Chains dont have timing marks. books dont show the right motor. both cams twisted when we removed the timing chains. is there a certain way the chains go.

 

I also found this confusion when refering to the manual trying to find timing marks. I you clean the chains you will notice the two links are slightly gold colored compared to the others. also if straighten the chain out the two links should be equal distance from each other. straight across from each other though when you install them looks are deceiving it doesnt look like even distance but it is.those tensioners are tricky too.

 

There should be a timing mark on the crank pulley that lines up with a mark on the block when the engine is at #1 cylinder TDC, plus there are timing marks on the cam sprockets. From past experience YOU CANNOT CHECK THAT THE TIMING MARKS ARE STILL LINED UP!!! it is easy to end up 1 tooth off.

 

Here is how to time a 5.4:
If you can't see the gold links on the chain lay it on a table and stretch it out like this
========= at one end the link will be like l and the other end will be = . Mark all 3 links with white paint or something that will not rub off. These are your timing marks. Turn the crank so the key is at 12 o-clock and there will be a line on the crank sprocket at 7 o-clock. Set the left cam timing mark to 12 o-clock and the rt cam to 11 o-clock. Install the straight guides and the left chain first placing the single white link on the crank mark and the double white links on either side of the cam mark. Repeat for the right side then install the tensioner arms and then the tensioners. You need to compress the tensioners before you can install them. Stick a small screwdriver in the lock to release it and push in the plunger. Then push in the small ratchet arm and insert a small pin or paper clip into the hole to hold the tensioner retracted. Double-check the marks before you install the timing cover. DONT forget the crank sensor trigger wheel or you will be chasing a no-start concern (don't ask how I know LOL)

 

Hi I'm setting the timming on a 5.4 have every thing exactly as you postted but just a few questions is the #1 piston supposed to be tdc if so witch one is #1 left frount or right frount.

 

Passenger front cylinder is #1.
JL

 

None of the pistons will be at TDC if the marks are lined up right. The only thing that matters is the marks you put on the chains line up with the cam and crank marks.

 

Thank you for the lessons, I sure need them, Bill

 

If you rotate the crank while the chain is off you will certainly bend some valves. These are interference engines. READ THE MANUAL CAREFULLY!

 

sounds like you may know some of the Modular stuff? I have the valve cover off on drivers side, oil filler off on passangers side to see inside-crank at TDC, drivers side is a bit to the rt, say 1:00 instead of 12:00. if i bring the crank back to 10 btc it is straight up and down. is this a possibility it is off a tooth? i havent pulled the pass vc due to ac restrictions yet, but is the an accurate way to check this? getting a p0340 and all wiring and PCM tests good, runs bad and dies with cmp plugged in. is there enough clearence in the valve to piston ratio to not cause damage if this is off?
Thanks

 

You really need to take both valve covers off so you can see both cams and their marks and in the mean time I'll check my manual.

 

A big +1 on this. The crank positioning tool (which cost $80) is not even needed as long as you line up the marks on the timing chains.

 

If you send me your email address via PM I'll send the page on cam timing from my manual to you.

 

Yes, these engines will run if it's off by a tooth and a half. And that's all it takes to set a hard P0340. I would be looking at the timing chain guides as well. For what it's worth, I don't even bother with the Ford/Rotunda cam timing tools on any of these engines, be it a 2-valve, 3-valve or 4-valve engine. And so far, I haven't had any issue with timing these engines. All you need to do, is fold the chain exactly in HALF. The end with the two copper links (or two fabricated paint marks if the copper links are not visible) are lined up with the cam reference mark, and the single copper link is lined up with the mark on the crank sprocket, with the mark oriented at the 6 o'clock position. You then install the hydraulic timing chain tensioner, and repeat the process for the passenger side timing chain. DO NOT FORGET TO INSTALL THE CRANK SENSOR RING BEFORE YOU RE-INSTALL THE FRONT COVER.

And THAT, pretty much sums up the timing procedure on any 4.6/5.4/6.8L engine.

 

yup, what I said almost 2 yrs ago LOL