Well, I've been reading all the issues here about changing the spark plugs on my 05, f150 screw with 5.4l engine and decided to ask my dealer some questions. First was quoted anywhere between $180 & $600!!!!!!!!!!. WOW! I was going to pay the $180, but then was told I was misquoted . I was thinking of just doing it myself, but have read some horror stories, although my truck only has 41000 miles. I spoke to the service manager and he explained I may be doing more harm than good. He explained that replacing the plugs now with the anti-seize lubricant will not gaurantee they won't get stuck or break later because this stuff will burn off eventually anyway. He stated that when you pull your cops out, you may compromise the integrity of the seals or even break them, and now cause other problems. Bottom line, recommended to leave things alone and deal with it when I have 100,000 miles. The cops are around $100 each plus labor, I've been told. So, looks like I'll be driving a new truck at 100,000 miles.

 

That is what I am going to do will trade before plug change, but you r dealer is way off on price I was quoted $300 and we did not discuss what happened it they broke any, I do beleive he is right on the anti seize thoug.

 

What are the "cops" you are referring to?

 

The point of using Nickel anti seize is so it won't burn off(b/c it is good for about 2,600 degrees and regular anit seize is only about 1,600).
COPs are coil on plugs....
You won't break the COPs, but there is a chance of breaking the boots(but they're a lot cheaper), and I pulled mine and the boots didn't break(and that's at 100,000 miles).

But there is a chance of making things worst by doing the plug change, expecially if one breaks!

 

Take it from someone who waited until 90K miles to decide to replace the plugs. The cost of at least removing the plugs, cleaning them and placing Anti-seize on them is much cheaper now than later. As for breaking off the boot on the COPS, place a good Di-electric grease around and inside the boot. This will help lubricate them also repel water and create a seal from water entering the plug-port. The ideal time to pull the plugs, clean them and re-apply the nickle-anti seize is about every 25K miles. Even if you wait until 50K or 60K there is a risk of breaking a plug. The dealership had quoted me $400 just to replace the plugs, that is as long as all came out with no problems. If they broke one off, I would have to pay for the additional labor charges and it could total $1,000 or better deending on how many broke. $1,000 + for a plug change...... I don't think so!!! Then on top of it.... If when the heads are pulled and they warp then you are talking about an additional $1,000 - $1,500 per head to replace. The dealers now have a removal tool to remove broken plugs out of the 3-valve 5.4L, but there is no guarentee that they will get all of the ceramic material out of the cylinders after the plugs are pulled and if all of the ceramic is not removed and flushed there is a GOOD chance you will be looking at a new engine after you get it back and score the cylinder walls.

I had 7 plugs break off when I initially removed them at 90K, I pulled the heads and basically rebuilt the top end when I reassembled it and it only ended up costing about $200 (including new gaskets, thermostat, fluids, plugs, cleaners, towels, dipstick tube, exhust gaskets and bolts, plus much, much more). I have since pulled my plugs twice cleaned them and re-applied the Anti-seize with no problems and I am pushing 150K miles on my 04 XLT 4x4 SCab. I plan on keeping the truck for at least another year due to it is only 3 years old.

The dealer had replaced the plugs due to they were defective at 1,500 miles and supposedly placed anti-seize on them but I guarentee that it was just the standard Graphite Anti-seize.

If you have an questions just ask. I will be glad to assist you any way I can.

 

GRNMSTR, you saying you pulled the heads your self? How was it?

 

It really was not that bad, you just had to be very careful not to drop them or nick the block or heads against anything. I made sure that the engine was totally cold when I did this. Plus just for security, I left the exhust manifolds still attached to them (DO NOT REMOVE THEM!!!), this keeps the heads rigid to prevent warping. Just make sure that you coat everything with oil after you remove them to prevent them from rusting. This project was not a 1 weekend project and it took about a week to make sure that everything was clean and plumb. I also took a .45 Cal pistal cleaning brush (Nylon) and honed out the plug ports to ensure that they were clean of the carbon build up (that seizes the plugs in). I used a straight punch and hammer to remove the broken plugs aafter I had the engine disassembled. All and All, it was time consuming but at least I know that it was done right and everything was throughly cleaned. Buy yourself a good haynes Manual or the FORD Tech CD (Ebay) to assist with the torque settings of everything and the Torque patterns. It was well worth it being that now I am pushing 150K miles on it and will probably have 200K by the end of the year. I would do it again if I have to.

 

Your service manager has fed you a bunch of bullcrap. While the price is reasonable, there is absolutely nothing wrong with changing your plugs before 100,000 miles. In fact, I think 50,000 miles is a more reasonable goal for the plug change. The longer those factory plugs sit in there, the more likely they are to seize up. Nickel-based anti-seize will not burn off. Removing the COPs will not compromise the integrity of the seal, unless they are re-installed improperly. If a boot does crack or break, NAPA sells them for $10 apiece.

It is not that hard of a job to do yourself if you have some patience and a few different extensions around to get into the tight places. If you insist on paying someone else to do it, find another mechanic who isn't so busy that they feed you a line of B.S.

 

Peterman, your post was perfect timing. I have been sitting on my plug change now for a couple years. My 05' has 45k and adding. Other than changing my oil and filter, I don't find myself being much of a mechanic. I read today on here and another site a complaint from someone who says his truck now sits at the dealership with a plug or two broken in the head, with 100k on the odometer. So, I drove to my local Ford Dealership here in Augusta(instead of calling) and spoke directly to the service manager. I explained to him that I would like to have them changed early due to the complaints of the plugs sticking in the 5.4 3v. He looked at me like I was from Mars or something. After the pause he looked me square in the eye and said they change plugs on this engine all the time without any problem. I again reminded him I wasn't talking about the 2v 5.4 but rather the long plug 3v. Again he said, no problems. The next thing really got me. He said they do it with the engine dead cold. He said the aluminum expands when it gets warm/hot so allowing the engine to be cold makes getting the plugs out easier on aluminum heads. I almost flipped my lid. I asked him did he read the TSB Ford has on this. Again, got the "you're stupid" look. He said he didn't know anything about a TSB but reinforced his optimism that they do it all the time with no problems. However he did say "if one should break and require more time/labor, the buck will be passed to you". This encounter has almost got me to the trading point. ALL other Ford dealers I've called/seen in the past couple years(which has been many all across Georgia) about this issue admit it and say to do it with either a warm or hot engine. I'm serious when I say I've called around and inquired. B/n this and the injectors for my 05', I don't feel I can trust my truck or the dam- service departments that want to screw it up. It's bad enough that FMC messed up the design of the plug/heads, etc., but now the service departments are either playing stupid or just flat out lying. I would rather them just be honest and admit they know about it and give me an idea of what to expect(ratios, anything). I can deal with that better than all the crap I've been hearing about how to do it(even when the TSB explains a certain way). I've known about it since 2005 so I know the ignorant service manager has heard and probably experienced it in his shop. I've enjoyed the truck so far, but the position FMC has put us in with dealing with this design problem and the lack of responsibility shown by pumping this flaw out year after year(04'-07') has ruined it for me.

 

I know exactly what you mean, just I have a $4,200 bill to go along with it!

 

Tom, which one was it, Bobby Jones or Fairway?

 

Ah, we have a local. Believe it or not, it was Bobby Jones Ford. I've used them before for warranty work on my Expedition. They fixed a bad AC Compressor that Fairway failed to fix saying they didn't hear anything and everything was working fine even though you could hear a bad grinding sound everytime the compressor kicked in. I was very surprised BJF gave me the answer they did when their moto is "The DEALER makes the difference". I'm beginning to wonder.
WilZol, where exactly are you from??

 

I'm in SoAugusta.
I've purchased a couple of new vehicles there, save for my current 08-150, and had them serviced there. Recently did a head on my wife's CV and haven't had any issues with it, looks like a 'factory' job. Really had confidence in them, but what you were told kind of puts me off about them.

I bought the current truck in Waynesoro and thought about using them for service in the future being they were small town guys and I had high hopes for great service, but the deal turned sour due to some misunderstandings with the new salesman. I still get along with them down there, but just don't trust them with my vehicles anymore, especially the CV since it's out of warranty and I came out a big winner in the deal. I don't know now why I even bught from down there as BJE never let me down in the past.

I used to know a guy at BJE, Ray, who is a tech. Not sure if he is still with them, but he has always been top shelf. If I could get him to work on my stuff I would not have any reservations at all.

 

Well since I'm not sure I'll be keeping the truck beyond 100,000 miles , I've decided to to give a go. I'll be ordering what I need and hopefully can get the job started next weekend, since I work this one. I'll keep my fingers crossed. Wish me luck. I'll post the results when done. Thanks for all the input and advise.

 

I'm all curious now as to whether having the engine cold will make any difference being it does make some sense that aluminum would expand once heated. If the aluminum expands pressing on the plugs, would it make a difference??? Being the TSB says to do with the engine warm to touch, something about a cold engine doesn't sound right. I wonder if anybody's tried to use some kind of vacuum device to help get the fragments out. Of course there would need to be some way to create a high negative pressure to pull against the shield/porceline. Heck, I've heard of some who try and blow the sucker out by cranking the engine and having the cylinder create pressure to try and pop it out. There's got to be something simple and efficient that can get the fragments out.