Cylinder Contribution Test Fault Codes
#1
Cylinder Contribution Test Fault Codes
I performed a cylinder contribution test on an 01 with 145,000 miles on it. It has regular oil changes and well maintained one owner. It is currently running pretty good, just an occasional slight quiver.
The fault codes that came up from the test are P0269 and P0284 that is #8 and #3 Injector Circuit Contribution Balance Fault.
What does this mean and how do I fix it?
The fault codes that came up from the test are P0269 and P0284 that is #8 and #3 Injector Circuit Contribution Balance Fault.
What does this mean and how do I fix it?
#2
It means the test detected a balance fault from those cylinders which could be from an injector, or compression. It is not uncommon for the 8 to fail. It depends on the amount of rotational loss whether it is of major concern. Of course, ideally we want all of them to pass but sometimes the dead end fuel system will cause the #8 to fail as it fires right after the #6 which may cause a fuel supply problem in the #8.
#3
I was considering putting hot shot secrets from Lubrication Specialties in there to see if it cleans it up anybody have any thoughts?
#4
Originally Posted by bkcowboss
I was considering putting hot shot secrets from Lubrication Specialties in there to see if it cleans it up anybody have any thoughts?
Start with a fresh oil change, and some additive in the fuel. then double check your IPC plug and make sure it is seated all the way. (if loose, fill connector with dielectric grease and reconnect) If no fuel mods have been done to the truck, and it still shows a big difference, then it may be time to explore removing the air from your fuel system.
#6
Originally Posted by greedy737
Isn't there a kit or mod you can get to fix the #8 problem
I'm near compulsive when it comes to wanting a perfectly running engine and I recently dropped a full set of 8 brand new Alliants in the engine and it took about 500 miles of driving before all the cylinders came up with a 0% contribution loss for all eight.
#3 and #8 on mine were both failing at around 5% loss the first time I tested it with about 200 miles on the engine since installing them.
Then I took a trip out of town and put another 300 miles on the truck with 99% of the miles being on the highway.
That was enough to finally clear all the rails of any leftover air in the HPOP and now it is straight zeros across the board.
#7
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
The most sure-fire way is to replace the injector.
I'm near compulsive when it comes to wanting a perfectly running engine and I recently dropped a full set of 8 brand new Alliants in the engine and it took about 500 miles of driving before all the cylinders came up with a 0% contribution loss for all eight.
#3 and #8 on mine were both failing at around 5% loss the first time I tested it with about 200 miles on the engine since installing them.
Then I took a trip out of town and put another 300 miles on the truck with 99% of the miles being on the highway.
That was enough to finally clear all the rails of any leftover air in the HPOP and now it is straight zeros across the board.
I'm near compulsive when it comes to wanting a perfectly running engine and I recently dropped a full set of 8 brand new Alliants in the engine and it took about 500 miles of driving before all the cylinders came up with a 0% contribution loss for all eight.
#3 and #8 on mine were both failing at around 5% loss the first time I tested it with about 200 miles on the engine since installing them.
Then I took a trip out of town and put another 300 miles on the truck with 99% of the miles being on the highway.
That was enough to finally clear all the rails of any leftover air in the HPOP and now it is straight zeros across the board.
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#8
Originally Posted by bdrummonds
You can, but HSS works better for the guys in the 6.0 forum than for us down here in the 7.3 forum. Now that I have said that, it is by no means a jab at a sponsor. It just simply works better for the higher revving 6.0 than the 7.3.
Start with a fresh oil change, and some additive in the fuel. then double check your IPC plug and make sure it is seated all the way. (if loose, fill connector with dielectric grease and reconnect) If no fuel mods have been done to the truck, and it still shows a big difference, then it may be time to explore removing the air from your fuel system.
Start with a fresh oil change, and some additive in the fuel. then double check your IPC plug and make sure it is seated all the way. (if loose, fill connector with dielectric grease and reconnect) If no fuel mods have been done to the truck, and it still shows a big difference, then it may be time to explore removing the air from your fuel system.
#10
bkcowboss, also another thing that would clear up most off the CC loss is to switch to single shot injectors.
I thought about going that route this time, but decided against it because they make more smoke and I didn't want to have any difficulty passing the emission test here in WA state. We have the same regs as CA now.
But the singles are more stable and deliver a better dose of fuel per injection event and the only side effect is that your EX would sound like your '97, a little more chunky.
I thought about going that route this time, but decided against it because they make more smoke and I didn't want to have any difficulty passing the emission test here in WA state. We have the same regs as CA now.
But the singles are more stable and deliver a better dose of fuel per injection event and the only side effect is that your EX would sound like your '97, a little more chunky.
#11
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#13
Jim, you currently have split shot injectors. that means that the fuel charge is delivered into the cylinder in two(or more) stages. A single shot injector delivers the fuel in 1 stage. Yo uneed different programming to run a single shot injector in our engines. DP tuner, Tony Wildman, Swamps, DI, Cale at BTS etc... can all do the programming, and it is considered an upgrade (in the amounts of fuel that can be delivered by singles).
#14
Originally Posted by bdrummonds
Jim, you currently have split shot injectors. that means that the fuel charge is delivered into the cylinder in two(or more) stages. A single shot injector delivers the fuel in 1 stage. Yo uneed different programming to run a single shot injector in our engines. DP tuner, Tony Wildman, Swamps, DI, Cale at BTS etc... can all do the programming, and it is considered an upgrade (in the amounts of fuel that can be delivered by singles).
the cash is real tight right now as I need to finish the house, but I don't want to make a bad choice in replacing parts. I'd rather go with the upgrade if the price is reasonable. I really need a tuner also. I had looked at the Bully dog chip but several people said to stay away from it. It sounds like everybody here is having good luck with the DP Tuner. What's the difference?
Again, thanks for all of your help teaching me all of this.
Jim
#15
Originally Posted by jff99
So whats the cost difference between the two? Is it worth while to "upgrade" or just replace the #8 injector by it self. My truck only has an MBRP 4" turbo back exhaust on it now. Not much else other than the lift and the 37's.
the cash is real tight right now as I need to finish the house, but I don't want to make a bad choice in replacing parts. I'd rather go with the upgrade if the price is reasonable. I really need a tuner also. I had looked at the Bully dog chip but several people said to stay away from it. It sounds like everybody here is having good luck with the DP Tuner. What's the difference?
Again, thanks for all of your help teaching me all of this.
Jim
the cash is real tight right now as I need to finish the house, but I don't want to make a bad choice in replacing parts. I'd rather go with the upgrade if the price is reasonable. I really need a tuner also. I had looked at the Bully dog chip but several people said to stay away from it. It sounds like everybody here is having good luck with the DP Tuner. What's the difference?
Again, thanks for all of your help teaching me all of this.
Jim
Since you are out in AZ give Dennis at ITP Diesel a call, look here for contact info http://www.itpdiesel.com/
Stay away from the Bully Dog, I ran one for 5 years, and now that I have switched to the DP tuner, i can tell you there is a world of difference. the DP is much more civilized in how it shifts and the truck runs better. Bully Dog is like a guy on steroids going to the gym and working out for a little while, yeah it looks impressive, but he has torn up the inside of his body, and aint gonna be the same ever again. the DP is like the Farmboy who has lifted haybales, and toted feed for years, he is strong to the core, and polite, and can work circles around the gymrat without breaking a sweat.
If money is tight, go ahead and replace the #8 injector, and order yourself a DP tuner, and you will be suprised at how well you truck will perform.
it is also advised that you do some fuel system upgrades to take advantage of single shots.