So I picked up the weekly Bulletin Board paper, and ended up buying an 85 300 with all accessories, minus cap and rotor. How much, you ask? A smooth $75 bucks, plus 20 for the engine stand (same as new). This is going to be my first real build on an engine, so I'm looking for input. I'm very mechanically inclined, but I've never fully built before.
So now I ask for your experience and opinions. I'm wanting something solid, good throttle response, max power/torque, street worthy, but if i want to put it on the track, i don't want to be embarrassed. I'm going NA, and I'm tearing it completely down and starting from scratch. There is an excellent machine shop about 3 miles from my house, and I plan on a bore (how much; recommended pistons, etc?), crank balance (should I use the factory, or do I need something to hold up to more horses?)....I think you get the idea.
This is going to take some time, because I just don't have the resources to do it all at once.
Any and all info or recommendations are appreciated.

 

Just duplicate this fine example of a properly tuned 300:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=13267

 

Any or all info and recommendations are already posted on this Forum and at fordsixperformance.com. Ya got a bit of reading to do.

 

Harte3: Thanks for the link. I didn't even know about that site.
85E150: Thanks, that will give me some good starting points.

Anyone have any info or advice on things I need to be cautious about or watch for?
Like I said, this is the first engine build I've ever started, and I basically like to hear any and all comments that anyone may have.

 

It depends on what you want to achieve. Do your reading, take notes, make a plan, and work your plan to accomplishing it.
Don't need to bore more than is necessary to clean up and square up the bores. Use Hypereutectic pistons...not expensive and stronger than stock cast and come in standard oversizes. Mild porting/polishing on the head, port matching/blending the intake and exhaust manifolds with the head. Three angle valve grind with the valve job on the head. Check with your machinist on what he suggests. A number of cams available...if you want driveability stay away from the lumpy grinds. Check with the cam mfg's on what is available and what they suggest. Offy DP Intake is great for street but is for 4v carbs only. Carb probably no bigger than 500 cfm. If you want to use a 2v carb use an Offy C or Clifford manifold. EFI exhaust manifolds are less expensive and not troublesome like headers can be.
Planning and patience.

 

You got the GREATEST TRUCK MOTOR ever. Im Building one slowly I wnt with a 260 comp and EFI headers I went backwards and installed Contacts with a Petronix unit. I looked into stroker cranks but they are custom cuts and spendy. only advice I have is have fun and enjoy it.

 

Oh yeah, I loooove this engine. I had a 92 4x4 with the 4.9, 84 and 96 4x4'swith 5.0/302, and a 79 T-Bird with 351W, and the 300's have definitely been my favorite. When I saw that price, and talked to the guy on the phone, I knew I had to buy it.
Harte: Awesome info there. I already have the EFI's, and getting ready to order the Walker pipe, all to go on the truck now, and staying when I drop in the new engine. I'm going with 2.5" with a hi-flow Magnaflow cat, no muffler right now...maybe later....all turned out in front of the rear wheels. Once I get this engine done, I'll retune the exhaust to fit what I end up with.
I'm soooo anxious about this, but I know I need to take my time to get it done right and not run myself into the ground financially. I have a goal of two years for it to be in the truck...that's counting new transmission too. I don't think that's too far for me to shoot. Hell, I don't even know that it'll go into this truck. I may have a different one by then. lol.
THanks guys.

 

Another question:
I've read a lot of info on gasket matching the head. As I said before, I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but is this something I would want to tackle on my own, or would I be better off just letting the shop do it when I have it fluxed and stuff? I'm kind of nervous about screwing it up.
What's this "desktop dyno" that I'm hearing so much about?

 

Most of what I have seen suggested is to port match/blend manifolds to the head rather than a gasket match to avoid making the ports larger than they need to be which can be detrimental. Check with your machinist on that too.

 

generally when i do a rebuild i...

visually inspect the engine as a whole.
as i am tearing down take notes of placement of fasteners and use baggies with papers of where they go inside.
as i clean i inspect and measure.

dont forgot to remove all fittings and freeze plugs. some core plugs u may not be able to remove without a torch. it'll save u some money at the machine shop. only thing left for them is the cam bearings.

also, bore only as much as needed. and do not buy ur rebuild kit first, wait until the machine work is done. to many times have i seen and heard of people buying a .030 over rebuild kit only to have a block need .040 or more.

for the head a 3 angle valve job, back cut the intake valves, bronoze valve guide inserts, .010 milled off the head (more if it is needed) to raise the compression a tad and clean up around the throats will be sufficent. if u want u can polish the combustion chambers and exhaust ports. if u are feeling ambitious u can remove the thermactor bump and remove and casting flash from the intake port but dont hog it out.

 

Get the head checked real close for cracks and pitting. Have some good cam bearings and freeze plugs installed in it. Build it tight and break it in slow.

 

If I can ever get my friend to get his damn hoist over here, I'll get it out of the back of my truck and get started with the teardown.
I'm getting anxious again!!!!
What do you guys think of the price I paid? good/bad?

 

sounds completely fair to me.