Stu,

I measure the thickness at the hand hole. I just measured the hub hole, it is 5/16".

 

The split ring rims I have measure 3/8" at the hub hole.

 

I measured a set of 6.00 x 20" RH-5°s and they are 5/16" like the book indicated.

 

Stu, how do you make that degree symbol? I used to know but CRS is kicking up..... thanks.

 

How about wheel adapters? Does anyone know of a bolt pattern adaption ever manufactured for "heavy dutys"?

 

mtflat - It's an "Alt" function that you can create in Word as I recall. I used the Help feature to figure it. The easiest way, though, is to use your edit, copy, paste feature to save the character to an email in your draft folder. Then just copy/paste it each time you need it. Does that make sense? I just did a trial run to make sure it works. First you highlight the "RH-5°", then go to edit on your tool bar, select "copy", then open up a separate email window and "paste" it into the body of an email. Then save that as a draft. Then it's there each time you need it. Hope that makes sense.

Wheel adapters - The only company I'm aware of that does that is Arrowcraft (www.arrowcraft.com). But all they show on their site are adapters to go from single rear wheel to dually. As I try to envision how you'd do something like you're suggesting, I'm thinking that it'd add several inches on each side to the truck's track. Not a problem in the back maybe, but might rub on the front. And would look like heck. My M-Hs used adapters to convert the stock rear from 8 lug x 6.5" circle to 5 lug x 8" circle. This was done to match the rear with the front hubs/drums. Those adapters are a good five inches thick I'd guess. Stu

 

I haven't got to drive my old truck yet except for on and off the trailer I used to haul it down here from Little Rock where I bought it. It's a '54 F600 stake bed (was used on a rice farm) with 18,000 miles on it. The tires are the original B.F.Goodrich Silvertown 10 ply. Those old widow-maker wheels have never been apart as far as I know. I haven't driven it because I'm scared the tires may blow, especially if I put a load on them. I've replaced all 4 rear wheel cylinders and the master cylinder and had the radiator top resoldered and replaced the battery cables and all fluids, rear diff, tranny and engine oil. I bought it to haul building materials for my shop I'm building and other odd jobs, then take it all apart and make it real pretty. I really do love that old truck. The doors close like a new one. I'm wondering if I should replace the engine with a modern one and store this one since is has low miles and it won't be long before the unleaded gas
ruins the valves and seats. I'd have to replace the tranny too or have an adapter plate made to bolt it up to a modern engine.
I may try to mount the tires today. I've read some old horror stories on another site about the old rims coming apart and hurting/killing people and it usually involved airing them up while beating on them. Keep in mind that I just recently learned about these rims and have yet to take mine apart to see exactly how they work.My question is why were they beating on them? I am pretty sure you put the two halves together and twist to lock them. Anyway, I'll figure it out when I get one apart. (if I can figure out how to get one apart )
Thanks for letting me ramble.
Dan

 

Thanks Stu, uh, duh......... makes perfect sense and I've got it saved. The alt feature was what I was trying to remember.

Dan, that sounds like a great truck you've got. I've often thought of using a log chain around the tire/wheel combo in 2 or 3 places if I had to inflate one where a cage wasn't available. Something on the order of 3/8" links with grab hooks?? Drop it thru the hole in the rim and over the tire to hook it. I'd still want to be back away with a remote air chuck.... All of this falls in the 'don't try this at home' category of course.

 

Dan,

If you are doing the work yourself, which I strongly discourage, all I can say is be very, very careful. The real danger of the WMs is they can also blow apart as they are being disassembled, or while just sitting. Most people think the danger only exists when they are being inflated. The key to the failure is the rims depend on pressure to hold them together. Once the pressure is relieved a little the rims can **** and come apart very explosively because there is still a lot of pressure left in the tire.

The reason you would beat on the tire is insure the bead sets properly. By beating on different parts of the tire it moves around a bit and slides into the area that aren't completely seated.

Please, if you are going to work on your wheels make sure the least you do, and I don't think this will help much, is stay out of the line of fire of the rims. The very least, and again it's not the best situation, wrap a chain through the hand holes to keep the wheel together in the case of separation. Once apart make sure the rims parts are clean and rust free and not distorted in any way before reassemblying them.

About your drive train, I wouldn't worry about unleaded gas, your valve seats should be hardened which aren't affected by unleaded gas. You may do more damage to the engine by not using it. With 18K miles this truck must be in really nice condition, I wouldn't do a thing to it except clean it up and enjoy using it. My suggestion in my post above about using a newer truck for major hauling was aimed at anyone who wanted to use one of these old trucks for daily hauling in a commercial venture. From what your described it doesn't sound like you're going to be using it every day for major hauling. I would just leave it as it is, JMO.

 

Stu,

After reading MT's question I played around trying to see how it is done. Your way will work but I think the easiest way to do is compose your message in Word, use the "insert" feature, and then click on "Symbol". From there you can insert the " º, ¿, ™" symbols. Then highlight entire message and post it here.
The other added advantage of using Word to compose your entire message is you can use the spell check, if especially if you're a bad speller like me.

I always wondered how you posted the degree symbol, you made me think and now I have upgraded my posting skills.

 

All this trouble for a little "°"!

 

What about a big "O"

OK, now we're getting off topic.

 

BobJ,
Yes, she's in great shape. The tongue and groove bed wood and sides are still solid. Well, everything is solid. No rust. No heater!! The heater/defroster was an option and since this was a farm truck for use in the summertime, I guess they didn't need one.
Its got a cool Powerking V8 decal on the valve cover. Something else I thought was cool is the oil filter was an option on the 130 horse V8. I got pamphlet off Ebay for the 1954 F600 with all the specs, different configurations, colors, etc.
The right hand tail light was an option. Turn signals were an option.
the Right hand visor was an option.
I love this stuff.

 

Oh, and yes, I am going to be extremely careful with the wheels. I'll wrap a chain I have that the railroad used to pull locomotives around it after we air it up and use the dozer to bounce it up and down some to make sure its gonna stay together.
Another question.
This has to do with the temper/hardness of the wheel.
If I welded a band to that band that runs around the rim (where it comes apart) so that it hangs out over the other half some, (over the rivets holding the wheel center to the rim) grind and punch out the rivets, weld a nut over each rivet hole and bolt the halves together so it wouldn't come apart as I was driving down the road and blow thru the door of a soccer mom's SUV, would it weaken the wheel? I know it would be a pain to balance but it would make the rims safe. They would never come apart again and I could mount my own tires.

 

Sounds crazy to me. There are two sets of 22.5" tubeless rims available right now, RIGHT NOW, that would be safe, reliable, and you'd be done messing with this subject. Chuck's Trucks has one set, and member "phyrphyter" has the other set listed in the FTE classifieds. Please don't try to cob together makeshift wheels.