Update,, This van is my third vehicle So that is why I took soo long to reply
Ok I put another MAF.. Still rough idle,, But I ran two cans of carb cleaner to the carb.. It still idles rough but not as bad..
Then I noticed,, WHen I undid the air hose from the carb.. The engine smoothed out, but the engines rpms went up... then I put the hose back on and the idle went rough again!!
I checked the hose.. Nothing blocking it (no birds nests, rats, mice nothing)
I need to get this van inpected by the end of the month!!!!
Could that darn MAF be bad?? If so,, how do I test it,, Cash is a little tight right now..
codes from ECM will tell us if MAF has failed or not working due to wiring/electrical
or if there are other engine performance issues
Autozone and many parts stores will pull codes for free, call ahead
has this rig ran correctly in the recent past?
try pulling out the old air cleaner element, they do plug up
Thank you for repling.
was the replacement MAF used or new?
It is used,, i bought it off of ebay,the seller told me that if there is any problem he will send me another.
I emailed him last night and told hm what was going on... He is going to send me another Monday via UPS... Hooray!!!
have you pulled the codes yet?
No I have not,, I am having a heck of a time trying to find a auto parts store that has the equipment to pull the codes off of a 1989 vehicle..
AutoZone, Advamced Auto, Pepboys all said no.. I call carquest in the morning..
To whomever it may concern: schucks DOES HAVE a universal code reader. and i mean it! i've used it on 3 of 4 OBD1 aero's that we own. not the best tool (no awsome 3d graphics) but it pulls the codes and gets the job done.
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93 3.0l xlt extended aerostar
mods:
800 watt sound system.
200+ farad kenetic battery + 875 cca reg. battery
2" catback exhaust w new flexpipe and cherry bomb muffler.
4g alt. wiring
Gutted stock airbox
2nd row bucket seats
Update,, This van is my third vehicle So that is why I took soo long to reply
Ok I put another MAF.. Still rough idle,, But I ran two cans of carb cleaner to the carb.. It still idles rough but not as bad..
Then I noticed,, WHen I undid the air hose from the carb.. The engine smoothed out, but the engines rpms went up... then I put the hose back on and the idle went rough again!!
I checked the hose.. Nothing blocking it (no birds nests, rats, mice nothing)
I need to get this van inpected by the end of the month!!!!
Could that darn MAF be bad?? If so,, how do I test it,, Cash is a little tight right now..
Thanks..
The Maf could be bad still , BUT you said you disconnected a vacuum line from the carb ? (throttle body or is it a real carb ?)
If you did, then you leaned out the idle mixture & this made the idle less lumpy. It sounds like the mixture is too rich while at idle speed.
You need an OBD1 code puller for Fords (about $30 or so).
ATB Aeroman
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Green-96, XLT 2wd, 3L Vulcan, from Ontario, Canada
All original powertrain except alternator & starter motor. 302,500 kms & going strong !
You can run the EEC-IV self test and read its codes without a code reader; you just need a piece of wire and your check engine light. Find the EEC test port near the driver's side hood hinge. It's a trapezoid shaped connector with a single loose connector next to it. When you look at the connector, there will be 2 rows of pin positions, with 2 pins in the top row and 4 pins in the lower row.
With the key off, connect the wire between the upper right pin and the single loose connector. Then turn the key on to start the Key On Engine Off test. You will hear a series of clicks from the relays and solenoids being activated. It will flash the CEL very quickly at first; these are the codes that the scanners pick up. But then it will flash out the on-demand codes; those that were detected during this test. You count the flashes of the CEL to get the codes; they are a sequence of 1/2 second flashes separated by a short pause then some more flashes, each sequence representing a digit of the code. The early EEC-IV had 2 digit codes, and the later had 3 digit codes. There is a 4 second pause in between codes if there are more than one detected error. After all the codes are flashed, there will be a 6-9 second pause, then a single flash, then it will flash out the stored error codes.
The problem with these self-tests is that some times one problem will show up seemingly unrelated symptoms, and have you chasing down and replacing parts that may not be the problem. But it's a start.
That's funny because, last night I thought the same thing..
Is it possible that all the sudden the fuel pump would produce more pressure?
Is it possible for someone to check the pressure without any special gauges???
A gauge is not going to cost you very much. You need one that reads at least 50 PSI. You can connect into the fuel rail via the test port located on the rail. It is possible to use fuel line & hose screw clamps to connect the gauge. High fuel pressure will dump in more fuel than needed & although the injector pulse time will be reduced by the feedback loop, it will still likely be too rich at idle RPM's. Also the fuel pressure regulator could be faulty. Other causes could be leaky or sticky injectors, clogged or restricted intake plenum/throttle body or clogged air filter or restricted airbox intake. o2 sensor could be off, but you should get a code for that problem.
HTH Aeroman.
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Green-96, XLT 2wd, 3L Vulcan, from Ontario, Canada
All original powertrain except alternator & starter motor. 302,500 kms & going strong !
I had same problem this is how I figured out what it was
I got a 91 3.0 at a dealer for 300$. Drove it home. Bad smell (too much gas) and black smoke and a really bad idle.
Front right kick pannel remove it. There is a crash sensor which cuts power to fuel pump in a high G impact.
Start engine and unplug this wire at this device engine will smooth out run grean then quit.
Problem is bad fuel pressure regulator. I put in a new one ran perfect
You can also listen to it with a Radio Shack telephone amp.
This telephone amp has a suction cut induction coil and a speaker to hear what the coil hears.
The regulator cuts rail pressure way down at idle via a vaccume hose.
When they fail high pressure is present and the injectors spray way to much gas. That's way it stinks and runs like poo.
It is a mess to chanege the regulator so do it and take you time. Regs are 25$
Hold coil at the main power cluster. Unplug alternator plug on top. small wires. Start and drive van. You will hear the fuel pump chane speeds as you accellerate. If the speed doesn't chane the regul;ator is fried.
Unpluging the alt is nessarry cause you won't hear the pumt from to much alt noise.
Last edited by chihuahuas : 05-09-2008 at 09:32 PM.
Reason: add text
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