Anyone have a simple and inexpensive bio-diesel processor that they made and are willing to help me out with their design or just something they know. I want to build one soon. Even just a parts list would be great.
Thanks.
I might sound like a hound here, but why is it something that has to be done...what will happen to the truck? The reason I ask is because I saw the episode of Trucks!, when Stacey David making biodiesel and he didnt water-wash his batch, and ran it in a truck right after it was made. But I don't know i do what I have to.
I might sound like a hound here, but why is it something that has to be done...what will happen to the truck? The reason I ask is because I saw the episode of Trucks!, when Stacey David making biodiesel and he didnt water-wash his batch, and ran it in a truck right after it was made. But I don't know i do what I have to.
You could run "raw" biodiesel, BUT it will slowly kill your engine. Raw biodiesel has excess Methanol, Catalyst, Water, Glycerol, and Free fatty acids in it. Not very good for engine life.............I also do not use water to wash my bio. I use Magnesol and dry wash.
__________________ FABMANDELUX. Don.
To join the Oregon Chapter, click HERE
why is it something that has to be done...what will happen to the truck? The reason I ask is because I saw the episode of Trucks!, when Stacey David making biodiesel and he didnt water-wash his batch, and ran it in a truck right after it was made.
The guy on Trucks made a small batch, Dr Pepper technique, and that amount is not enough to harm your truck; however continued use of contaminated fuel will.
Unwashed BD contains residual amounts of partially reacted oil in the form of Free Fatty Acids (FFAs) they will attack metal parts in the fuel system and cause corrosion. It also contains un reacted NaOH/KOH (depending on which you use) and Methanol that will also damage metal parts. Glycerin is also present, it's very thick and gelatinous, it will plug things up and it gets carmalized (burned on) in the cylinders. The FFAs and residual (X)OH will also combine to make soap, another nasty mess.
Additionally the FFAs can start a process called polymerization that can result in plugged injectors
I have somthing else...is there a kit I can buy to do the titration tests? If not then what can I do?
Here is what you need to titrate
bottle of phenol red indicator or phenolpthalein . You can get phenol red at the hardware store if they sell swimming pool supplies. Phenolpthalein is at laboratory supply houses or science educational suppliers like www.enasco.com
1 bottle of distilled water (Steam Distilled if possible)
an empty bottle to store 1 liter of the .1% NaOH solution in
a container of NaOH or KOH- Red Devil Lye from hardware store or KOH from braintan.com
isopropyl alcohol- at least 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol or 99% in the form of red bottle IsoHeet from auto parts stores
three oral syringes- sold at drug stores- graduated in ml.
a way to measure 1 liter- graduated cylinders from eNasco.com or US Plastic Corp, or large kitchen measure cup
several small jars- one to use as the titration 'beaker', one for a sample of oil, and one for handling the .1% NaOH solution so you can dip a syringe into it without contaminating the whole bottle. If using IsoHeet add another one so that you can use the syringe in spite of the IsoHeet's small bottle mouth.
a rag to wipe out the 'beaker' between titrations.
a scale- triple beam is versatile, but something smaller from eBay or smoke shops or pawn shops or science supply houses works fine. There are a few at www.b100supply.com and www.biodieselwarehouse.com.
I've been using it for 4 years. I find that it consistently produces a higher quality product and only adds about $.05 per gallon. I have 0 wash water to dispose of and I don't contaminate my bio with water that has to be removed.
__________________ FABMANDELUX. Don.
To join the Oregon Chapter, click HERE
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