This might seem like a silly question, but I need to know. When the engine is running, which way does the crankshaft turn, counter-clockwise (left) or clockwise (right) as your are sitting behind the wheel? This is a '77 460 which has been sitting up for a while and I want to turn it over by hand a bit before trying to start it. I don't want to turn it backward.

Since I know someone knows this right off the top of their head, I'll also ask what size socket is needed to fit the big nut on the crank pulley.

Thanks for the help.

David

 

I don't off the top of my head know the answer, I'll try to remember to check when I get home.

But as far as I know, as long as the tranny is in neutral, it won't matter which way you hand turn the engine. I would remove all the accessory drive belts before turning it, just to make your job easier. Be sure to squirt some oil into each cylinder thru the spark plug hole. Let it sit for a bit and then try to turn it. My guess is you will need a breaker bar. There is a fair chance you may have rust, so the engine may need a rebuild in a short time if things are too bad.

Good Luck,

Jim Henderson

 

As you are sitting behind the engine it turns counterclockwise relative to you. The memory aid that I use for this one is to remember that the ring gear is on the driver's side of the pinion gear and the pinion gear must turn counterclockwise relative to a person facing the front of the vehicle to drive the vehicle forward and the engine and pinion gear turn the same direction when in forward gears.

 

the nut should be 15/16....another easy way to know which way to turn it is to think about what you are turning to turn the engine...a nut, right?...so do you want to "loosen" the nut? i don't think so...turn the engine to "tighten" the nut

 

Precisely right... The crankshaft bolt is a 15/16, you will most likely need a large breaker bar to turn it over.
Turn the engine the direction you would turn the bolt to tighten it.. namely, clockwise as looking from the FRONT of the engine(radiator)
Be sure to lubricate the cylinders before you turn it over... I recommend a portion of Marvel Mystery Oil.. squirt a bit down into each cylinder and let it sit a touch before turning..
Have fun!!!

J/.c

1965 Ford Galaxie 500 (okay, so not quite a truck)
460/C6 transplant @ 389hp/491 lb.ft.
14.29@103.8, 13-14 mpg heheheheheh

 

Hey everybody,

Thanks for the quick responses. Now that I've given it a great deal of deep thought, the whole idea of turning the pulley nut righty/tighty to turn the engine over sure makes sense! So, of course does the ring and pinion line of thought. Wonder how long it would have taken me to figure out the obvious by myself? Duh!

I've got a brand-new can of Marvel just waiting for an excuse to be used. How much in each cylinder? An ounce maybe, or just a squirt?

Best to all,

David

 

If you have access to a squirter, by all means, use that.. If you just pour it down in, it will all fall to the laws of gravity, only soaking through the bottom portion of the cylinder... if you can squirt some all the way round the piston area, you'll be much better off.. I'd say use as much as you feel like... too little wont thoroughly soak everything, in which case you just add more, and too much isnt going to injure anything!
have fun!

J/.c

1965 Ford Galaxie 500 (okay, so not quite a truck)
460/C6 transplant @ 389hp/491 lb.ft.
14.29@103.8, 13-14 mpg heheheheheh

 

Hey
Just my way of doing things but i usually pour diesel fuel down the spark plug holes on any engine I am rebuilding wether it has been siezed or not.

Always works
335 clevo

 

Glad the other guys knew which way it turned. I forgot to check.

You probably already know this, but the engine will probably smoke a bit at first due to the extra oil. Just wanted to let ya know so you wouldn't panic if you weren't ready for it.

If you really want to be safe, you might consider pulling the distributor and priming the oil pump. Most people find some rod stock that will fit the distributor drive and a good hand drill to turn the pump to get the oil flowing before starting the engine. I do not know the specific size of rod stock required and I am not 100% sure this will work on a Ford. I have only done this on old B Wedges from D@#&*. Maybe some of the more knowledgable guys can give specifics.

Good Luck,

Jim Henderson

 

ON that note, yea.. the oil pump drive shaft is a 5/16" hexagonal shaft. The easiest way to prime it is to get an old 1/4" drive 5/16" socket, on a long extension, stick that down in there and spin that with a drill...DO NOT LOSE THE SOCKET INTO THE ENGINE!! hehehehe
Yea, it works with fords too

J/.c

1965 Ford Galaxie 500 (okay, so not quite a truck)
460/C6 transplant @ 389hp/491 lb.ft.
14.29@103.8, 13-14 mpg heheheheheh

 

I've been using a 7/8" socket on the crankshaft, for D0VE's. Did they change bigger on later 460's?
Oh, its CCW on that oil pump shaft. Just did it a weekend ago, Proud Owner and I seem to use the exact same method. No special tool required. I did steady the top of the 6" 1/4" drive extension with a leather glove on. I had the oil deflection clips clipped over the rocker arms, valve covers off, could see one by one as each pushrod got oil.

 

Yes, they changed to a larger crankshaft bolt in 73. the 72 engine that I pulled also had a 7/8" bolt, but my 74 has a 15/16" bolt.


J/.c

1965 Ford Galaxie 500 (okay, so not quite a truck)
460/C6 transplant @ 389hp/491 lb.ft.
14.29@103.8, 13-14 mpg heheheheheh