ok i bled all 4 corners today and my pedal is still squishy, bled em till it ran clear it sounds like an air leak when you depress the brake pedal and it doesnt get frim till 3/4 way down.

now would this likely be the M/C or booster or both?> it's a 4x4 dual piston vin is sneg4150 if i need a new booster i am gonna upgrade it to bendix R2512681 from a 79 f350

 

i'm going to guess the brake booster. my 78 had a similar problem. it got to the point to where the pedal wouldn't come back up. i replaced the booster and master cylinder as a combo package. she's ow in a frame up restoration and i wil be upgrading the brake system.

 

It still amazes me that people think a booster can cause a low or soft pedal. It can't.

Sounds like the rears need to be adjusted. If the pedal sinks slowly with your foot on it, then you need a new master cylinder.

 

shouldnt amaze you it's called find the route of the problem

 

I agree with andym,adjust the rears and see what happens.

 

You didn't even get that right. It's the "root" of the problem.

 

look if your one of the high and mighty look at my internet ***** kinda guys wonderfull just what we need

i intentionally spelled it wrong as in find the way to the problem ie. route this truck is pushing 30 and i imagine the brake stuff is original except for what i have already changed out.

now if you dont have helpfull information for my problem click on your browsers back button and read someone elses post.

 

I already tried to help you. Adjust the rears, it might be the master as well (I even told you how to diagnose that) and I helped you further by saying it can't be the booster. Then you brought the attitude out.

Some people you just can't help.

 

guess it all depends on how "you" read things then

 

ok when i depress my brake pedal i get a hissing sound, which to "me" would be a bad booster like it was leaking air, kinda sounds like an old T handle bicycle pump.

 

There is a rod in the booster that depresses the master cylinder.

It has an adjusting nut on it.

Turn it out a few turns and try it.

The measurment from the face of the booster to the end of the rod is about 1".

Don't go to far or the brakes will hang up and wear out quicker.

This is after the rear shoes have been adjusted.

 

yeah mil1ion gave me a schematic on a measuring block. ill have to see if i can adjust the rears or not. not really sure when they were changed so it may be a good idea to replace the shoes and the springs before hand

 

my 1979 f-250 4/4 had the same problem did all new brakes and lines still wasnt working right so and put on a new --M/c and wa-la beast brakes ever