ok i just pulled the trans had it rebuilt and reinstaled it i bought a new neutral switch because the old one had a lot of play and would not let me start in park
the car is a '65 my brother and i think that the engin is a '69 (straight six) and we think that the trans is also a '69 c-4
we are trying to get the it running again but cant get the neutral switch aligned to start the car
does any one know how to adjust/tighten/align the shift linkage or bypass the neutral switch
P.S. i read this and did not understand what he was talking about however do know that if this had to come out to get the tranny out then i took it out so i would like some one to explain this please
"THe only wiring on a C-4 is on the side and it's to the neutral safety switch and not directly to the tranny itself. it's mounted to the side with 2 bolts and the selector lever mounts on that. Does the tranny have a modulator valve on the right rear corner? If it's a C-4, it should and also have a vac line going up to the intake vac port. THis controls shifting between gears. it's held on with a "fork" and a single bolt. These are usually marked with a colored band or nothing around the body of it. This tells which one you have in the parts book. If you remove it, there's a pin in there that will drop out if you're not careful and then won't shift at all. If it's hooked to carb vac, it won't work right also. "
and if the pin dropped out what problems should i look for and how do i fix it
Quick way to start is is to jumper the wires at the connector. In other words take the connector off slide a piece of wire in there to make contact and start the car. A neutral safety switch opens the ignition circuit to prevent starting the car in anything but Park or Neutral.
Sometimes the bracket is not set correctly, loosen the hardware and move it around until it is. One way to check it is with a ohms meter. Connect the ohms meter to the pigtail and move the neutral safety switch around until the meter shows a reading. Then once you figure out how it wants to be positioned move it accordingly. Tighten it down and run the transmission through all the gears to make sure it is set correctly. FYI do this with the wheel blocked and the engine off.
__________________
Mark J. Covill
"I'm not handicapped, I'm handicapable!"
'64 F-100 Shortbed 460/C-6
'03 F150 Shortbed 5.4L/4R70W/3.55 LS
Author of the disc brake article for 57-64 F-100's
I don't have one on my truck, well I think there is one in the 76 column but nothing is connected to it. It'll start regardless of where the selector is positioned.
Try holding the key over in the start position, and moving the selector slowly down from park to low. There are two positions that will engage (park & neutural) when working properly. You should find at least one start position and adjust the tranny arm from it, if it is connecting. The arm has a sliding slot to set it up.
John
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In the cool still quiet hours of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.
I don't have one on my truck, well I think there is one in the 76 column but nothing is connected to it. It'll start regardless of where the selector is positioned.
Try holding the key over in the start position, and moving the selector slowly down from park to low. There are two positions that will engage (park & neutural) when working properly. You should find at least one start position and adjust the tranny arm from it, if it is connecting. The arm has a sliding slot to set it up.
John
I would like to add that this is best performed in the comforts of an empty parking lot or the middle of the street...
--Mike
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Mike G
1965 F100 LWB .060 over 390/beefed C6
1968 Cougar XR7 (wife's toy)
2002 Chev Avalanche
1992 GMC K1500 4x4
2001 Infiniti I30
2004 Honda CRF250R
2003 XR50 w/big bore 80cc kit
1990 Chaparral 2000SL 20ft bow-rider 5.7L Merc
Yes...there are only three licensed drivers in the household
I don't have one on my truck, well I think there is one in the 76 column but nothing is connected to it. It'll start regardless of where the selector is positioned.
Try holding the key over in the start position, and moving the selector slowly down from park to low. There are two positions that will engage (park & neutural) when working properly. You should find at least one start position and adjust the tranny arm from it, if it is connecting. The arm has a sliding slot to set it up.
John
unfortunatly this is the method that we used before the tranny work and now it is even more difficult to start than before
as of yet we have not gotten it to start we have a good battery and we have gotten the neutral switch positioned right but all we are hearing is the thudding like the sound made when you press your lips together and blow and as if you were playing the trumpet
i think the problem is with the relay but i dont know enough to be sure
That makes more of a ploppity plop sound then a clickity click which a bad solinoid would make. Or I just have really big lips.
Have you tried to jumper the starter solinoid. Turn the Key to "On" and take a short piece of 12g wire and touch the "S" terminal to the Battery Cable side. If you still make a clickity click then the solinoid is bad. This will bypass the ignition switch and all the wiring from it.
__________________
Mark J. Covill
"I'm not handicapped, I'm handicapable!"
'64 F-100 Shortbed 460/C-6
'03 F150 Shortbed 5.4L/4R70W/3.55 LS
Author of the disc brake article for 57-64 F-100's
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