I've been to the dealer three times and they can not find the source of my engine oil leak. They have pressured washed the engine and added dye to the engine oil. The oil leak started at 1500 miles and I now have only 9500 miles on this truck in 2 1/2 years. The oil leak is not measurable on the dip stick.
Here is what I have observed laying under my truck: I have a very small amount of droplets of oil at the bottom of the bell housing. Nothing drips on the floor. It appears to be "oil wet" just above the oil pan in front of the engine (left to right). The oil pan gasket is not leaking. It is "oil wet" at the rear of the engine (passenger side) just above the oil pan. A wet oil line/path comes down the front of the bell housing on the passenger side and dropets of oil hang from the bottom of the bell housing. I have been on top of the engine and it look dry of oil and is clean. Can anyone help me? Thank you.
Weeping return hose from the intercooler that was putting a little oil up on top of the engine that found it's way down the back and to the bell housing.
CAC tubes: The CAC tube oil leak is caused because the crankcase ventilation is routed into the inlet side of the turbo, and oil build up in the tubes is normal, and then it seeps out around the hoses and onto the top of the engine then runs down the rear of the engine onto the bell housing.
Check to see if you have an icp sensor in your right valve cover (0303 and early 04). if you don’t, then it is under your turbo. The icp sensors have caused many oilleak concerns, especially on the 03 – early 04.
Oil Leaks from Lower Engine Area:
Some 6.0 engine may exhibit an oil leak that appears to be coming from the lower crankcase (bedplate), upper or lower oil pan, rear main seal, or front or rear covers. First inspect the cam and crank position sensors to ensure the leak is not the o-ring on one of these sensors. If the sensor(s) is wet, remove it and replace the o-rings. Cam sensor (driver side): 3C3Z-9N693-HA and -JA; crank sensor (passenger side): 3C3Z-9C064-DA.
An oil leak may occur at front or rear covers if they were removed without cutting the sealing joints behind them. Broadcast Message 1268.
Oil Leaks from Front and/or Rear Crank Seals:
If an oil leak has been verified as coming from either the front or rear crankshaft seals, the crankshaft end play must be checked to ensure it is 0.020" or less. If within specs, replace the seal using the correct tools and procedures. Broadcast Message 1240.
2003-2004 Oil Leak from Head Gasket:
Some engine may exhibit what appears to be an oil leak from the head gasket. Since there is no pressurized oil at the head gasket, a leak at this location is unlikely. Inspect the following area instead: turbo oil feed and return, oil cooler, HP oil pump cover, ICP sensor, IPR valve, valve cover gasket, rocket carrier gasket, Injector and glow plug ports and crankcase breather port. Use florescent dye and an UV lamp to pinpoint the source of the leak. If the leak is from the head gasket, the head should be removed and it and the block checked for flatness. Broadcast Message 0873.
Rear Main Seal Leak:
Some trucks with the 6.0 may exhibit what looks like an oil leak from the bellhousing, presumably for the rear main seal. This actually may be excessive grease from the torque converter pilot melting and running out of the bellhousing. It is recommended that 3 ounces of florescent dye be added to the oil, the truck driven, then the leak inspected with an UV lamp. If dye is detected, the engine should be inspected for leaks on top that may be running down the back of the engine. If no upper leaks are detected, replace the rear main seal. Broadcast Message 1017.
Oil supply line to the turbo
Bedplate gasket - sealing surface for the bed plate on the cylinder block assembly.
Oil Pan/Bed Plate:
· The 6.0L Power Stroke uses a two piece oil pan. The lower half is wider than the bottom of the engine to increase its capacity. Due to this wider oil pan, an upper oil pan is used to adapt the lower pan to the bed plate. The upper pan also acts as an oil baffle.
· The upper pan is bolted to the bed plate. The bed plate replaces the individual main bearing caps. This one piece design results in a more rigid bearing retaining system.
The pick-up tube is bolted to the upper pan and oil is routed through the upper pan and the bed plate to the front cover.
Bismic, Thank you for your responses. I am going to study in detail your responses. Excellent information. Thank you. At the moment I have the Manager's attention of the same dealer and have another appointment for Monday. I called their Customer Care department and they had the manager call me and I am to go to him directly on Monday. I kept the conversation friendly, but firm and spelled out how my problem was not fixed after 3 trips in. I also bought the truck at this dealer. I have about 6 months left on my 3 year/36000 warranty so if they don't solve my problem this time I will go to another dealer.
Another problem I had in less than 6000 miles on this 2006 was my speedometer went out 2 times and had to be replaced two times (the whole instrument cluster). The Service advisor told me he never heard of such a thing and I am the first person to experience this. Hogwash! I found a TSB addressing this problem on this website. I don't trust any of those guys any more. Thanks again, Gary A.
I took my 2006 6.0 L Diesel truck (9900 miles total in 2 1/2 years) to the dealer today and here are the results of their inspection for the cause of the engine oil leak. They have to pull the transmission to reseal or re-gasket the plate on the rear of the engine. They also said that they will replace the rear mainseal while they are in there. I am not familar with the purpose or function of this plate at the rear of the engine. Can anyone shed any light on this for me and comment on their findings? Also, the bolt on the front of the engine on the passenger side (just above the oil pan) holding the ground clamp has oil around it. They will reseal the bolt they say. All comments on this would be appreciated as I am at the dealer's mercy. Thank you everyone!!
Gary, I can give a few responses but I am not a mechanic. I have had the rear main seal replaced 3 times...9000 miles, 11,000 miles (poor technician work prior) and 32,000 miles. And I still have a shadow of oil over the bell housing out of the "viewing" grommet (it is not from the oil pan) at 69,000 miles (75K warranty). I have taken the position that it is a waste of time, up to this point, to redo the rear main (if that is what is leaking now), it wasn't going to eat me up unless it dripped worse on the driveway or in the garage. As I near the end of the extended warranty, it takes on a different approach. I also have had a leak at the ICP sensor that was fixed. I hope they chase your problem down, hang in there and work with them. I also have had repeated fuel gauge problems, and I got frustrated and got into it with the service people, which did no good. Force their hand and keep pressuring them to fix it correctly, but be polite. I toughed it out over 20,000 miles on the fuel gauge issue and they finally got it fixed. I have wasted a lot of time at the dealership, that is time and money I will never recoup.
Danocross, Thanks for your response. Also, my instrument cluster has been replaced two times. Each time the dealer said to me, Wow, you are the first one with this problem. My speedometer went crazy. I keep hearing that line from everyone from ATV dealers to Car dealers. I since have found a TSB put out by Ford stating there is a problem with the instrument cluster. And the mechanic at the dealer confided in me that Ford has a big problem with instrument clusters. Now, I have noticed a couple of times that after filling up with diesel, my gauge doesn't register full until a few miles down the road. Is this a problem coming up for me? Or is it normal?
What was wrong with your fuel gauge? Sending unit or instrument cluster? This is good info to have in my back pocket. And yes, I agree with you, be polite. I was polite today as I went to the highest level I could get to to give feedback. And I don't talk their ear off. And then I got people's attention. I wish it didn't have to be this way. Gary
My opinion is that after a diesel tech has placed the dye in the oil, they SHOULD be able to find the problem. Of course, it always doesn't happen that way! I had to go to a more competent dealership after the first one changed out a lot of parts and the leak stayed the same. The second dealership determined it was a bedplate leak. The greatest part is that not only did they fix that, but they also put in new head gaskets, ARP headstuds, EGR Cooler, and an EGR valve while they were in there! Now that's Service! Not to mention competence and knowledge of the motor so that they could fix the problems before they arose! Now I have no more oil leak and less worries about the future. It all boils down to a good dealership with a competent diesel tech.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.