had this problem for a while with my Shelby.
took out the freeze plugs just for fun one day..
was full of crud and sand so water was not making it back the whole way..
flused it out and no more problem.
360 i took out of my f 250 and put in rb 390 was same way...
dont ask me why... guess 40 yrs of use.
Very good advice! Most of the blocks can still have core sand from the foundry inside them!! Besides 40 years of crap, rust and crud. I've never done core plugs in a truck but has to be a hellauva lot easier than a Stang.
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68 Mercury Cougar XR7. Sumthin FE under da hood.
Tin, what do you have for ignition timing ? And do you have the factory vacuum advance setup ? Too late of ignition timing will give you more heat than you want at idle. To make matters worse, many early 70s fords came with a special ported vacuum spark advance. Ported vacuum advance doesn't add anything at idle, manifold vacuum does. So if you have ported, and if the initial is a few degrees late anyway,,,,you'll get warm. Further, the special setup many early 70s fords came with actually disables the advance until the engine is starting to overheat.....if the thermswitch that does this does not function properly, the advance might never come on. Do your vacuum advance hoses go to a three hose thingee that threads into the water outlet ? Its worth a quick look. DinosaurFan, on work's old 'puter
Tin, what do you have for ignition timing ? And do you have the factory vacuum advance setup ? Too late of ignition timing will give you more heat than you want at idle. To make matters worse, many early 70s fords came with a special ported vacuum spark advance. Ported vacuum advance doesn't add anything at idle, manifold vacuum does. So if you have ported, and if the initial is a few degrees late anyway,,,,you'll get warm. Further, the special setup many early 70s fords came with actually disables the advance until the engine is starting to overheat.....if the thermswitch that does this does not function properly, the advance might never come on. Do your vacuum advance hoses go to a three hose thingee that threads into the water outlet ? Its worth a quick look. DinosaurFan, on work's old 'puter
All Fords came with ported vacuum advance, none had manifold except via a temperature switch at idle to raise engine idle speed at idle when the engine got worm in traffic.
Eric, I don't know what you are running your FE in, or how you are using it. A 65-76 pickup that the FE was installed in does not require a lower temp thermostat, an electric fan, a 4 row radiator, hi output pump or anything like it. I do believe a shroud will help only with idle. I was caught out last summer in rush hour traffic when we were in above 100º heat, and my temp gauge started climbing upward, by placing it in neutral and raising the rpms a little the temps came back down.
You have a water flow restriction or a timing related issue that is causing your engine to run hot. If your engine is set up to specs and the water is flowing, it wont run above normal with air flowing through the grill. IMHO
John
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In the cool still quiet hours of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.
Eric, I don't know what you are running your FE in, or how you are using it. A 65-76 pickup that the FE was installed in does not require a lower temp thermostat, an electric fan, a 4 row radiator, hi output pump or anything like it. I was caught out last summer in rush hour traffic when we were in above 100º heat...
...IMHO
John :-X06
"Hot wet something" beats the heck out of "extra hot dry nothing" for cooling the water in your radiator tho. :)
100F? :)
100F where you are -it is 100F- whether it's the shade or out in the sun.
That ain't how it is out here in the desert.
100F has 140+F air coming up off the black pavement.
Let alone when the news -lies- here and sez it's only 117F. ;)
I agree when everything is right then it "should" work but when do all these old suckers have "everything right"? ;)
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Funny but I've argued from the other side of similar situation.
My brother in law basically said battery cables needed to be huge. :)
I showed him the wimpy ~#8 cables on my '75 F150 that were still working very good and were the stinkin' originals. At the time they were at least 15 years old but being a "professional battery maintainer ;)" I'd kept them oily with motor oil and so were still electrically as perfect as the day they were installed at the factory.
"Hot wet something" beats the heck out of "extra hot dry nothing" for cooling the water in your radiator tho.
100F?
100F where you are -it is 100F- whether it's the shade or out in the sun.
That ain't how it is out here in the desert.
100F has 140+F air coming up off the black pavement.
Let alone when the news -lies- here and sez it's only 117F.
I agree when everything is right then it "should" work but when do all these old suckers have "everything right"?
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Funny but I've argued from the other side of similar situation.
My brother in law basically said battery cables needed to be huge.
I showed him the wimpy ~#8 cables on my '75 F150 that were still working very good and were the stinkin' originals. At the time they were at least 15 years old but being a "professional battery maintainer " I'd kept them oily with motor oil and so were still electrically as perfect as the day they were installed at the factory.
I special ordered my pickup.
Alvin in AZ
Since when did keeping the insulation from cracking have anything to do with wire amperage capacity?
Uhhh... who said anything about cracked insulation?
Alvin in AZ
Well have done electrics and electronics for a lot of years, since them mid 60s, oil in a wire don't help it handle amperage so what the hell are you talking about with this "I'd kept them oily with motor oil and so were still electrically as perfect as the day they were installed at the factory." Wires aren't like bearings, oil does not make them work better or last longer.
What the hell was the topic of this thread again ?? LOL... Either you maintain things or you let it go. And if the later, you find yourself complaining about it. Pretty ****ing simple really
If you're using ported vacuum for vacuum advance switching to manifold vacuum will elimate (or at the very least help) your overheating at idle problem, just be sure to adjust your idle speed and timing to fully benefit from the manifold vacuum, and as a side note, you're not running too lean in the idle circuit are you? this too will cause you to run hot during idle.
Very good advice! Most of the blocks can still have core sand from the foundry inside them!! Besides 40 years of crap, rust and crud. I've never done core plugs in a truck but has to be a hellauva lot easier than a Stang.
I cheated and had the engine out of the 67 gt500...really is not that hard to get out...
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24 t (not a sreet rod)
67 gt500 (3rd one)
68 bronco
69 f-250
72 bronco
97 f-350
98 svt cobra
01 hd road king
06 exped.
68 m715-fe,powered - 4 link
Rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy
I cheated and had the engine out of the 67 gt500...really is not that hard to get out...
LOL yea that'll make things easier. So what kinda shape is the Shelby in? I wish I never sold mine!! My car was extremely solid for a EC car. I believe there is some reference in the Registry about the bullit holes in the car. Long tainted history with me and that car. I wish I knew where it was and who owned it now. I'd have an earfull for him about the PO who bought it from me. Pretty well known in the Shelby world. A real A hole in my book. But that's a story not to be told here.
So what color and options does the car have??
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68 Mercury Cougar XR7. Sumthin FE under da hood.
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warm 360
Long tainted history with me and that car. I wish I knew where it was and who owned it now. I'd have an earfull for him about the PO who bought it from me. Pretty well known in the Shelby world. A real A hole in my book. But that's a story not to be told here. 
