read incorrectly. This also goes for changes in wheel size & tire aspect ratio (R70, R60 etc). Good news is that the PCU can be flashed with a suitable tuner to re-program for the new ratio.
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Green-96, XLT 2wd, 3L Vulcan, from Ontario, Canada
All original powertrain except alternator & starter motor. 302,500 kms & going strong !
Does that work with MAF sensors ? more air means more fuel also, since all air into the engine is metered (unless there are intake leaks). My son has a Turbo (Eagle Talon); with ANy amount of boost, the engine drinks gas. If you dont use boost it will get comparable mileage to a normally aspirated engine.
With a mild tune, the stock MAF computer should be able to accommodate the minor power gains. This is another reason to tune it for more torque at the low end; the fuel system can deliver enough fuel to provide the added torque at low rpms, but it will probably not be enough to maintain higher power at high rpms. But you can't produce more torque or power without consuming more fuel.
The point of most power adders is to force more air into the engine than it could normally be able to pull in by vacuum alone; superchargers, turbochargers, or nitrous oxide (which is like pumping in liquid air). The idea is that it's easier to deliver more fuel to the engine; you just squirt more through the injectors. But that's useless without enough air to burn it with.
Even if you drive conservatively, a turbocharged engine will generally be less efficient than a non-turbocharged engine, mostly because the exhaust system has this big restriction in it (the turbocharger).
You stumped me on that one. Define efficiency. How is producing 90HP with minor effect to fuel consumption considered "less efficient"? I'll take restrictions like that any day!
I have a basic manual, but it does not cover anything transmission related. This is a do or die type of question!! I am about to junk the vehicle, only because my mechanic says he thinks the tranny is dead - even though he has never heard of a tranny modulator.... Other folks on this forum have stated my problem may only be an unattached vacumn line to the tranny modulator.. I don't know if it's worth paying $150 to get it towed to a tranny shop - only to find out my mechanic was right!
I have a basic manual, but it does not cover anything transmission related. This is a do or die type of question!! I am about to junk the vehicle, only because my mechanic says he thinks the tranny is dead - even though he has never heard of a tranny modulator.... Other folks on this forum have stated my problem may only be an unattached vacumn line to the tranny modulator.. I don't know if it's worth paying $150 to get it towed to a tranny shop - only to find out my mechanic was right!
Good grief, a mechanic that doesn't know what a transmission modulator is? $150 for a tow? You really are in a tough spot. The link I posted has a picture of the modulator
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How do I tell the gear ratio and would swapping the rear end trow off the speedometer?
