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Originally Posted by DeckedoutF150
i have never delt with nitrous before, i was thinking supercharger but they are so expensive. i have been reading all i can and asking questions to see what i might need. i have looked all overt the zex site and they say nothing about needing everything you pointed out and i have talked to several oether people that say i just need a fuel shut off and i am going to take the truck to diablosport to write a custom tune for it. the only bennifit i see to that thing you pointed out is the gauge. i can watch this on my predator tuner.
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You can not watch air fuel on your predator! People will say a lot of things, and you will hear what you want to. I am telling you how to safely run nitrous. I have seen guys, and hooked up kits for people, that spent $250 and just wanted nitrous. I did however tell them that this way is not the safest and IMO proper way to do it. You do whatever you want, I am telling you how to run nitrous as safe as possible. You either listen or you don't, no hair off my butt either way.
A fuel pressure safety switch will save you if you lose fuel pressure, yes, but what happens when you drop an injector and you go lean????? No help from the fuel pressure safety switch there....why do they recommend them and everyone do it?????????? Becuase they are cheap!
You will NOT be watching your Predator all the time, and there is no way you will be able to react as fast as a a/f safety device or window switch.
With A/F safety incorporated into your system it will save you should anything fail. You lose fuel pressure, go lean, it disables nitrous! You drop injector, go lean, it disables nitrous.
A window switch will allow you not to spray at to low of RPMs if desired but more importantly will disable the nitrous before you hit redline, you DO NOT want to hit the rev limiter while spraying!
When I ran mine, on my modded 2003 Cobra, I ran the following:
A/F guage tied into my window switch (I did not need the $20 fuel pressure safety switch because of this)
I ran a regulated bottle heater (it regulated it self so I didn't over heat it)
A window switch (to enable and disable nitrous depending on inputs)
What inputs needed to be met for the car to spray?
-A/F had to be richer than 11.8:1 (boosted and sprayed)
-TPS must be at WOT
-above 3000 rpms
-below 6000 rpms
-1st gear locked out (traction was a huge issue, I didn't need spray in 1st)
All of these things were in series if you will, if anyone was not met, the entire system was disables. I also sprayed pre TB so if the solenoid ever stuck open, I would not fill my intake with nitrous and blow it to shreds when trying to start it.
I also ran a nitrous filter (to keep particulates from getting stuck in the solenoid) and a purge (to get the nitrous to the main solenoid for track days).
I spent over $900 on all of this and I went through dynotunenitrous which was (and still may be) the most in-expensive place to buy these things.
What would I do different?
I would run the dynojet wideband I am running now as it would have saved my $300 total (I would not have needed to buy a wideband and a window switch seperately).
Again, you do what you want. Thing is, you are not playing with a harmless power adder (if there is such a thing). You can do it cheap and risk it, but be ready to pay the ultimate price should a component fail, get a bad batch of gas, or your tune is off.
Good luck!