Up graded Fuel Heater
#1
Up graded Fuel Heater
I installed the fuel heater up grade (International #1831196C92) and it really went smooth. I used the grinding method and that was easy, just take your time. International cost about $30.00 Ford $140.00.
After looking at the modification I think a person could just add a short piece of wire (Diesel/Solvent proof) to the existing heater wire usind an insulated butt connector and save yourself all of that grinding. At least it looked like it would work.
Rog
After looking at the modification I think a person could just add a short piece of wire (Diesel/Solvent proof) to the existing heater wire usind an insulated butt connector and save yourself all of that grinding. At least it looked like it would work.
Rog
#4
#5
#6
Got you coverd on the mod see link..http://www.thedwilsons.com/powerstro...eater_Mod.html
Clueless on the water crack. Cant wait to hear that one.
Clueless on the water crack. Cant wait to hear that one.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Originally Posted by IceboxFX
i kind of wish i didnt ask haha it just always sticks out in kawa's sig
4 BBL carb and Cadillac Battery water. It's about as funtional as a WalMart Bag Mod.
Kind of a let down huh??
Rog
#9
hahaha yeah, i did some searching and found an old thread how high can you go ... and kind of got the jist of it, at least i dont have to wonder anymore
#11
The best thing to do is click on the link a couple posts above us and it spells out the whole proceedure.
The grinding in on a upright brace (for lack of better words) moulded to the inside of the fuel bowl for the OEM heater to bump up against to keep it from turning when you tighten the center post. About 3/4" needs to be removed so the new heater doen't contact it, but now goes over it.
The link has photos and the whole ball of wax. I did the mod on a removed filter. I can't imagine doing it installed on the engine with all of the grinding dust.
Rog
The grinding in on a upright brace (for lack of better words) moulded to the inside of the fuel bowl for the OEM heater to bump up against to keep it from turning when you tighten the center post. About 3/4" needs to be removed so the new heater doen't contact it, but now goes over it.
The link has photos and the whole ball of wax. I did the mod on a removed filter. I can't imagine doing it installed on the engine with all of the grinding dust.
Rog
#12
Originally Posted by kawa
The best thing to do is click on the link a couple posts above us and it spells out the whole proceedure.
The grinding in on a upright brace (for lack of better words) moulded to the inside of the fuel bowl for the OEM heater to bump up against to keep it from turning when you tighten the center post. About 3/4" needs to be removed so the new heater doen't contact it, but now goes over it.
The link has photos and the whole ball of wax. I did the mod on a removed filter. I can't imagine doing it installed on the engine with all of the grinding dust.
Rog
The grinding in on a upright brace (for lack of better words) moulded to the inside of the fuel bowl for the OEM heater to bump up against to keep it from turning when you tighten the center post. About 3/4" needs to be removed so the new heater doen't contact it, but now goes over it.
The link has photos and the whole ball of wax. I did the mod on a removed filter. I can't imagine doing it installed on the engine with all of the grinding dust.
Rog
It's a sturder heater and unlikly the short and blow fuse #22.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
38Chevy454
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
3
12-31-2013 09:01 PM
fireball14513
1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
02-07-2012 10:44 AM
wdhille
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
5
11-05-2007 08:10 PM