Hello everyone. I just bought a 2005 f250 6.0. I love the truck. I love FORDS, they are the best, anyways this is my first power stroke ever. A few people have told me that the 6.0's are very problematic. Ofcourse they are owners of other makes of trucks. Are they talking crap? or does ford have this problem?

 

A little late to be asking that, huh? hahahaha As long as you do all the maintance when you're supposed to you'll be fine. Also, don't let the truck idle for long periods of time and you should be good. Main problems you'll find with the 6.0's are EGR, sticky turbo veins, or HPOP.

Welcome to FTE!

 

Thanks Tipp for the info. Nice truck you have.

 

Welcome to the 6.0L owners club! I love the 6.0L trucks, but I definitely feel it needs a little more care for longevity than the diesel's of old. There are preventative maintenance activities that are crucial AND you need to know about the inherent weaknesses like tippmann mentioned. You say you have already purchased the truck, but I would recommend you still get an OASIS report just to learn all that there is to know on your truck. You can request one at the top of the main forum page by submitting your VIN number.

Also, I am trying to get my list of things for new 6.0L owners put together in a comprehensive form. It is getting long and it may take a few posts, but here it (they come). I would appreciate any and all feedback.

 

Welcome to the Forum. Lots of good stuff in the Tech Folder. Answers to a LOT of questions.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html

"For Starters : VERY, VERY IMPORTANT - CLEAN OIL and CLEAN FUEL:
AND - USE THE TECH FOLDER!!"

GENERAL:
6.0L Bible and 05 Update:
http://www.FTEs diesel forums.com/uploads/6_0bible.htm
http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_html/05_update/html/05_Update_TOC.html

Also 6.0L Technical Intro Manual:
http://www.backglass.org/duncan/ps60_manual/

Glossary of Terminology:
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/glossary.php

OEM Filters - What to look for:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ml#post4145955
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-06-04.php

6.0L Diesel Refernce Manual Download
http://64.118.131.176/PSDcatalog/psdcatalog.html

6.0L Maintenance Video
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/training/retail/6.0L_diesel_maintenance/6.0L_diesel_maintenance.html

OIL:
Use ONLY OEM and OEM style oil filters (which are made by RACOR). Lots of threads on this subject AND info in the Tech Folder.

Oil change at 5000 miles (During the oil change, drain water from the HFCM fuel filter as long as you are under the truck). Certainly no more than 7500 OCI. The viscosity shears quickly to unacceptable low values on all oils - even synthetics.

At oil change, add 13.5 to 14 qts. 1 qt. stays in the system. Some systems will take 15 quarts. Whatever you add, it is best to NOT go over the full mark due to potential foaming. You may want to add 15 just because that is what is stated in the manual, even if it is over the full mark. This isn't the best choice. There is plenty of room on the low side (the range on the dipstick from high to low is 2 quarts). I have never seen a new vehicle on the lot with the oil level OVER the dipstick level. You decide.

Oil type - Motorcraft 15W-40 (diesel) works fine in warmer temperatures. Because of the possibility of injector STICTION, 15W40 is not recommended for temperatures below 40*F or so. Many use synthetics for conservatism and for advanced protection. They can provide improved high temperature stability, lower soot numbers and other benefits. A 5W40 synthetic in the winter seems to be a very beneficial choice due to low viscosity at ambient temps., especially if you are below 30 deg F. I use 5W40 synthetic year round - even in 105+ temperatures.

Synthetics (order of increasing cost):
Rotella T Synthetic, Delo 400 Synthetic, Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel (or Mobil 1 Delvac), Royal Purple 15W-40. There are many others, these are just some of the more common synthetics.

Oil Filter Change:
http://home.austin.rr.com/sbv1/Procedures/ChangingEngineOil.htm

FUEL:
Get your fuel at high volume stations.
Do not run your tank empty. Fuel pressure below 45 psig causes injector system damage.

Understanding Diesel Fuel:
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-05-04.php

Use ONLY OEM and OEM style oil filters (which are made by RACOR). Lots of threads on this subject AND info in the Tech Folder.

Change fuel filters every 10,000 (certainly no more than 15,000 miles). If you change the oil at 5000 miles, consider alternating between changing fuel filter during one oil change and just draining water from the HFCM on the next.

Fuel Filter Change:
http://home.austin.rr.com/sbv1/Procedures/fuel%20filter%20change.htm

HFCM Drain:
http://home.austin.rr.com/sbv1/Procedures/fuel-water-drain.htm

Fuel Additives help lubricity and boost cetane (improve combustion efficiency), among other things. If you choose to use a fuel additive, use one that demulsifies water and contains NO ALCOHOL. Some folks don't use additives, but they clearly can prevent gelling in the cold, strip water, and improve lubricity and cetane. Some help reduce soot, reduce corrosion, clean fuel system, etc. Again - you choose. If you do UOA's and IF it shows too much fuel dilution (over 1%), you need to choose additives wisely ... some believe they can have some negative effects on the softer bearings and on iron). I have just begun to add BIODIESEL for lubricity at the 2% level - .5 gal/tank - (along w/ the Stanadyne Performance Formula).
http://www.johnfjensen.com/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf
http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177728


AIR:
Use ONLY OEM filters (which are made by Donaldson).
No aftermarket unless you are heavily modded (over 500 hp).

Change air filter when filter minder shows the need (in the manual). I change mine more often, to be safe - most say it isn't necessary.

Air Filter Change:
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-06-01.php

more to come ................

 

Welecome 1eyejack.The 05 has a problematic fitting in the high pressure oil pump.Its called a stc (snap to connect)fitting and its crap and they break,Ford has a replacement part that is more robust and hopefully in your truck allready.

 

post 2 / 2 ...............

OPERATION:
Let it warm up for awhile (30 seconds minimum) before driving. Don't drive hard until engine and oil is at or near normal temperatures.

Make sure you cool it down (Exhaust Gas Temperatures) after hard driving or towing.

Idling over 10 minutes is not good unless you increase the idle RPM's (1250 w/ high idle mod). Even then I would minimize this type of operation.

Coolant - 50% Distilled Water and ONLY Motorcraft Gold Antifreeze (MUST contain NO SCA)

Batteries - do not change one at a time. Change them both, even if one appears to still be good.

Reliability / Helpful Modifications:
Coolant Filter
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=324

Fuel Filter (HFCM) drain plug upgrade: http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-05-19.php
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-05-19.php

Fumoto oil pan drain valve
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...photoid=130398
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...PROD&ProdID=33
http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/

High Idle mod. Look in Tech Folder (1st link below) and in the second link below (specifically 119th post):
http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/Other/High..._idle_mod.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ml#post2327760

Elimination of door chime
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...oor-chime.html

GAUGES: EGT (pre and post turbo), Fuel pressure, Oil temp, Tranny temp, Boost, etc.

ITP Return Regulated Fuel System
http://www.itpdiesel.com/store.php?c...on=show_detail

Fluidampner
http://www.xtremediesel.com/index.as...FSE7SgodPiknOQ

MOOG greasable ball joints when the time comes to replace OEM. (EDIT - I NOW highly recommend DynaTrac Ball Joints as the best you can get).
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ll-joints.html

Bilstein shocks

Dual steering stabilizers (Death Wobble)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...t=death+wobble

Oil bypass filter

Open up the exhaust

24 inch wiper blades - Really nice!

Lots, Lots more if you have the $$'s!

 

bismic, very good info...months of constant reading sum'd up in one post

 

This should be stickied at the top of the forum as an "FYI for new 6.0 owners".

 

add main seals and head gaskets to that list.

 

I think in there for the newbies should also include averages and recommended readings not to exceed. I know there is going to be some variance depending on mods and how aggressive the programming is, but typically most just do a tuner(as far as true mod to the performance(exhaust etc. is secondary as far as performance goes in my book)) and there are readings that are true across the board 95% of the time and if they don't do any performance mods to it at all then those readings should hold good.

 

This would make a GREAT sticky. Add tex25025's recommended readings not to exceed and average readings to bismic's work of art, and take 62rag's title suggestion and do the sticky. I would have loved to have had all this in a single reference just for new guys a year ago. I STILL love this forum for everything to do with my truck. Thanks to everybody who keeps this site the resource that it is. rc

 

Excellent suggestion - I actually began trying to track all that down. If you don't mind, how about if I start a list and PM you to get your feedback on it? I am definitely weak in this area.

 

That's fine with me. Anyway I can help please let me know.

 

EGR COOLERS EGR VALVE $2500 bucks

Bad INJectors $800-1200 each one or a bank of 8 $3300-5500

ICPand IPR's $500-?????each

HPOP's

Hpop connector thingamagigers

Wire harness chaffing

Seems like everything costs $500-3000 to work on.

If you can afford it go for it cause they do haul you know what...and get 17-19MPG