I guess the reason I need to protect the artw ork is because I use water born paints in my shop. They are specifically designed for automotive use. But they do need to be protected. I will try to pot some photos in my gallery of some of the stuff I've done using water born paints. When I first saw them, I was very skeptical. But I do prbably 99% of all of my work with these paints. The name of these paints are called Auto Air. They make them in 100's of colors choices. I have had real good luck with them. I also use a paint called Etac. Also for very fine detail. My process on getting the old worn look , is to rubb the artwork with a scuff pad after it sets. It produces a cool effect. Let me see if I can post some pics in my gallery.
"flat black looks **** after a while and you get sick to death of the sight of it."
just trying to share my experience
"satin is just a function of amount of flattener used. can look awesome with HEAVY pearl in a BRIGHT color......but you better spray the top coat on nice and even, coz you cant just 'colorsand' it."
I thought this was encouraging and constructive, and warning of a potential pitfall for a guy who SEEMED to be saying he doesn't have much experience in painting WHOLE LARGE VEHICLES, which in no way is designed to suggest ANY lack of talent in smaller, detailed, airbrushed stuff and so forth, since I've obviously never seen his work.
"Its just not much more work to do nice, glossy paint......just takes a little more bondo. There's nuttin like washing and polishing a paint job you done yourself, and just bringing it back up again and again."
Just how I felt after using full gloss after 8 different flat/satin jobs
"You dont want your base peeling or reacting under the lettering that you're trying to show-off."
still nobody has talked at all about paint type/brand compatibility
and the "show-off" part refers to the fact that my project was MY company car and often times reflected badly on my business in ways that I never anticipated, rather than positive attention for my business as I had hoped
"and.......(drum roll please)......FAKE OLD ALWAYS LOOKS GAY......and NOT in a fashionable 'metrosexual' kinda way......I mean.....its like getting a chest wig or something...just completely wrong from any conceivable angle...."
OK.....SORRY......I, PERSONALLY,.....do not like the look of FAKE OLD......I was referring to COMPLETE vehicle paint finish, NOT finely detailed works of art used for lettering and so forth by professionals with training, passion, experience and talent.
"the management desire to clarify that all opinions expressed in these comments are purely those of the participant and in no way to reflect on the producers of this dvd production(sorry...forum)"
I apologise to anybody who was offended by me expressing my dislike of something as "gay" and will strive to at all times use non-colorful descriptions on this forum.
Hey Oz, Buddy , I was not offended by most of your advice. I do appreciate the help. No offense taken there. Just to refer to an idea I have as being "gay" kind of sets the tone for the rest of the thread. And I really didn't like where it was going. I promise you dude, I will not paint my truck pale pink with roses on the door handles. If I do ,then someone get my address ,and come shoot my silly butt. (I guess unless my wife drove it.) Had to throw that in there. Anyway, you can see that on most of the doors you showed , they are using what is called a one shot paint. This is especially made for guys who do everything by hand ,and a camel hair brush that I have never got the hang of. I tried doing some pinstripes and it looked like a crack head did it! Good thing I was practicing. Anyway, I plan on doing it by hand, but with an airbrush instead. I will use a little masking ,but just around the outside to give it clean lines. And since it is water born paint, I have to cover it with ,I would assume a clear with a flattening agent in it. I'm kind of distractwed right now with a carb problem that is driving me nuts. I drove this truck from TN to WV with no probs. Then the other day it acted like it was running out of fuel. I checked the filter ,the fuel line ,and all seems clear. When I loosen the fuel line gas squirts about 2 ' out of the line. Like its under pressure or something. Oh well, it will give me something to do in between painting. Hey Oz, feel free to comment anytime. My skin is tough as a gators.Later
Buddy , I would say that airbrush art is top notch. I never really got into painting cars, but have done a couple of tail gates. I mostly stick to bike tins. I don't have to have a very big shop to do it, and it seems everyone is going back to airbrushed tins on their bikes. Airbrushing kinda died off for about 20 years, then it made a come back. I was a self employed concrete contractor for 26 years before I opened my bike shop. I have to say, I love what I am doing. Cool car by the way.
Oz did bring up a good point why not start with the color you have and just add your art work to it. In fact (I know you didn't ask) I think that would look better then the primered look. Everyone (including me) seems to have jumped on the primer band wagon. You could maybe tutone it using the white as one of the colors?
Auto Air is a waterborne (NOT water soluable) acrylic paint and is suitable as a finish coat without additional covering. The Checkers/Schucks/Kragan fuel funny car is completely painted with Auto Air paint. Because it's top grade pigment covers better than other paints they were able to save 40# of paint weight!
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Passionate about autocross racing!
2003 GSL, 2005 HSL National Champion
1956 F100 Panel support/tow vehicle
2007 Solstice GXP
2002 Celica GT 2003 GSL National Champion
1999 Miata gone but not forgotten
Coworker/friend of mine has a bunch of old B&W photos of hand painted panels and pickups. His granfather used to do all the artwork in the Duluth region. Pretty neat pics. As for the BC/CC, the BC is designed to be dull, and the CC adds the gloss. That said, the BC would probably wear/sunfade rather quickly without the CC on top.
(Ax, thanks for mentioning Street Rod Builder...I think I'm gonna look into a subscription myself. Any recommended back issues?)
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The Good1948 F1: awaiting an S10 T5 tranny
The Bad1987 TC: awaiting funds for parts
And the Ugly1962 Fairlane: awaiting everything
You are right about the Auto Air. The only thing is, you have to shoot some type of clear over it to pretect it from the elements. It is not made to be a stand alone paint for automotive finishes. Createx , the makers of Auto Air, also make a paint called Createx for leathers t shirts and other textile type material. But if you shoot Auto Air on a car ,bike or anything for that matter, it has to shot with clear coat to protect it.
Coworker/friend of mine has a bunch of old B&W photos of hand painted panels and pickups. His granfather used to do all the artwork in the Duluth region. Pretty neat pics. As for the BC/CC, the BC is designed to be dull, and the CC adds the gloss. That said, the BC would probably wear/sunfade rather quickly without the CC on top.
(Ax, thanks for mentioning Street Rod Builder...I think I'm gonna look into a subscription myself. Any recommended back issues?)
Depends on what you are interested in. I have sub for ~ a year and picked up random issues off the newsstand prior when I foud them. I can look back for you. I like it especially because they show the feature vehicles being built, not just the finished vehicle. It shows just how much work was done, where and how it was done. It also doesn't cow to using advertiser's products only. Has a lot of detailed how to do its and even how to build shop equipment. More expensive sub than most but worth it IMHO.
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Passionate about autocross racing!
2003 GSL, 2005 HSL National Champion
1956 F100 Panel support/tow vehicle
2007 Solstice GXP
2002 Celica GT 2003 GSL National Champion
1999 Miata gone but not forgotten
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There's nuttin like washing and polishing a paint job you done yourself, and just bringing it back up again and again."
