O ok. so the power window harness is seperate from the rest of the cab harness then?

 

Correct. If you pull the dashpad you'll see it running the length of the firewall under the windsheild. Not to difficult to pull and install.

 

SWEET. I always wanted power windows in one of these early trucks. Then the power side of the harness plugs in out by the master cyl?

 

I think it's supposed to plug in behind the driver side kick panel.

 

I got my power from that terminal between the M/C and L/S fender, I wanted to be able to use my windows without having to turn the key on.
I found my problem with that door lock, I had a broken wire inside the boot-joint in the L/S door. So now it's all fixed and put back together and everything works great. Mission accomplished! (Finally)
Thanks to everyone for all the help! Next project is going to be the tie rods...

 

I never really looked at the wiring for the power windows and locks.

It sounds like I'm going to have to pull a harness for my rat rod. It would be nice to have them in the truck and the 92-96 doors I just put on already have the power window regulators and door lock solenoids.

I wonder how much different the wiring is (if any) in the later model doors.

 

Getting ready for the next stage. Now the power accessories are all hooked up and working, it's a short jump to keyless entry. I just received a kit I got off of evil-bay so it's just a matter of installing it.

 

Got that keyless entry wired in on Sunday. Pretty easy job and works well.

 

Sorry to bump an old thread but this is exactly my situation and I have a couple of questions.

I found a guy parting out an 88 Bronco on craigslist. I'm buying both doors from him (ironically the interior is the same color as what I have and even the two-tone exterior matches what I have.... SCORE!). The Bronco has power windows and locks and my 86 is currently manual for both. After reading this thread it seems like it should be a pretty easy job but i want to make sure I grab all the wiring, harnesses, hardware, etc. I need to do the job while I'm there.

From what I gather I need to obviously grab the doors and electric stuff running through the rubber snake inbetween the door and the door kick panel. I assume there's a simple harness behind the kick panel I need to unplug and it'll come right out after the bolts are removed?

Also, there's a single wire that runs under the dash to the passenger side to activate the passenger side window from the driver side? Is that correct? That would lead me to believe I have to remove at least 2 harness per side. One for the main electric (door speaker, and one for the windows).

Question, what about the door locks? Do they run off the same wire under the dash that goes to the windows or is there some other way the door wiring works?

Just looking to put together a grocery list of the things to take from this bronco tomorrow so I have can convert the manual to power.

Thanks guys!

 

I believe the window/lock/mirror harness connects into the back of the fuse
panel (which contains circuit breakers for the windows, not fuses) and not into
the main harness although I've never done it, just read about it here. Come to
think of it, I can't think of any place where such a harness could hook to the
main harness, it's just an add-on harness that gets added to the existing
electrical system. I'd just grab all the wires that are in both doors and that
connect the two under the dash.

 

I grabbed the doors and the long harness that connects the 2 doors. There's what appears to be another harness or 2 which are much smaller also taped to the line but are different color wires then the ones that make up the 8 in the window/lock harness. When I popped off the kick panel on my truck I looked to see how to get power to the harness. Supposedly it's "plug and play" but I'm having difficulty finding the power plug. Any tips?

ctubutis, are you saying i need to plug something into behind the fuse panel? everything plugs in or is there some splicing or further dicing i need to do? anyone know what's next to get it all plugged in for the power?

 

As I already said, I have never done it, only read about it here the past few years.

My 1981 wiring diagram says:

Light blue/black dots goes to f-17 on the fuse panel, this is for the windows.
Black/white stripe goes to f-5 on the fuse panel, this is for the locks.

Follow those two wires on the donor vehicle, take them + everything else needed to
transplant everything to your truck. My bet is they lead to the back of the fuse panel; if
you have the right tools with you, you should be able to remove everything you need but
you can always get the entire fuse block if you wish.

I'm assuming you've looked at the back of your fuse block as well as the one on the
donor vehicle; if not, you need to do that. As has been stated, there is likely no plug or
harness in your truck sitting willing and able to accept this wiring, this wiring was added
only when power windows and/or locks were installed in the truck.

The harness connecting the two doors prolly has a lot of pink + some color wires.

You might search on power windows in this forum only using the Advanced Search
feature to read what others have discussed in the past.

EDIT: I'm sorry if I was confusing earlier, I guess I should have been more clear. I was
referring to ALL of the wires connecting the two doors and making the power accessories
work; take the harness connecting the two doors as well as any other wires that
eventually lead to the fuse panel and anything needed to connect it all together and make
it work.

 

Here's a pic of my fuse box.







The power windows do have a jack on one side (behind this no wire is connected, only a wire acceptor) and the other side is open. There's a big hole (right above the wire acceptor) for what I'm guessing would be some type of plug coming from the window harness I snagged. I would assume this means if I trace the wire from the window harness coming to the window fuse in the box that a plug should be able to drop in the fuse box and then I have power windows?


However, the door locks look to be more tricky. I would assume running along the same harness to the fusebox for the windows is a wire for the door locks so fishing a wire down to the bottom of the fuse panel is what is needed to get the locks setup. However, there's not metal jack in the fuse box for the power locks (just an empty slot of plastic) so if I get a wire in there I do not know how to hook it up. It looks like other jacks that are connected and have fuses in them have a thin piece of metal running from the fuse jack down along a line of metal that connects to a hot line in the fuse box? I'm not sure. All this stuff is new to me. If that's the case how do I get a power lock fuse setup so it's hot in the fuse box?

 

Boy, I wish I had my scanner hooked up and ready to go....

Here's an edited version of your pic:


If the fuse block is from a truck:

The windows will use a 20A circuit breaker (green line in graphic).
The locks use a 30A circuit breaker (other green line in graphic).

The circuit breakers are metal, rectangular cans, kinda like miniature SPAM (the lunch
meat) containers.

If the donor fuse block is from a Bronco:

The above-mentioned circuit breaker used by the windows is used for "POWER
TAILGATE AND POWER DOOR LOCKS I/P SWITCH (C.B.)"

The one used by the locks is used for "POWER TAILGATE KEY OPERATED (C.B.)
AND POWER DOOR LOCKS"

I believe C.B. is 'circuit breaker' but not sure what I/P is - instrument panel? Could be.

Anyhow, on the back of the panel, the Bronco panel gets another wire easily added very
much like the white/purple stripe wire (EDIT: another wire FOR THE TAILGATE
WINDOW, nothing is specifically different about the circuit used by the locks).

That's about the best I can do right now so I don't know how to answer the rest of your
questions, I guess I would say, "look at it (the donor) and the answers should present
themselves to you."

It'd be cool if you could take pix of what you discover and how you do it, we'll add this
thread to the stickie at the top of this form.

 

Eureka, I'm in business. Thanks ctubutis!



OK, here's what happened. The Bronco harness I pulled would have worked but being the idiot that I am I cut off the power leads portion of the harness that connects to the fuse box. I had been under the impression that there was existing wiring to be able to do this but there isn't. To anyone else who might attempt this in the future.... THERE IS NO FACTORY WIRING CURRENTLY IN THE TRUCK THAT WILL BE USED TO HOOKUP P/W OR P/L. You need to grab the wiring to do this.

Here's the how-to:
-Get doors with power windows and locks. The drivers side has a rubber hose protector that houses the wiring for the doors on it with harness jacks on it. The drivers side is gray, the passenger side is green. There are 8 wires that make up this plug and it plugs into a wiring harness that goes under the dash that'll well get to in a moment.
-There's also a smaller harness coming out of the door that has 2 wires on it. It's for the door speaker.
-Inside the cab-- behind the kick panels on both sides you'll see these gray and green plugs (depending on which side you're looking). This wiring harness runs up the kick panel and under the dash. It runs along the firewall and is held to the firewall with about 5 or so phillips screws.
-Now that you understand how the doors connect, it's important to understand how they are powered. There's another 2 prong mini harness that comes out of the main wiring harness. This also has another harness that plugs into it. It basically splits the wiring so each wire can be plugged into a different section of the fuse panel. Each has it's own pigtail and plugs into a different section of the fuse panel. The pigtail is shaped in a way so that it's somewhat idiot proof and they will only fit into the fuse panel where they were designed to go.
-Take a look at the picture above. The green circles indicate where you will need to put the breakers in for the locks and windows (thing to note, the window uses a 20amp breaker and the locks a 30amp according to the 86 user manual that came with my truck. However, I noticed from the donor vehicle I got the harness out of (it was an 87) that they began using 30 amps for both). I plugged in a 20amp and it ran the window up and down fine so I guess use that one. If it dies you could always go bigger.
-The windows pigtail is easy to spot on the back and makes up the "other half" of the fuse panel jack. So the bottom portion is already wired and hot and the pigtail you're plugging in from the window side is a direct input and the breaker plugs right into it.
-The door lock pigtail is a little different. On my truck (and I'd suspect all that don't have p/w or p/l from the factory) the p/l pigtail is much more difficult to find where it goes. The jacks for the fuse are already in there fusebox. This pigtail does NOT make up the "other half" of the circuit. This is because the pigtail actually clips down on a portion of the panel right next to the jack (again on the back of the panel, just like the p/w). It's a little difficult to spot but once you get it in there you'll know.

After that you should be good to go. Just fish your wires in so they're all nice and tucked away, pat yourself on the back, and sit back and have a few sips from your tasty brew of your choice and congratulate yourself on a job well done.

Cheers.