I firgured I would post It is good to see a crewcab only thread. I have loved these crewcabs for a long time. I have owned 6. 1 was a 1971 body style. My current crewcab is a 1977 Ford F-350 2wd dually longbed 460 V-8 NP435 4spd spicer 5831D 3 spd auxillary trans Dana 70 3.73 rear. I am currently working on the rear suspension. I am also going to build a flatbed for it and install a PTO driven winch on the rear to pull cars/trucks on to my trailer. I still have a long way to go before it sees the highway
1959 Ford C-600 391 4V 23 ft flat bed
1973 Dodge D300 future project
1977 Ford F-350 Crewcab 460 4spd man + 3spd aux trans
2000 Ford F-250 next project
Mastebevise if you look real carefully at the back doors and the seams it seems that they were created from an existing panel. Not to say "handmade" but it looks to be a remade persay part than a manufactured part as a front door.
1978 F-250 Crewcab 4x4, soon to have a 351w, zf5spd, np205, GV overdrive, 60/70 35in bfg muds. This will be my DD/tow rig.
The Frame is done now, (pics in gallery) I have everything except the front axle, so I'll have to run the 44 for now. I need to get the cab Rhino lined underneath then I'll start with the drivetrain swap.
Fender Trimming Expert, and Twin Stick Advocate
Proverbs 26:4 Do not answer a fool according to his folly , Or you will also be like him.
78 F-250 crewcab 4x4 resto project
79 F-250 4x4 wheelin' rig
87 Samurai cheap transport and backup wheeler
97 CBR 600
there is lead filler on all old crew cab rear doors and b pillars. the rear doors have infact been made from front stampings, trimmed, then welded to the new front section. lead was used over the showing joints. you can look inside the door and see the flange seam. lead was used at the top of the b pillars to complete the curve transition around the front/rear doors.
Remember: dont ever try to media blast these parts.
dont sand too much in these areas.
1960 F800 Super Duty Crew Cab dually pick-up, 1978 F600 superbronco, 2002 Excursion 7.3, two 1979 broncos.
I read a book years ago about the 1957-79 ford crewcabs, most built in canada, doors made with a lot of extra labor out of regular doors, special stampings for door posts, floor stampings etc. they pulled an existing cab out of production, cut it in two, carefully on top, with a torch on the bottom, and assembled on a jig, and welded in the door jamb, added the new roof panel, floor etc. the raw front door skins were cut, the inner panel was gutted, and a new front panel based on 67-72 front door hinges (as was the case with the 67-72s) older crews had exposed hinges often when outsoursed, and hidden hinges when done in-house. there was a picture of a raw cab that was an 8-door supercab intended for oilfield or railroad use. it said it was destined for an F-350, but I could see it was F-500/800 as it had different firewall holes.
I have no idea what the book's title was, I saw it at a swapmeet.
My crewcab build, need advice on parts to use/ways to do it.
I am so stoked to FINALLY have a '79 F250 SWB crew cab. The only bummer is that its a 2WD, I want to convert it to 4WD. I have a '92 F350 4WD (460/ZF)that I have as a parts rig, and a frame from a '79 F350 4x4.
I have basic tools, and can make just about anything work, but I have no significant fab skills, so the heavy duty stuff I will have to trick/con/bribe/blackmail friends into doing, or sub it out. Oh yea, and the budget pretty much doesn't exist, It consists pretty much of making what I have work, and trading/selling stuff I own for extra capital.
My original plan was to stretch the F350 frame and somehow rig the body to the frame. Repowering from the 351m to a 460 is MANDATORY, and is the minimum standard for the repower. Reading some threads on 4X conversions stated its the easiest to convert by simply hacking the frame off, and joining it to a 4WD frame of the same vintage I have the frame acquired (too bad no axles or steering). I can defray part, or all of the cost of these items by selling off the D60 from the F350.
There are no factory frames that have the correct wheelbase, that I have affordable access to. I am more or less stuck with making what I have work.
Pros of grafting the two frames
I don't have to make my body work on a frame it wasn't intended to fit.
No messing with extending brakes, fuel lines, or fooling with wiring
I have to make my modern(er) drivetrain from the '92 work
I have to either make the 92 front axle and steering work, or purchase 77-79 stuff.
Need to plumb in a high pressure fuel pump/fuel system
Pros of using the 92 frame and making it work.
I don't have to make the drivetrain work, just get a rear driveline made, extend wires, brakes, and fuel lines.
Getting the body/bed to mount up to a significantly wider frame (more fab time)
having two splices in my frame instead of one
Getting the midships fuel tank plumbed would be a nightmare.
The ZF is a hydro clutch setup. Would it be best to sacrifice the firewall behind the dash and graft it to the 79 so I can use the master cylinder, pedal assembly, and mounting point so i can use my F450 1-5/16 hydroboost setup?
A recent fork in the road has revealed a 94 F350 with a diesel/ZF in it. My friend has access to it, he can get it for about $1500. He is not sure if its an early or late '94. If its the early '94, I am really tempted to trade some stuff to him, and owe him for the rest to aquire the truck. This route would make me lean more twards making the later model running gear, as it was intended for the diesel. The early diesel was a turbocharged IDI 7.3. Parts for it are dirt cheap, and can make decent power for a cornbinder motor.
I am stuck on the fence on what route I should take. I like both ideas, but I don't like the fact that both require work.
I am open to ideas and suggestions.
Ok im sure 75F350 will abck me up on this: Hacking a frame in two and welding it back together is a bad idea. I know some guys here have done it but from a fabricators point of view its a bad idea. Even the most experienced welders will tend to tell you no. The only people with the guts to do this are the guys with a death wish. Im doing a 4wd conversion on my 79 Crew. First thing i want you to do is compare the front frame rails mainly where the bumper and rad support bolt with the rails on the '77 4wd you have listed on you signiture. Most likely they will be the same. This will be your best bet to find a highboy parts truck like the '77 and use the front crossmember and spring brackets. Then simply measure and drill for your spring shackles. This is if the 2 frames are identical. Im alomost sure they are. Thats how my crew is so i got highboy parts. Then all you would have to do is make a tranny/transfer crossmember such as in the 79 F-350 frame you have to accomidate the 460/ZF combo. What ivce gave you is a bare example of how im doing my conversion. If your frames match and you want to go that route then ill be more than willing to go farther in depth. Good Luck
Honestly, I'd sell it all and get another 4x4 truck that will work for you. If there is no buget then you'll have a VERY tough time finishing it right.
If you still want to go through with it I'd take a look at what you have and take the easiest route. If you have leaf springs in the front already I'd look at a solid axel swap and a divorced x-fer case.
Otherwise you could cut the suspension off and start over using your existing frame. Bad idea unless you are a VERY good welder and know about the angles you need on your front end. If that is wrong it'll be all over the road.
I'm not trying to scare you away from it but messing with the F suspension can cause you LOTS of headaches if you don't do it right the first time.
Don't try and re-invent the wheel. If you do give yourself twice the time you think you'll need and twice the $. Everytime I start a big project, that is where I end up.
Something else to think about Masterbeavis-- I lucked out and found a 'true' 4x4 crew when I got mine, but before I found it I got impatient and almost bought a supercab 4x4 F250 with the intention of cutting the frame down 5" (search the threads for this approach) mounting up a clean crew cab (read: cab/doors) to it (many a crew owner has had to do this- these 4x4 crews are a bit tough to get, so they just 'make' one).. no offense intended, but your 79 crew looks a little rough as a true starting point.. maybe part out/sell the '92 for $$, take your '79 cab/doors/bed/seats and misc and mount it up to a 'true' 73/79 truck (LOTSA those around!) that you either stretch or cut down the frame on.. Lots work, but nowhere near what you're in for if you graft that 92 into the mix
-- a thought on cutting/stretching a frame.. it's done every - single - day (by people that know what they're doing).. I don't want to start debate about this on your thread, but if it's a job that's over your head, find a good street rod shop nearby- they'll do it for a fair price-- when done right, it's not a problem at all. Good luck on the project!
Looking at my post again, I can see where some of the confusion might be coming from. I do not intend to do any of the welding on things that can or will kill me myself or others. I have acquaintances who are awesome welders that I plan on having them do the welding.
I did state that the budget is a non existant thing, however I do have ways of raising money when I need it, and I am capable of doin alot of things myself, and I do not plan on putting any bootie fab on the road
I do not plan on doing the welding on the frame, just the prep work. When the welder shows up, the frame will be ready to weld, so the time they will charge will be minimum, only for the online consultation on what needs to be done, and the time it took to weld.
My centurion (4 door Bronco, not the boat brand ) has a streched frame, and it (I guess by the grace of god) has not fallen apart, or killed anyone yet. I havnet heard of any Centurions failing. Fishplating, properly prepped metal, and good welds I feel will not fail.
The truck I have does look rough, that is mainly because of the primer that was shot on it many moons ago is fading, showing previous repair. If the primer was fresh, it would look better, I swear. It is not that rough of a truck, it is rust free. Aside from paint, a few fixable dents, a fender, bumpers, grille shell, and a door hinge that needs a new bushing, there is not much wrong with the cab, or the overall truck (aside from gross neglect in the maintenance department.) Fixing this body is easier than grafting it to another cab, IMO that would be stupid. I have connections at the junkyard, so getting the normal body parts are easy. Finding a 4x4 Supercab to modify is difficult up here. They get bought, front axle taken, and crushed almost immediatly, the local yards dont keep them long, parts dont sell off of them.
The 77 I have is a lowboy. The other frame I am getting is another lowboy frame. I don't have access to any highboy frames at the moment, tho I have given a couple complete trucks away in the past, later to see them get crushed.
I am waiting to hear back from one of my welding/fabricating buddies. If he says its easier to not hack my frame, and hang the axle from the existing, then that is the route I probably will take, (and cry over the money I spent on that frame half)
Its alot easier to hang a front suspension from the existing frame then to cut adn graft. When i mentioned about the welding i always ssume that the person is not a skilled welder. Frame sectioning can be done. I did a 53 Buick a few years back. A 4wd pushin big tires with alot of torque is a different story than a slammed leadsled. You said you ahve a welder/Fab guy in mind. Check for state certifications. I see alot ofguys that claim to be welders. But if this guy has a welding rig on a truck of works at a shop then hes prolly a good candidate. Also did you ever think about coils on the front? You already have coil buckets and all you need are some radius arms. Just a thought. Ive had my crew for over a year and im still in planning stages. I want to get this thing right on the first shot.
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