take thier advice, just drive the truck the way it is for now, put money into the aesthetics's of your truck or into things like brakes, tune ups oil changes, etc. If your set on bolting things on... just throw a free flowing muffler on.
Really? I presume your referring to headers vs cleaned EFI manifolds with improved flow down stream. Haven't seen anyone post comparison dyno sheets.
I'll agree that just headers vs just EFI manifolds the headers should show better dyno numbers. But, the dollar too hp/tq improvement should favor the EFI manifolds when replacing a log manifold on a carb engine.
I think we all agree the best first modification on a tight budget is exhaust. It can easily be taken is small stages. (ie manifold to cat/ cat to muffler/ muffler/ tailpipe)
To the OP: if you have a sawzall and $50, you can change the exhaust from the downpipe back to a free-flowing set up. I had a dynomax superturbo laying around from when i put loudmouths on my mustang, so i used that and just cheapo autozone exhaust pipes and U Clamps with high temp paint and changed my exhaust out in a couple of hours on my 83. It doesnt sound like the pockita pockita machine anymore, and the power increase is noticable, but then again i also adjusted my timing and did a tune-up at the same time.
And for christs sake, dude, learn how to communicate. Streams of unpunctuated consciousness are not cool. At all. im surprised you even used spaces...
i agree w/ u guys, ur only 17, and i'm sure u've got college to worry about in a year or two? trust me, i wish i would have saved the money i thought i was spending on worth while causes for wat i'm doing now...college isn't cheap...life period isn't cheap...i suggest u get a job, save ur cash and spend it on wats important until u've generated enough surplus to spend on ur toys.
__________________ The SnowMan
Kenny K.
The SixShooter
'81 F-150 300 I6, 4spd, 4x4...Daily driver/ Work in Progress
NOT BUILT FOR SPEED
Nebraska Chapter Member Yes, we have electricity, buffalo still roam in some parts of the state, and yes, there are more cows than people in my home town.
The SixShooter
'81 F-150 300 I6, 4spd, 4x4...Daily driver/ Work in Progress
NOT BUILT FOR SPEED
Nebraska Chapter Member Yes, we have electricity, buffalo still roam in some parts of the state, and yes, there are more cows than people in my home town.
Really? I presume your referring to headers vs cleaned EFI manifolds with improved flow down stream. Haven't seen anyone post comparison dyno sheets.
I'll agree that just headers vs just EFI manifolds the headers should show better dyno numbers. But, the dollar too hp/tq improvement should favor the EFI manifolds when replacing a log manifold on a carb engine.
I think we all agree the best first modification on a tight budget is exhaust. It can easily be taken is small stages. (ie manifold to cat/ cat to muffler/ muffler/ tailpipe)
i guess its kinda of wishy washy. a friend has a 300 with cam, head work and port matched EFI manifolds with that ridge on the outlets cleaned up and said headers were definatly better. they felt stronger on the low end and seemed to pull harder through the mid range.
BUT i do see ur point with cleaning up stock efi manifolds for a basicly stock carb'd 300. as i said, kinda wishy washy on how u look at it.
Yeah, 17 can be cool...at that time I had a '72 AMC Gremlin X with a 302 V8 and a 3-speed manual. Fastest car on the planet from 0-45.
This is an '83 we're talking about? Close enough. I just picked up a '79 F100. Here's my game plan (and I'm a bit past 17):
1. Safety: this means good rubber, good brakes, good suspension. If you're not comfortable with any of these, get help. A failure on the road at speed in any of these can ruin your whole day. This is where the first $ should go.
2. Reliability: getting stranded in the middle of the night, in winter, out of cell phone range, is not fun. You want to know that your truck will get you where you want to go, and get you home. Take care of the stuff that, if it fails, we strand you: alternator, water pump, battery, starter (if automatic), fuel system. If it were me: if the water pump has more than 50,000 miles on it, replace it. Same for the alternator. If the starter has more than 100,000 miles on it, replace that. These parts are not terribly expensive and are relatively easy to install. Radiator? Get it tested. I've seen some last nearly forever, others quit early in life. Perhaps obviously, replace all belts, filters, and hoses now. Carry spares.
3. Comfort: when you live with a vehicle, this starts to matter. After twenty-five years, how much foam is left in the seat? Do the heating/cooling systems work? Decent sound system (you don't need top of the line -- too much noise -- but you need something)? Comfort and the ability to stay awake contribute to your safety on long trips. Every year here in New Mexico we lose a few young people going home from school because they fell asleep at the wheel. Let's reduce this as much as possible right now. These mods don't have to break the bank.
4. Performance: assuming you have the money and you've taken care of the above, do whatever you want. Much of this depends on how you're going to use the truck. I use mine to haul dirt bikes and (eventually) a small camper trailer to races; I'd like the zf 5 tranny and the powertrax limited slip differential. Reliabily could improve with an electronic ignition or electronic distributor. Maybe a carb and exhaust mod. Make your own list, prioritize, and do it as you have the spare $$$.
Which leads to the last unsolicited bit of advice: never go into debt for a vehicle. Not now, not ever. No loans, no credit cards, no arrangements with Mom & Dad. If you can't pay cash, either don't do it or wait until you have it. I can't begin to count the number of young men I've worked with in various capacities (coach, youth leader, etc.) who go out and buy a car, max out the credit card doing the mods -- and then find themselves stuck in a dead-end job because they have to make payments. Closest thing to slavery I've ever seen, and they did it to themselves. Not a good place to be.
I wish you luck. There are days I miss the Gremlin. Take your time with the truck, stay in school, and you'll soon be in a position to do whatever you want with your wheels.
--
Mark
some pretty sound advice if there ever was any right here.
__________________ The SnowMan
Kenny K.
The SixShooter
'81 F-150 300 I6, 4spd, 4x4...Daily driver/ Work in Progress
NOT BUILT FOR SPEED
Nebraska Chapter Member Yes, we have electricity, buffalo still roam in some parts of the state, and yes, there are more cows than people in my home town.
after reading all these i must say i have a job. school lined up to jet jurneyman papers for collige trough work school is no worry to me. i make 500$ a month part time. the truck is perfect all new front end (undeneath) and shocks all around i have took everything from the down pipe off the truck and used various pipes 2-3 inch and a glasspack disipiontingly quit still for no cat and muffler, headers make it louder? and bought a new "baby 1bbl" air breather for it i am more than happy with millage now as i get 20-22 in town and 25ish on highway! i dont drive my truck with teenage foot i got a bagger 4L jeep for that.
If ya ain't got no money (or rather a lack there of of) you could always just hack the cat and muffler off and run a pipe from the cut to just infront of your passenger tire, total cost would be around $30, take note that you have to at -least- get the pipe to stretch to the bad of your cab and then down or you will run into reliability issues, and I -very stongly- suggest using clamps which will be at the same place as the pipe. Wire is a good alternative to welding proper mounts and hey it works. You could always replace your filter setup with a bigger one and doing away with the intake altogether (I did mine for $15 :P. Remove the smog pump and plug the holes also (about $10 for materials). You could also upgrade the spark plugs to a hotter burning one, except this will make you buy the minimun fuel for the plug 87 to 93 [should be noted that I had alot of trouble finding -any- 93 plugs for anything but the 302](about $50). After all this your going too have to adjust the carb and most of this you cannot do on an EFI as if create some problems. Either way, low budget, hope this helps someone out there :P.
__________________
'94 F-150 w/5.0 (302) "Major Ford" 31X10 .50 Buckshots, custom headache rack, K&N Intake and filter, (Off-Road Build in Progress "Boating" the cab, and frame)
'84 F-150 w/300-6 "The Constable" Stock Alloy Rims (94ish), Lund Racerback, Kenwood Dual-Din Stereo, (Track Build in Progress- 2.9L/or 4.9L, and custom frame.)
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That's hilarious!!!!!
