Are you attaching the running board to the rear fender with bolts and nuts? I noticed my truck has three bolts connecting the two together. On the outside bolt, its causing the fender metal to spider crack at or near the bolt hold and bolt. Anyway of eliminating this from happening? If I remove the bolts, there is no stress on the fender, but you can't stand on the running board either because it flexes, which I'd rather have than cracking my fenders. Any suggestions?

 

Hey man, I know just what you're talking about!! On mine, I had several extra parts truck so I took 2 extra runnin board brackets off and spaced them to where I liked the look of them. I drilled holes in the frame and mounted the new brackets, and mounted the board to it. Now my runnin boards "float" and dont touch the fender, but my truck has a '72 model bed, which postitions the rear fenders up about 2 1/2" higher than original fenders. I say all this to tell you that I added more metal to the bottoms of the fenders so they go under the bed fenders.


Last year at the Supernats, I went through an automatic carwash (IDIOT) and tore up the rear of my front fenders, when I had to go over the rails in the floor of the wash. When I came down I ruined the bottoms of the front fenders I havent worked on them yet, but I'm seriously thinking about "bobbing" off the bottom of them where the damage is, and extending the front of my running boards too. I dont think you can see them in my gallery, but take a look and see? As I said my fenders float on the running board brackets, and are very strong!! They're not bolted to the front fenders or the rear. The only thing is you have to "notch" one of the braces on the bottom of the rear of the running boards to do this, but mine were JUNK to start with so I didn't hurt anything. As I said look in my gallery, my truck was ROUGH!

I hope this helps??

 

I'm using 'glass boards and fenders and am leaving out all those bolts for the time being, and for the exact reasons you stated. So far no problems, but I don't have thousands of miles on it either. On the 48-52's there is a running board support about 6" in front of the rear fender, and I've stood on the board near the fender, with only minimal flex occuring.

I've also considered drilling oversize holes and using a spring-loaded connection; a bolt with a spring under the nut so it clamps the two together but allows some movement. I'd also put some poly sheet between the fender and board so they don't scratch up the paint if there is movement. (there will be)

 

I had much the same problem when my running boards/rear fenders were stock. The PO patched (badly) the rear fender due to rust out and the patch was well on its way to rusting out again. The biggest part of the problem was that the shape of the end of the running board was different than the fender so that the fender was tweaked by the bolts. Add to that the flexing between the two when going over diagonal bump/ruts in the road.

Of course my solution was a bit radical, but I like it.
Old fender/running board: https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=62662&width=2
Solution: https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=14657

Maybe replacing the outboard bolt with a fixed pin that could slide in and out of the fender would support the board without tweaking the fender?

 

I ran a bolt through my running boards and rear fenders. Before I did, I could here a slight vibrating sound when the engine was running. I put a bolt in there to join the two and the vibration sound went away. I placed it in the flattest spot I could find. I'm running glass boards and fenders, and I haven't had any problems. I found that it was actually too flimsy without the bolt. Drill the hole slightly larger and use the bolt more as a "clamp". That way it will move around slightly if a load is applied in the shear plane.

 

ALL metal panels had what I call dum dum in between . The stuff looks like silly putty and this eliminates all squeeks and rattles. The reason for the cracking is the fact that the two surfaces are not exact in shape. The anti squeek product used takes up the voids and thus elimanates the need for the panels to be tightened too much.

The running board bolts were of the carrage bolt style. They went thru from the wheel well side with nuts on the underside of the running board

Kevin Bigwin

 

What I did was removed the inside and outside bolts and nuts and kept the center bolt in for support. I also wedged a piece of 1/8" neoprene rubber at the bolt which is keeping the running board slightly off the rear fender preventing it from rubbing or further cracking the fender metal. I drove it around a little and it seems OK for now. I also use the nylon locking nuts but didn't torque them down real hard.
Actually I used 53's advice... so thanks! Will see if this fixes the problem.

 

I like the idea of something between the fender and the Running Board; be it "dum-dum" , rubber washer, whatever....but the use nylon inserted nuts so that you do not have to overtighten them. Just a little snug and they do not loosen.

 

New Carpenter running boards bolted to the rear fenders metal to metal with no cracking or other prob.

 

RJ... checked out your gallery on this fix.... really nice work. wonder what I'm going to run into with fiberglass fenders AND boards.. I've already considered adding more support for the running boards...

that is.... IF I EVER GET THAT FAR AGAIN !!!!!!!

there... . that feels better now..

later
j

 

I dont know if your already in paint with your running boards but...before paint you can "pie-cut" the top edge of the running board where it meets the rear fender, add or subtract metal and custom fit the board edge to the contour of the frender. You then put the fender welt between and bolt them together. It will fit nicer and there wont be a "pull" where the bolt tries to close any gap between the two surfaces....just an idea, worked well on mine.
Ed

 

What about one of them upper seat belt mount washers ??????