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Early Broncos (1966 - 1977)





Is F-150 Still King?


 
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Old 02-03-2008, 05:46 PM
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0351mike is starting off with a positive reputation.
No Spark?

Yup- still working on the the 68 half cab with a 200 I6. I have replaced pretty much everything I could, battery, voltage reg, starter, selinoid, carb, fuel pump, cap, points, rotor, plugs, coil, plug wires. The motor turns at normal speed, but when I remove the high tension lead off the dist and hold it close to ground- NO SPARK? Did I hook up the coil right? Positive to wiring harness, negative to dist? Could the coil be bad right out of the box? If not the coil what other possibilities could I test?
   
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Old 02-03-2008, 09:58 PM
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RCrawler is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Do you have power to the coil +? Check for power and then check the negative side while someone cranks the engine to check for a pulse which will indicate whether the points are working properly.

Jason
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Old 02-04-2008, 07:06 AM
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0351mike is starting off with a positive reputation.
I will give it a try, thanks- if no power to the positive side- where do I go from there? If power to + but no negative- does that mean the coil is bad?
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Old 02-04-2008, 09:36 AM
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merlynr is starting off with a positive reputation.
Power to pos side is from the ignition switch. The points in the dist control the spark to plugs. If you have power on + side of coil and no pulsing on - side of coil, trouble is probably in distributor. The coil raises the 12v pulses to 25000 volts and distributor rotor sends it to appropriate plug to be fired. To check secondary side of coil which is the - side with an ohmeter on scale to read between 4000-10000 ohms put one lead on - of coil and other lead in coil wire tower of coil. This is done with no power to coil as the battery in volt/ohm meter supplies the power. If the reading is within above range(except hi perf coil),then coil secondary windings are ok.
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Old 02-04-2008, 10:22 AM
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RCrawler is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
If you have no power to the +, you need to trace back to the ign switch. The circuit has a resistance wire to reduce the voltage to the primary side to prolong the life of the points.

If you have no power to the - side, you could have an open coil winding. If you are not getting a flash, the points may be set wrong or a bad connection.

Jason
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'93 F350 CC 4wd 7.3L 5spd, 240K miles
'69 Bronco SEFI 5.0, NP435, geared, locked...
'77 F150 4wd 351M, 435, 205
'79 F150 4wd lwb 400, 435, 205

"You can take the boy out of the trailer park, but you can't take the trailer park out of the boy."
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Old 02-04-2008, 11:39 AM
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0351mike is starting off with a positive reputation.
Thank you - I will give it a try.
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Old 02-04-2008, 12:38 PM
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rbaker6336 has a good reputation on FTE.rbaker6336 has a good reputation on FTE.
did you clean point contacts before installing,sometime have residue on the that won't alow contact
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Old 02-04-2008, 01:00 PM
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0351mike is starting off with a positive reputation.
I did not clean, but tested with old points and new- both had no spark. The harness on this truck was pretty much intact, A pink resistor wire was cut under the dash, but I reconnected- but it says right on it-do not cut- could this be part of the problem?
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Old 02-04-2008, 01:09 PM
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rbaker6336 has a good reputation on FTE.rbaker6336 has a good reputation on FTE.
if you have 12v to positive side of coil and didtributer to negitive and no shorts in dist wire it should spark
disconect wire from points and touch to ground and see if it sparks,could be shorted condensor or broken dist lead


BTW these normally start on 12v and run on 6v
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2000 F-350 2WD,DRW Auto, PSD,
DP Tuner,40 Tow 80E,Wicked Wheel 4" Exhaust ,AIS intake, Guages,6.0 Trans cooler to install
DooDad???=(dfuser ram air)
'98 Grand Cherokee
'86 F-150 SB Lariat 4x4 bought new (needs new home)
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