I'm about to start prepping my 460 block and heads, and I want to make sure I get everything done right. I know I need to:
-bore and hone the block(what type of honing?)
-check deck for straightness
-tank and clean it
--??
-cyl heads:
-port and polish
-mill for better CP(how much?) and correct mating of parts
-??

Thats all I can think of, any suggestions would help. Also, what good books are there for 460 engine building??

Thanks

 

what year heads do you have?
Where did the block come out of?

 

Well, I got the motor out of a 79 lincoln, bought it from a guy for $100. so its the c9ve heads, low compression smog stuff, and I'm planning on a 521 stroker torque monger!

 

I don't know what companies do this now but instead of hot tanking you might consider a service that was sold through a company called Reddi Strip back in the 70s and 80s, at least in So Cal.

Instead of the usual hot tanking, Reddi Strip or whatever it might be called now, used a solution that had some kind of Cyanide solution(I think Potasium Cyanide). Yes it was very toxic and would kill any animal that was unfortunate enough to take a lick of the residue but what a beautiful cleanup it did on engines.

I did my old D@$%# engine and it came out looking like an aluminum block. All the rust in the passages and any residue on the surfaces was totally gone. It was beautiful and the engine ran cooler since there was absolutely no scale in the passages.

Just a thought, if it is still available. I would be interested to know if it still is and what it is called now.

Probably too toxic for today's politically correct atmosphere but may be worth a try.

Good Luck,

Jim Henderson

 

It might be more cost effecient to get a set of c8's heads. You can get them at Autozone for like 125each i think w/core. Just send your heads in for the core they should not care. Save you from milling your heads to make up for such a large combustion chamber. Plus you get the addvantge of being ready for screw in studs for adjustable valve train.

chris
79 F-150
79 mustang

 

Can't give you a specific answer, but my experience with Haynes and Chiltons manuals is that they have pretty decent wiring diagrams in the back. Worth a try. Plus of course I assume factory shop manuals would have even more detail.

Good Luck,

Jim Henderson

 

What would I ask for when I went to Autozone? The guys at the store over here dont know much, so they need a vehicle that the heads came out of. Also, whats the full casting number for the c8's? Just for reference, mine are c9ve-a. I think mine have the screw in rocker arm studs. there's a nut on the bottom of the stud, but I dont have the right size wrench to see if they comeoff. But if theyre each $125, how much is a good tank/mill/etc job??

 

Wouldn't C9VE heads be from a '69 Lincoln, not a '79? The '68 69 70 71 Lincoln 460's were all small chamber heads, 10.5:1 compression ratio.

 

If the c9ve-a heads are from a 69, I would love it. How do I identify?

 

I would carefully double check the casting number on the heads to verify whether it is really a C9 for 1969. The number is just below the valve covers between cylinders 2 & 3 on the passenger side, and 6 & 7 on the driver side.
FYI, the standard engine in Lincolns dropped down to the 400 in about 1977, with the 460 still available as an option. But for 1979, only the 400. No Lincoln came with a 460 in 1979. So either that donor car wasn't a 79, or over the years, someone put the older 460 engine in it. Hope its the old 460!
You might also want to look at the intake manifold casting number, its on top, big letters behind the carb on a runner.

 

Double check says the head casting number on the head is C9VE-A, and the intake manifold number is C9VE-9425-A. The guy I bought it from said it came off a 79 lincoln, but I guess he cant be right. A search on this site says that these are the early pre'72 heads that didnt have the smog port tubing. So around 77cc?? Is there any other way to get more specific information on this? Thanks

 

Those are the 69 small chamber heads, just like the ones Im currently working on. Good stuff. Make sure the shop puts in hardened exhaust valve seats, and use a dished piston to lower compression a little for pump gas. My block was water busted in the back behind the bell housing. The early blocks were thinner here so check that out before machining.

Nathan

 

Thats awesome. And here I thought I had some crappy smog heads. So where was your block busted? The guy I bought it from said it ran fine when he took it out, but I've decided not to trust him anymore.

 

It was busted behind where the tranny bolts on, both water jackets. It probably froze at one time, but the 75 block I ended up using was cast beffier in this area. I may see about having the block welded up for a future project as every other aspect looked brand new.

Nathan