The only thing I can add is pay particular attention to the right side cam. There is a lot of tension on that cam, that can and will snap back and cause the chain to jump time if care is not taken when re-securing all the components. And yes, if you have the early 2004/2005 engines, there are way more valve cover bolts to address. I guess that Ford figured out they weren't necessary and that's why later engines used less bolts.

 

Good morning, I recently replaced the timing chains, guides, etc... in my 2002
F-150, when I removed the tensioners I found they had no gaskets behind them.
They appear to be the stock ones (milled sufaces) I'm wondering if it came out
of the factory like that ? The guy I bought the truck from has never done any
major engine work to it, certainly not "that kind of work", as he's way too lazy.
Anyway the new tensioners I purchased from Croyles have a built in O ring on the
back and seem to have eliminated the ticking noises it had during cold start up and
@ 1900 to 2100 rpms even after it was warmed up to normal operating temps.
I found this forum quite helpful during the whole process and wanted too say thank
you to everyone for posting their projects, I found most all of the answers to my
questions by simply reading though the entire thread, excellent tips too, like the
little dab of sealer on the crankshaft key, there's nothing worst than an oil leak,
especially when you think your all done !

Thanks again !

 

OK, bit of a problem again...
I live in Minnesota and now that the weather has taken a turn towards
the colder side, that ticking or dare I say knocking noise has returned
during cold start up. it's weird too, it's an automatic transmission and
if I put the truck into reverse or drive the noise goes away, and once
the trucks is warmed up it also goes away, what I'm wondering is, is
this an oil pressure issue, my gauge is just shy of the 3/4 mark and I'm
running 5-20 oil as recommended by Ford, anyone have any theory`s ?

 

Just an idea, is it your precats ticking, low knock, my 2000 f150 5.4 has this, 118k, goes away warm and in gear, I narrowed it down with a steth, and a hose, my drivers is worst than the pass. Ford had a tsb on this and their fix was sound deadening wrap. I just haven't mustered up the 700 for new assemblies, aftermarket by walker.

 

I assume by precats you mean the the 2 small catalytic converters just after the
exhaust manifolds, if so, yes it does sound like it's coming from that area on the
drivers side, the previous owner had the passengers side ex-manifold replaced
and that side is nice and quiet. my exhaust guy said the rest of the system and
the other manifold were fine... no leaks any where so we just went with a new
muffler (Magna flow) it sounds great now with the exception of that knocking
sound while it is warming up.
I did read somewhere here that the manifolds can get thin and create an echo
effect, starting to wonder if maybe that's not it, perhaps the sound deadening
wrap would be, if nothing else, an easy way to see if that's the problem or not.

I should mention the mileage, it's 137,000
Thanks you for your thoughts on this matter.

 

You seem fairly knowledgable in this area. I recently had the engine REBUILT in my 06 expedition. The rebuild included tearing the engine down sending block and heads to be machined. New rings new timing guides tensiometers and chaines and new oil pump.

I get the car back drive it about 10 miles. The check engine light comes on it starts hesitating during acceleration backfiring and has no power . I take it back to the shop they scan it and get a code of po345 and intermittent retard and advance timing codes. Over the last month they have replaced bank 2 cam position sensor bank 2 vct solo noire, bank 2 phaser and recently the PCM. I have lost all faith in this shop so I pick the car up take it to my local dealer they scan it and scan it only and tell me they want me to replace the engine? Really and you are supposed to be the best of the best and have ALL THE TOOLS at your disposal?. I'm still getting po345 the original shop says they have double checked timing and it's nuts on. Any suggestions?

Clay

 

My phasers, chains and tensioners will arrive tomorrow, I am apprehensive about removing the chains and tensioners from the old phasers. I want to make sure that everything goes well.
I have read previous posts, its still unclear when putting everything into position prior to removing the damaged (Cam phasers, crank, chains and tensioners).

Is this the point in which I should attempt to manually rotate the crank into position and shouldn't the old left and right phasers be close to being in position for the new phasers once I put the old crank sprocket into position, or should the old phasers final position matter?

I understand that the new chains will be marked and should be installed according to the chain links and marks on the cam sprocket and cam phasers marking. The cams will be locked in position prior to removing the bolts to the phasers.

 

Read my posts on the first page. Disregard the part about resetting the tensioners if you are installing new ones. Make sure you pull the locking clip off of the tensioner after you bolt it to the head. Put the engine in time before you take off the old chains and guides.

 

Thanks for the response 70 F-100.
I removed both phasers, the left phaser came apart when the bolt was removed. My cam shaft spun slightly when the spring from the phaser broke free. I know now that the phasers can go on the cam shaft only one way. Can I damage my lifters or any other part by independently rotating the cam shaft back into position?

 

No you won't hurt anything by turning the cam to get it in time. I use vice-grips between the cam lobes to turn the cam.

 

I keep getting a code P0012. I took the timing chain cover off again thinking the timing may be off a little. Now I am doubting my timing, I used the instructions listed on the first page. My question now, using the instructions is left the drivers side and right the passenger side.

The vehicle has never sounded better at idle, it just doesn't have the power it should have.

 

70f100longbed,
Regarding the position of the cams at 12 and 11 O'Clock is relative to the heads or just straight up and down like when you looking at a clock? Thanks

 

It is relative to the heads but you will probably have to turn the cams a little to line up the timing marks.

 

I had just finished taking this 5.4 apart again. I originally followed the manual and lined up everything, but I guess I had the right cam way off. Since it was running kinda bad. Here some pictures. I'm about to change the phasers also since I didn't the first time lessoned learned.






Thanks for the info

 

so you are saying even if the cams have turned out of time that putting them back to the marked link on the chain will put it back in time no matter how much it had turned?