Last autum i bougth f250 for a combined daily driver/ work truck, My previous truck was a half of everything, half motor, half drivetrain and half ton chevy but now i have this 76 F250 2wd Crew cab with so unpopular GM 5,3 LS in it and i have some annoying issues with it.

First of all, some previous who changed the engine did also take fuel tank from the donor truck and fitted it inside plywood boxthat takes 1/3rd of the bed so i need to find some better one.
I do have a original fuel tank cap on my cab rear corner and another one on side of the bed for inside-the-box tank but i really dont like the idea of a fuel behind the rear seat so i must find better solution. Also it would be nice to have a quiet in tank fuel pump that can withstand E85 ethanol blended fuel. I know there is not anything ready to buy but i like to have atleast something else that empty table and some sheet metal to begin with. There is not so much writen about those fuel injection tank modifications here but i would like to have fuel tank under the bed for it to have full usage and could benefit a bit better weight distribution for winter driving also.

I allready bought NVU gauge cluster for it because none of the OE ones did not work but i have also some issues with it, my oil pressure gauge and back lights in it not working properly, they promise to send me a replacement oil pressure gauge but they never send it and wont even answer my emails.

Because it a 2wd and not having any offroad abilities i would like to lower it to gain better loading height for the bed but its seems to be a bit more work acquired for that, same goes for finding a torsen or some other locker for the rear diff.

Today i will install a cheap chinese PWM pulse generator to maintain and control my 2 wire pwm controlled altenator.

 

Welcome. Ill be nice and skip the LS swap hate. Sounds like yours was done rather poorly though. Plywood box with a fuel tank in the bed is a new one for me. Love to see some pics of the truck and the swap. Especially curious what the wiring looks like. Anyway. If your truck has a filler neck for a rear mounted tank (behind the axle) you can use a later model f150 tank that has a sending unit designed for an in tank pump. I used a 1986 f150 tank for a truck equipped with a 5.0. The filler neck connection is a little different than yours, but not too hard to overcome. After 1986 ford changed the resistance range of the fuel level sender, but the tanks should fit all the way to 1996. If you have aftermarket gauges, they may be compatible with both senders. If your filler neck is on the bedside ahead of the back tire, that one is for a saddle tank that mounts outside the frame. I don't know anything about compatibility on that one. If you search the forums, there is plentiful information on fuel tanks and fuel injection pumps. Lots of recipes to follow.

 

so here it is, not the shiny one if i could say but better for my use.


and here is the noise maker, again, not a show room.


And here is one that i didnt yet mention, ill have to fit something electrical here after i have decent charging voltage.


And that wooden box with tank in it, filler caps can be seen also.

 

The filler neck in the bed is not original. I assume it is for whatever is in that wooden box. I thought a 76 would have a filler cap in the rear bedside?? Has it been covered? Looks like a bondo square in one of the pictures. One of the more seasoned members can correct me, as i've never owned a crew cab. As for the fan, if the alignment and size is close, might be able to put a factory shroud on it and leave the clutch fan. They're hard to beat for air volume and reliability.

 

Maybe the bed came off of a truck that didn't have dual tanks? In one picture it looks like a different shade of blue. Then again all of the trim matches up. I wouldn't have thought a crew cab would come with only the in cab tank but who knows

 

The different shade of blue is from the first ratlle can that i found from garage, it had unpainted piece of sheet weld to where orginal filler located, it was just so plain ugly thata i made a one minute fix for it.

And for the fan, electric is just more efficient and 10 times faster warmup for the cold engine, this is first truck in my fleet that i had to add cover in front of the radiator to get heat to engine( mostly interior) during the winter, without auxilary heater on coldest days there was none movement on the temp gauge.

 

And for the fuel tank, my fuel gauge supports almost any sender, now it shows readings what comes from the gm ecm wiring and orginal 06 avalache sending unit.

​​​​​​I dont have anything remaining from the orginal tanks, not even strap mounting points, that avalanche plastic one wont fit anywhere under the bed, recently i found one chevy squarebody side tank but it wont fit under cab rear floor and was a bit too rusty to cut and weld so i just was thinking something newer ones that i could have a slight possibility find, usually there is difficult to find anything older than norman ppl daily driven ones kept in stock around here.

making tank from empty will be my last choice, but i just hoped to find something just to save some time for everything else, i know ill have to pull that damn LS out and make some level rebuild for it also and it takes time also.
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there are a number of EFI tanks made for the dentisides that fit between the frame rails behind the rear axle. down side is you lose your spare location and looks like you would have to come up with idea for a filler neck since you don't have one.,

I'm sure you could retrofit something in your current aux tank, but if it's the factory one, that's only 19 gallons... there are a few that fit behind the rear axle that are in the 38 gallon range (including some suburban tanks to make your LS feel less lonely lol)

as far as lifting it, it's either a lot of work or it's expensive because you either need new beams with the right camber or you need to bend your current beams to return your camber to zero after you lift it. a lot of people also extend their radius arms to gain caster. not saying one doesn't exist, but i've never seen a kit to do that.

whatever rear locker/LS you're interested in should be easy to find with having a Dana 60 in the rear.

 

I found a sort of picture where can be seen those removed fill cap holes.

 

Im not sure if i have 61 instead of 60 rear.

​​​​​​I dont have that side tank, just the cap, and what comes for those 38 gal tanks, i havnt found any cheaper that rockauto sells but from there freight for tank is a a bit more that 1000 usd + i have to pay customs and 24% vat so it tastes a bit expensive.
suburban tank i might find here, just so damn difficult to find dimension for any of the tanks, outside maximun ones usually yes, but fill inlet postion, size and fuel pump location and space needet on top of the tank is a whole new story.


This is my cluster, just need to get that nvu to warranty my oil gauge.

 

the 61's should be out of vans generally i'd bet you more than likely have a 60... the rear frame rails should be 37" wide and as longs are you can fit a square-ish rank between that, you shouldn't have much of a problem with length and as far as height, just run the straps as low as you need while keeping the tank above the bottom of the axle?

didn't realize you weren't in the states. i can imagine shipping and vat will kill you, but most of the tanks i see are between 180-300 USD. i'd try hitting up the junk yards with a tape measure? as long as they aren't rusted through, you can get stuff that's like a paint to line the inside or better yet, find a plastic tank. the factory fill tubes and rubber are odd for the side tank that you're missing and the rear tank. the metal part can be hard to find and the rubber part has a piece of bent thicker sheet metal that holds it oblong to clear between the frame and bed. that one you have isn't factory... the side tank fill would be in line with where you have the old one covered up height wise. you could buy that one from LMC for 185 and just rub an external fuel pump on the frame. might be easier and cheaper than modifying one or getting an efi ready one.

those gauges look nice! sure it's the gauge that's bad? normally if you ground it out they will sweep all the way. if that's the case probably a very cheap sending unit.

 

I will be a hero if i can find a JY tank not rusted from the center joint or under the straps, and still it will be an arm and a leg.

​​​​​​I Have many g20 chevy van bodies where i can cut that fill cap and all around it but even those i dont have a tank to fit. External pump is cheaper, a bit more noisy and again i will not want to buy million dollar racepump that will handle the e85 fuel and cannot withtstand salt and grime under the truck,, but ill keep looking, in tank pumps are less prone to fail when fuel surrounds it.

My gauge will not sweep full when powered, also i tested it like they told from the nvu and they wrote that its broken an will be warrantied but i think when they noticed where i live they just try to ignore me.

Axle might be 60, i just not sure, big chance is that i have 61 with 3.07 gears that is listed as a code 22 in gear axle code chart, but ill look for it someday.

 

i did read your post a bit better, first of all, dont have spare tire place under the bed, there is only trailer hitch braces and a auxilary reversing light led bar attached to it.

And i dint say anything about lifting, lower i want to go, get better loading height for the bed, and a bit different look, maybe some better paint and different set of wheels and tires also some day. anyway for the front beam modification is the only way or?.

i might still have that 60 instead of 61, i must look to it better some day, today was snowing again and i could say that this truck with open rear is not the best one what comes in for driving on roads that are not plowed, manageable but some more traction wont hurt, but i like to have either Torsen on selectable locker, and those again are legalized robbery.

As a side note, There was a 2019 F250 2wd complete frame for sale nearby, it was having some good parts, a rear axle w locker, better brakes, softer leaf springs etc, but there is difference in wheel bolt pattern and it was diesel so fuel pump/tank is not suitable for me so i try to forget it.

Today i installed a pwm generator for the alternator voltage control. Took 5v from the ecm low reference to that generator, groundet it and feed one wire to alternators regulator. Sending 5 volts, 128 hz pulse and adjusting the duty cycle of it i can now maintain proper charging voltage, but do have problem there. When i switch off the ignition and start truck again my alternator wont charge at all. Before without pulse it made always 13 volts but now it wont begin any charge before i disconnect and reconnect that wire coming from the PWM box to alternator. There is several YT videos and writen guides for using this zk-pp1k PWM generator, but none of those say anything about this kind of problem. I made and triple chek all my connection and wiring but seems to be again my special kind of luck..