Not from the factory. All crewcab 4x4's are F250 shorts beds. The F-350's only came in long beds and 2wd only. After market companies did do 4x4 conversions but none came from the factory.
Not from the factory. All crewcab 4x4's are F250 shorts beds. The F-350's only came in long beds and 2wd only. After market companies did do 4x4 conversions but none came from the factory.
thanx! got to love the crew cabs (message needed to be 10 letters long)
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1970 F-350 Crew Cab long bed
06 Focus ZX3 5 Speed (DD)
SoCal FTE Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by bpounds
My impression of the whole battue process, you really want to be the guy with the gun, not the half naked guy running throught the bushes
I just picked up a retired fire dept pickup. Think i'll put it on ebay. Hope to get between 4500 and 5500. Is there a market for these. How do I post pictures here? email brandx@wtechlink.us
Here in the California Bay Area, no market. Prineville, Oregon: different story. What it will fetch on Ebay has a lot to do with logistics. I.E. if the truck is worth $4500 someone on the other side of the country will not bid that high because they will have to factor the cost of shipping. Either flying out and driving it home or having it transported. The only way to find out for sure is to list it.
Your right about listing it. I go to pick it up on thursday. Spend some time getting to know what I have so I can do repairs and detail it out. I'm guessing list it in two to three weeks`.
I just picked up a 1978 crew 4x4 with the 351m and d44frt
Is there a quick way to tell the gears in the frnt and rear end?
Also what is the best back spacing and rim size to run on the crews?
I have 6" sd spring waiting to install, so looing at some 36" tires but cant think of the best rim size (was thinking 16.5 x 12, not sure on backspaceing)
Just my opinion and experiance. 16.5 rims have no inner bead retainer, so if you air them down to go off road they will pop off the bead easier, also, tires are more expensive and harder to find a good selection of. The upside is, you can find lots of rims for cheap, for these very reasons. But the tires are more expensive.
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1976 crew cab, 4x4, family tow monster. 97 Dodge Cummins engine doner.
Just to add to what bendog was saying, I'd avoid 16.5's. They are on their way to extinction. As the last 16.5 molds wear out, manufacturers aren't going to invest money into retooling them. Go 16", 17", 18", or even 20". You're rim width will depend on what cross-section tire you're going to run. I.E. 12.50-13.50 would spec on 10" wide wheel as a general rule of thumb.
I'll add another vote for AVOIDING 16.5" rims.
As far as the rim width - I run 315/75r16 tires on a 16x7" rim and 35x12.50r15 on 15x7" rims. You don't need super wide wheels to run these tires. The narrower wheels look WAY better IMO, and they protect the rim a bit more by ballooning out a bit in the sidewall. This is nice when driving where rocks and branches, etc. can nail the wheels
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Have you flown a ford lately?
1938 Ford Pickup = hot rod
1989 Ford Ranger = never gonna be done...
1974 Ford F250 4x4 Crew cab Build thread in "motor swap" forum
1972 Alfa Romeo GTV
1991 Dodge 250 cummins - motor donor
1999 Toyota Tacoma 4wd = DD/weekend toy
so 16" rims will clear everything, always thought you couldnt clear the brakes with 16" that why they made the 16.5 stock.
thankss
I have "heard" of people having rubbing issues on the wheels/calipers with 16" rims, but I have never seen it myself/ The only thing I can think to cause this would be an overly thick cast aftermarket wheel. My 16" ford wheels are fine.
__________________
Have you flown a ford lately?
1938 Ford Pickup = hot rod
1989 Ford Ranger = never gonna be done...
1974 Ford F250 4x4 Crew cab Build thread in "motor swap" forum
1972 Alfa Romeo GTV
1991 Dodge 250 cummins - motor donor
1999 Toyota Tacoma 4wd = DD/weekend toy