[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 25-Feb-01 AT 00:31 AM (EST)[/font][p]I bought a 460 ($350) It's a 73' w/ 70k on it. It's gonna be my first rebuild. I want to put it in a 55'F-100, I realize this won't be easy. I plan on changing the clip, from what I don't know. Anyway I want it to be an every day driver (during the summer)wisconsin winters can be fun, but not in a lowered streetrod w/ Micky-T 50's. How far can I build this up without it overheating at a red light? I looked into stroker kits, I liked the 520ci deal. Can I really get 600-700 ponies out of 92 octane? Whats makes a rod street-illegal? I've got a C6 trany, is this what i want to use? So many questions... what can i say its my fist time.

Antonio

96'Chevy Blazer 4.3ltr 3"suspension lift 30x9.5
95'Chevy Beretta
55'Ford F100
79'Ford F150

 

Hey, it's all good...
That 460 should fit between the framerails of your truck. What kind of clip you looking to get? I say try to find either a Lincoln or a Tbird front end.. during the mid-late 70s, I think, they came w/385-series (429/460) blocks..
Im working on My first rebuild of a 460, too.. heheheheh Fun..
Im backing mine w/a C6--YES, this is the trans. you want to use. Practically bomb proof..just make sure that if you build your engine up to this heavenly 6-700hp (and no doubts, it CAN be done..) you have your trans gone through..professionally, and with the intention of mating it to a high-hp bigblock.
As far as heat goes, just make sure you have a good water pump, the right thermostat, and one fatty radiator..everything should stay nice and cool. Most of all, Have fun!
J/.c

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 25-Feb-01 AT 12:43 PM (EST)[/font][p]Thanks for the info.:-) Should I equip the engine w/ a superchargerer? Whats Invoved? and how much power can I expect. I tried unsuccesfuly to look for this info. I'm also thinking about a NOS system as a later add on. A NOS sytem should add a lot of power to a 460/520 for a semi low cost compared to a the stroker kit. Can I do this? What size carb should I go With, 1150cfm? I plan on getting a high rise manifold. How many gph do I want coming out of the fuel pump? And do I need to do anything to the oiling system to handle these radical changes.

Only half a million questions to go.

Antonio

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 25-Feb-01 AT 02:18 PM (EST)[/font][p]Would It not be wise to make the 460 into a 514. Being that a a 520 has to be bored 30 over, which i believe to be the limit. But when the 514 goes a person could then turn it into a 520 by boring it 30 over and rebuilding accordingly. Increasing the life of the block. Or not.

Antonio

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 25-Feb-01 AT 10:02 PM (EST)[/font][p]My dad and I are currently building a '56 pickup with a 460, email me offline if you have questions after this post. We did a ton of research and I can say with confidence that the best subframe (other than the $2000 mustang II setups) is one out of a Chrysler Cordoba. Gibbons sells a crossmember that BOLTS IN to the stock frame using the old brake line holes as locators. From there you drill a few simple holes and bolt the crossmember in using the frontend pieces, easy as hell. The main thing is there's no welding required, the crossmember is about $300 and frontends out of those cars (a-arms, steering, brakes) cost us $150. Now, the motor is also pretty straightforward. If you don't want to just buy ford's 514ci crate motor, use it as an exact model. 618hp and 630lb-ft of torque on 92octane, that enough for you? I know of a guy running one in a '63 Galaxie and it turns 10.70's, a '55 pickup is roughly 500lbs lighter than that car so you do the math!!

 

I am too working on build up of a 460. I plan to change the heads. Hopefully to CJ heads. But I am not sure what cam and pistons to use? can anyone help me on this. Also what is the MAX redline for a built 460 usually?


--------------------
1985 "Cowboy Cadillac" Ford F-250 4x4, Granny 4-speed, 4:10 Gears, 460 with Holley 750cfm 4-barrel Carb, Custom Painted Block (Ford Dark Blue), Rebuilt Transfer Case, BFG Trac-Edges, Tachometer, Kenwood CD Player and Pioneer Speakers, 27" cherry bombs dualed out each side with 2 1/2 inch pipe, NAPA Premium Clutch, NAPA Premium timing Chain, Gooseneck Ball, Hitch Reciever, Whistler 400 radar detector!

"When in Doubt GAS it"

 

Thanks a bunch. I'll be needing all the help I can get. I too would like to know how many rpms you can push a 460 to achieve. What is your take on the nitrous? yes.. no.. brand?

Antonio

 

I am in the process of rebuilding a 460 with a offset crank and @#&vy 6.8 inch rods. the bore will be 30 over and pistons are 9.5 from coast high. the cam i chose is an isky 270/270 and 542/542. If you have the money and access go with the alum cj or cast for a little less. if money is tight like mine buy a die grinder and a couple of carbides, stones, and flap wheels and get creative with the stock castings. I did this on my fairly stock 460 and it really helped. First i removed the Egr bumps in the exhaust them i enlarged them slightly, and made them smooth as a baby's A$%. also matched the ports with the intake and header gaskets. on the intake side, i just made sure that the short side radius of the runner was a smooth curve to the port and that there were no casting marks to inhibit flow. Do not make the intake ports smooth because you will loose low end torque. finally take a wire wheel on your die grinder or any smoothing bit and get all the carbin and rough casting marks out of the combustion chambers. do this after the heads have been cleaned and assembled so you dont mess up your seats. I may seam like a drastic step, head porting, put take your time and do a nice job. by the time you finish a couple of ports you will get the hang of it. I have done a dozen or so heads and feel for the time and effort it is a cost effective upgrade.

 

well, for the overheating, your best bet would be to use a good low tem thermostat, bigger radiator, and a good fan clutch(i hear hayden makes good ones, thats what i have on my truck). and for boring it if you have to, dan nowak of nowak perofrmance says that 460s can be bored out to .080 over, though i dont think that would be good for the street, try to stay down about .030 if you can. ford svo has a big fat nasty roller cam out now(big bucks though) that has 254/258 degrees duration at .050. they also have a stroker crank that makes 514 ci. aluminum cj heads would be good for tons of horsepower and you could get away with a little higher compression and still use 92 octane. good luck and hope this helps. i wish i had a 55 f100 for my 460, too.....
mike

 

Most of the time when over bore reaches .080" the cylinder walls must be sonic tested. If they test thick enough then it's ok to run. I've heard of guy's around here having a 460 bored to .100", and then they stroked it to boot. this guy went through a ton of money trying to get a block that would sonic good enough to run. He was using it for mud drags and I definitly wouldn't run that on the street.

 

 

Chilly, I have also purchased the Gibbons kit you are refering to for my 50 F-1. I have a complete Cordoba for a donor car. I am also going to be installing a 460/C6. I was wondering how you liked the front end set up? How does it handle and drive with the weight of the 460? Also did you use headers or stock exhaust manifolds? If headers what did you get them from and do they clear everything? Sorry for all of the questions,but I like to have all of my ducks in a row before I start tearing into something.

If you listen closely on a quiet night..you can hear a Chevy russsst!

49 F-1 (soon to be 460 powered streetrod)
50 F-1 (parts truck)
83 F-150 XLS Stepside
94 XLT Explorer
95 Mustang

 

I have been told that on all pre '74 385 series blocks you can safely go .80 without overheating. These blocks have a lotta meat. Goal on rebuilding is 1 HP per CI.
Max RPM on a BBF mildly built is 5500-6000. MSD-6AL time!
Read that C6 is very good. Only mod is adding an "E" lever on the band. Dont know why. Anyone know where I can get one?
On the turbo/super charging question. Have you ever driven a modified big block?? It will put a HUGE smile on your face. Take it one step at a time and learn to drive the big block and then put the turbo/super on! Do all that work and lose it on the top end? Huh-Unh. My 466 is going this route. After I learn to drive it, I plan on putting twin turbos on it! HeHe! Hiding them under the cab. Those poor ch@#ys wont know what hit em! Have been told that BBF plus good setup on turbo will equal ability to break tires loose at ANY speed. Will have to feather throttle all the way down the track!!
Good Luck and keep it between the lines!!

 

> Most of the time
>when over bore reaches .080"
>the cylinder walls must be
>sonic tested. If they test
>thick enough then it's ok
>to run. I've heard of
>guy's around here having a
>460 bored to .100",
>and then they stroked it
>to boot. this guy
>went through a ton of
>money trying to get a
>block that would sonic good
>enough to run. He
>was using it for mud
>drags and I definitly wouldn't
>run that on the street.
>
I agree with the above quote...been there, done that...I went thru a couple of SCJ 4 bolt main blocks and had them sonic checked. Only one was capable of going .080" over plus the cost of rings to fit it were higher. I would stick to .030 over and if your going to stroke it use a "3Y" crank as a minimum to offset grind. Deen

Deen Hylton
Ford F250 460 C-6, K&N, Headers, Dual Exh.,Comp. Cams,Shift Kit
Pioneer CD w/Bose Speakers.
Other Passion: Blown 77 Corvette (Sorry Guys/Gals)
How I can afford to Drive the above: 93 GEO Metro

 

To Huggy Bear-
We're still in the building process so we've never had it on the road to see how it drives. As you probably already know, it is a softly "sprung" frontend like most cars of that era so it won't be a corner carver, but should be real comfortable. We looked all over for firm shocks but only came up with some Monroe Heavy Duty's. We used Sanderson headers, they're pretty well known. The drivers side is pretty much a block hugger and cleared everything so far. The passenger side also slipped in perfectly. We still haven't decided on a steering column so we'll have to see how the intermediate shaft will fit, but there's plenty of room in there to monkey with multiple ujoints if we need to. I'm not sure if the older frames are different but you do have to notch the frame for the steering box, no big deal. Let me know if you have any more questions.