I had a 195 hp marine 302 that had 76 351W heads, they had the bigger intake ports but had the 302valves...
I think you should check them out first before you waste your money on them. Might not be any better than a set of good old E7s
Well, that kinda proves my point. Those heads were a step up from stock, right? I didn't mean to insinuate that marine motors have heads that flow like the best aftermarket aluminumn heads out there. And if they are no better than E7's, aren't they just as cheap? If they're cracked they'll make just as good of trotline weights as E7's that are cracked. I'm not trying to be a smart-aleck, but can you get a set of E7's for $100 guaranteed crack free? If anything, the best move may be to visit a marine dealer or 2 and see if you can get some specs on the heads. In the end , I think buying any used heads involves a gamble, because visual inspection doesn't eliminate the possibilty of cracks and even guaranteed heads won't compensate you for the out of pocket for the machine shop costs in discovering the defects. I've personally seen some very nice heads that came off a marine motor, but unfortunately, that's kinda like saying , I got some killer heads off a chevy. If that Chevy was a Corvette, the next (non Corvette) Chevy heads are probably not going to be so special. One last thing, since they have a different casting # than the E7TE's that would normally be found on most stuff in that year, makes believe they are different, and I can't imagine them being worse.
You mentioned you were going to have the engine rebuilt but didn't want to go to the extreemes. You then mentioned you were cheap.
Concentrate on realistic goals you want for this engine and how much you are willing to spend or can afford.
You may just want to freshen up the block with a .030 overbore and a good cleaning and new bearings etc... Don't waste your money on forged pistons/rods and high rpm valve train parts if its a daily driver and will hardley ever see over 5k rpm. After the basic rebuild spend your money on a quality matched intake/cam set-up. Freshen up the ignition and exhaust system and even a shift kit and gears.
__________________ "QUALITY IS BUILT-IN , NOT ADDED"
"06" F-250 XLT/SC/LB/FX4/5.4L/ 6-SPD man. man.transfer & hubs/HD service front springs/rearswaybar/Line-X/"BLACK"
Ok thanks for all the input we'll just skip those heads and move along! However I've purchased a pair of rebuilt c5ae heads they have the hardened valve seats,springs valves,plates, studs, down to the teflon seals on the valve stems! will I have any issues putting these heads on my 1977 302? Its out of a 1977 f-100. I Just want to have the block rebuilt mild cam, tube headers I'd like to keep the 4-v factory manifold I have,and 3:50 gear in the rear, my c-4 is in good working condition. Thanks for any input.
should be ok but I would check the pushrod length when you go to assemble it... also look at the front cooling passages on the heads make sure the intake and the gaskets you have will work...
the felpro 1250 intake gaskets will cover the holes just fine...
For anyone as cheap as me, with more time and tools than sense, you can make your own pushrod length checker. Just cut a section out of an old pushrod near one end, and tap the insides with a 1/4-20 npt tap. A short piece of 1/4" all-thread and a couple of nuts and you have a homemade pushrod length checker. To make it more compact, you could epoxy or tack weld one end of the all-thread into one end of the pushrod, eliminating one lock-nut. To get even fancier you could grind the corners off the nut and use a checkering file to put knurls in it, but they don't cost THAT much to start with, especially from Northern Auto Parts.
My short block is ready to be picked up tommrow, I had them install my cam shaft,because I wasn't springing the cash for the equipment to degree the cam. So today he called me and asked me the following questions the weight of the truck,what rear gear ratio, if I was using a stall converter or not,not! and the outer diameter of the tires I'am using. Can someone answer the question what would the diameter of the tires have to with the degreeing of the cam????
My short block is ready to be picked up tommrow, I had them install my cam shaft,because I wasn't springing the cash for the equipment to degree the cam. So today he called me and asked me the following questions the weight of the truck,what rear gear ratio, if I was using a stall converter or not,not! and the outer diameter of the tires I'am using. Can someone answer the question what would the diameter of the tires have to with the degreeing of the cam????
The fact that he's asking all those questions is a good thing. Most people don't realize how important it is to match up components and set-up to intended use. It's not about "use this head, this cam, this carb and these headers , and it will blow everything else away...". While I'm fairly certain that this guy isn't going to change the degreeing for 1/2 to 1" of tire size difference, if you're running 33" tires and some stiff gears, you need a different set-up from someone running 28" tires and 4-11 gears. Similarly, using the first set-up and stock stall converter is going to be totally differenty than the latter with a 3500 stall converter. Basically, he is trying to get an idea of intended usage, and the more informed he is as to what is going on , the better he can tailor your motors performance to your needs.
Question answered,makes more sense to me now. Use to be you just stab the new cam in your engine line up the timimg marks and your good to go. I havent been keeping up with the times. Learned suthin new again! thanks to all who have contributed their thoughts and opinions. I'll keep everyone posted maybe I'll have it back in the truck this weekend and running again! Bob
