4.2 shows no oil pressure

[Holmesuser01]

The vaseline trick has always worked for me!!

It even worked when I was rebuilding a (cough) Dodge motor.

[seabla]

well, the oil pump drive does not move!!! I removed the oil pump and had my wife crank it over and the drive does not rotate. I think its time for a real mechanic to take over. Any last suggestions other than dynomite?

[BlueOvalFitter]

Originally Posted by scottie2hottie

I've used the drill and hex bit trick to prime plenty of times, but never on a motor that doesn't have a distributor. In fact, I've never had a need to prime a motor that didn't have a distributor, YET. I'm sure time will run out for us old fashioned folks. How do you access the pump drive with the pump installed?.....about being LSU boy, guess I can't really trump you, cuz you trumped us pretty bad last month didn't ya LOL.

Scottie,read my above post again about "bench" bleeding a master cylinder.The theory is the same for the oil pump;"bench" prime it,as he said he did.And,you see another person knows about the "vaseline" trick! Stick around;you'll learn something from us old farts!

[bokker]

hi, the drive for the oil pump is the shaft that runs down from the cam synonizer. you have a new cam cover to use as a replacement so its all in the same area. i am not sure if the shaft is an easy purchase but its worth a try. some one here will be able to help.
if you picked up the loss of pressure quickly the engine should be ok. good luck bokker.

[bokker]

hi did you get any result, bokker.

[flagbagger]

Just finished rebuilding a 97 4.2. The oil pump drive is indeed driven off the camshaft (sensor) syncronizer shaft which may be removed from the engine by first removing the EGR pipe & getting a heater hose out off the way. IF the oil pump drive shaft is still attached/retrievable therough the hole,the sensor is held in place by two screws & may be removed without any problem. The syncronizer assembly is held down by 1 bolt & large washer (much like a distributor). Note position of electrical connector (and the sensor vane at the top of the shaft) so the new shaft can be meshed with the cam gear to end up in the same direction. Note that the Cam sensor is only used to time fuel injection. #1 cylinder should be at TDC on compression stroke for above installation (tool available also to ensure correct syncronizer installation).
Haynes manual indicates oil pump prime procedure as: remove all sparkplugs, disconnect ignition coil and fuel pump (kill switch located behind passenger side kick panel) & turn engine until fuel pressure is indicated on gauge or idiot oil light goes out (noting this is for an engine rebuild & oil pressure should build quicker in an engine that hasn't been apart/cleaned).
Hope this is timely & helps
Cheers
Flagbagger