360 Major overheating problem

TheTinian · #1 (**permalink**) 02-11-2008, 07:27 PM

Ive had this problem goin on for a bit now. When i got the truck had a 180 thermostat in it with the massive radiotor (4-core i believe). It runs fine when im on the road, but when i get into the woods or sitting in traffic for a little bit my temp just keeps rising. I just put in a 160 thermostat hoping it would help, but just last night I was stuck in a mudhole for about 5-10 minuter and looked at my temp. gauge and was at 230. I was looking at a high flow water pump on jegs, which i was told would help. First, does anyone have any suggestions....and also the pump on Jegs said it would fit a 390-428. I called and them and the guy said that he thought they would fit a 360 also. The one on Summit racing said it would fit a 360-428. So if the one from Jegs will fit I would rather get that since it is cheaper.

ubereal2 · #2 (**permalink**) 02-11-2008, 07:32 PM

Couple things............... Do you have a fan shroud???? Maybe the radiator is clogged........ When the engine temp is high, do you still have good heat out the vents????? Is the coolant (anti freeze) reduced? I had a buddy that put in straight antifreeze and it boiled over. Too strong and it runs hot, but you don't have good heat.......

TheTinian · #3 (**permalink**) 02-11-2008, 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ubereal2

Couple things............... Do you have a fan shroud???? Maybe the radiator is clogged........ When the engine temp is high, do you still have good heat out the vents????? Is the coolant (anti freeze) reduced? I had a buddy that put in straight antifreeze and it boiled over. Too strong and it runs hot, but you don't have good heat.......

Yes, it has a fan shroud. The radiator looks clean and its a 50/50 water and coolant. Well probably a little more water than coolant. I also forgiot to say that the engine has a cam and headers. (Dont really know if it matters or not). And I didnt really check the vents for the heat coming out, but I will keep that in mind for next time. Thanks

ldan65 · #4 (**permalink**) 02-11-2008, 09:02 PM

Mine did the same thing. It was the ignition timing. I had set mine a 6 degrees BTDC per the manual. I was talking to a friend of mine who worked at a machine shop and he told me to back it off until "the engine felt comfortable". I ended up around 12 BTDC and this made the engine both run better and not over heat. It's still winter so I'll have to see how it does in the summer, but I think that was the problem. BTW, I am running a mild RV cam.

blue68f100 · #5 (**permalink**) 02-11-2008, 09:39 PM

Are the fins on the water pump there? I've seen some eroded away.

Is you fan clutch good?

dodmort · #6 (**permalink**) 02-11-2008, 09:42 PM

had this problem for a while with my Shelby.
took out the freeze plugs just for fun one day..
was full of crud and sand so water was not making it back the whole way..
flused it out and no more problem.
360 i took out of my f 250 and put in rb 390 was same way...
dont ask me why... guess 40 yrs of use.

Bear 45/70 · #7 (**permalink**) 02-11-2008, 10:09 PM

Radiator appearance on the outside means nothing if there are cores plugged inside it won't cool properly.

Redmanbob · #8 (**permalink**) 02-11-2008, 11:00 PM

Probably is the timing but if that doesnt seem to work.. Try removing the top radiator hose from the radiator. Then drop a water hose in the radiator fill hole and start her up. Let it warm up then rev it up to about 2200 and let the system flush (keep the water level up in the radiator with a sufficient flow from the hose) You'll probably have a nice rust stain on the driveway with any luck.

Bear 45/70 · #9 (**permalink**) 02-11-2008, 11:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redmanbob

Probably is the timing but if that doesnt seem to work.. Try removing the top radiator hose from the radiator. Then drop a water hose in the radiator fill hole and start her up. Let it warm up then rev it up to about 2200 and let the system flush (keep the water level up in the radiator with a sufficient flow from the hose) You'll probably have a nice rust stain on the driveway with any luck.

Rarely if ever will timing cause an idle or low speed overheat problem without having a starter bucking condition on start up. Maybe a bad clutch on the fan, if there is one. I still think radiator, size and outside appears means nothing when it comes to radiator efficiency.

jowilker · #10 (**permalink**) 02-12-2008, 06:26 AM

I have been dealing with FEs in trucks since 66, and know there are some things that you can count on.
When it's hot summer time, they will not idle over a few minutes without getting hot.
Once moving the temp will return to normal.

A fan shroud will help with the idle issue only, once moving ail flow takes over.

The coolant mix needs to be 50/50 with at least 2" of air space below the cap. The pump needs fins but stock will move enough water for anything outside of extreme use like truck pulling. You don't need a huge radiator, ail flow will do the job because of all the huge frontal opening.

Anything blocking the water flow either in the engine or radiator can cause the issue that you have.

When the coolant and air is flowing these trucks do not run hot.

You can have gaskets installed incorrectly, timing off, blocks or radiators gummed up, pumps with no fins, but when it's right, they usually don't get hot in the winter time.

John

TheTinian · #11 (**permalink**) 02-12-2008, 07:34 PM

Well the thing is that this motor is rebuilt. It has about 12-13k on it. So I dont know if many of those would be the culpret. I think I'm gonne check the timing and give the high flow water pump a shot and hopefully stop the problem.

jowilker · #12 (**permalink**) 02-12-2008, 08:08 PM

I don't claim to be the brightest bulb in the room by any means, I just have been dealing with these trucks for 40 years and kinda know what is is.

There is something there eating your gum, I hope you can find and correct it soon.

This issue of overheating has come up several times recently. I don't know if they post what they find if they do. Post up when you get straight.

John

ubereal2 · #13 (**permalink**) 02-12-2008, 09:28 PM

What about a clogged heater core. If you leave the radiator cap off, watch the flow of coolant. Check to see if both heater hose's to and from the core are hot. If not it could be a heaer core. Or just try to bypass the heater core. take one heater hose from the waterpump, and rout it right to the out/intake on the thermostat housing.................

Just another idea.
Bob

Hypoid · #14 (**permalink**) 02-12-2008, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheTinian

Well the thing is that this motor is rebuilt. It has about 12-13k on it. So I dont know if many of those would be the culpret.

The fairly fresh short block I brought home in December has a nice layer of sludge in the water jacket, especially at the back where the flow slows down.

Since you will have the water pump off anyway, remove the block drains, stick a garden hose in the water pump hole and give'r hell. A more thorough approach to this would be to pop out the rear-most expansion plugs and get a real look at what you are flushing out. The only drawback is that you would have the joy of setting new plugs...too much like work.

TheTinian · #15 (**permalink**) 05-02-2008, 05:27 PM

Ok, went ahead and changed the water pump to a "high flow". Didnt do anything, got a 160 deg. thermostat also, didnt do anything, re-timed it, Flushed the radiator and installed an electric fan. It has definatly slowed the time it heats up...about 10-15 min of idleing and it will start climbing again. Especially when I'm out playing in the wood with it, i had the fan kickin and it sill got up to about 220-230. So had to shut her off and wait. What a pain in the ass. I'm at a loss here. I would think its gotta be an airflow problem right? When I'm driving its fine, it only runs about 170-180. Only when I'm stopped....Maybe dual E-fans will help??