1973 crewcab....email sent w/ pics and suggestion of what to look for, linkage oof for door or vacuum off of actuator, parts are seen in pics from link that Infoford set up to change heater core/blower fan, it is really helpful!
1973 crewcab....email sent w/ pics and suggestion of what to look for, linkage oof for door or vacuum off of actuator, parts are seen in pics from link that Infoford set up to change heater core/blower fan, it is really helpful!
thanks for the help, i looked inside the dash and the ac/heater box and under the hood, and everything looks like is working like it is supposed to. that is why i am confused. i have no vacuum leaks and all the vacuum actuators are working good, and the air mixture door is controlled by a cable and seems to be working properly. if you or anyone else has any other ideas, i am all ears. thanks again.
yeah, when i move the temp control i can hear the air mixture door move if i have the truck turned off. and with the truck running i can hear and see the vacuum actuators on the other doors (for directing air to floor,panel,defrost) moving and working normally. the heater blows hot air great when the truck is sitting still but the air coming out of the vents (floor, panel, and defrost) gets cooler and in 2 or 3 minutes the air coming out is the same temperature as the outside air. i thought maybe the thermostat was opening early but i added a mechanical temp guage and once the truck warms up it stays at 185-190 degrees. i am usually a very good mechanic (mostly international diesels but also perty much any old gas engine) too but this is the first time i have been stumped like this.
If it isn't the moving fwd. of the truck that is allowing/forcing the cold air in maybe the heater core is losing it's warm water supply, ie; if you are getting hot water sitting idle and then when you get under way the flow is restricted, thus it cools down and maybe your mechanical gauge does not rect to the temp. drop tha fast. I would try 2 things, #1 physically get an idea of how warm your 2 heater hoses are sitting still, drive and when the cab temp. cools down, check to see if both are still the same temp.???? is the heater control valve open???, you could bypass that to rule out it being restricted internally.#2 determine if the blend door needs vacuum to be open, or closed and whichever it is, make it stay open, I would make sure it is open, disconnect the vacuum and secure the door open at the actuator, I once had a truck that pulled too much vacuum and it changed what was vacuum operated, I had too set up my vacuum ports correctly, I don't know if that makes any sense or not.
well i have the cab off and will be cleaning up the frame this week. whats the best frame paint to use? also whats the best 2wd suspension parts to use? thanks
As far as frame paint id use POR15. Its a rust preventer and ive used it. Works great. Only thing is that UV rays break it down. I just covered what i did with black rustoleum.
__________________
Just another zombie. my rig:
09 f-150 6" body lift, TTB front,stacked rear blocks,BFG A/T, Fuzzy Dice
Ok so apparently some small minded people dont understand that the truck in this signature is a combination of many sarcasims. Please quit being stupid and study up before you run your mouth about it.
75F250 CCSB, 2wd, WAS a 360(stroked to 390)/4 Speed. Gonna be swapping to a Dana 60 4x4 up front, and adding a 6.0l Powerstroke/Auto in the future. Gonna be pulling the body off, and starting frame up. Lil rust here and there, but its in decent shape. I've got two 78 parts trucks for some lil body panels and stuff
Wow, I am a blonde! I have been on here for years and just noticed this thread a couple weeks ago, been trying to read through everything. LOL
Just thought I would chime in...
I have 2 and a half crew cabs!
A 73 F-350 Crew Cab Camper Special 390/NP435 - converted over to 4x4 - just about done with conversion
A 77 F-250 Crew Cab 4x4 Short bed 351/NP435/205
A cab and rear doors from a 75 F-350 (thats the half!) Using this cab for my 73 as it is rusty. I have quite a few pics, need to update my gallery, will do that one of these days.
Hopefully I can get in on the fun a little more! Looks like we got some sweet CC's in here!
__________________
1995 F-150 Super Cab 4x4
1973 F-350 Crew Cab 4x4 - aka Slimer
1975 F-250 Super Cab 2x4
1977 F-250 Crew Cab 4x4
1978 F-150 Regular Cab 4x4
I have a few trucks...Some not listed..
Burg460, does your crew cab camper special have the cast aluminum emblems/badges that say "crew cab special" on them? there was a guy who psoted a pic of one of these a while back and it was the only one i have ever seen for these year models. that persons badges had "crew cab" above "special".
also lostinfords, thank you i figureed out what it was with my heater. believe it or not there was just a lot of grime built up between the water tubes/fins on the heater core. i disconnected it and soaked it in engine cleaner and then washed it real good and it works fone now. the dirt was mostly on the backside where i couldnt see it from inside the cab looking up into the heater box.
As far as speakers are concerned, the only thing I would put in or around the roof area, are tweeters, with a potentiometer (volume knob) in case they are too bright. I like component speakers, separate woofer, midgrange/tweeter. A 50W RMS 4 channel amp driving them, good sound insolation, and a nice sub will make a pretty dang good sounding stereo system.
You can shoe horn speakers in the rear cab corner like I did. Yea, its a standard cab, but the cab corners are the same, and you dont have to cut your doors for sound. Midranges you can put in the center B pillar? Careful planning, and cutting, no mistakes! Once you make a cut, you are stuck with it.
__________________ Tony
Quando omni flunkus moritati - when all else fails, play dead.
You can shoe horn speakers in the rear cab corner like I did. Yea, its a standard cab, but the cab corners are the same, and you dont have to cut your doors for sound. Midranges you can put in the center B pillar? Careful planning, and cutting, no mistakes! Once you make a cut, you are stuck with it.
No need ot cut the doors - they already have holes in the for speakers
Also - you'd rather cut your cab than doors? Doors are easier to replace
And last - you aren't stuck with a cut in metal. That is the beauty of metal - it's much easier to fix than wood. Just a little welding, sanding and painting and you're back at square 1.
__________________ Have you flown a ford lately? 1938 Ford Pickup = hot rod
1970 Ford F250 long bed & 1974 Ford F100 Supercab - 2wds
1974 Ford F250 4x4 Crew cabthread in "motor swap" forum 1989 Ford Ranger= Never gonna be done...
1972 Alfa Romeo GTV & 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4wd = DD
Burg460, does your crew cab camper special have the cast aluminum emblems/badges that say "crew cab special" on them? there was a guy who psoted a pic of one of these a while back and it was the only one i have ever seen for these year models. that persons badges had "crew cab" above "special".
Honestly I don't remember. I pulled the badges off the truck shortly after I got it and that was almost 10 years ago. I know they are in a box somewhere. I pulled them off as they were falling off and I knew they would be hard to find.
__________________
1995 F-150 Super Cab 4x4
1973 F-350 Crew Cab 4x4 - aka Slimer
1975 F-250 Super Cab 2x4
1977 F-250 Crew Cab 4x4
1978 F-150 Regular Cab 4x4
I have a few trucks...Some not listed..
Will my heater core make noise if it is clogged or has its flow restricted. I am trying to find a noise that I thought was the fan but I am quite sure not that it is not.
Also I need a window requlator for the drivers side. Should I just buy new or does some one have a good one around?
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.
1977 f250 4x4 460 c6
Looks like we got some sweet CC's in here!
