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lug stud replacement

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  #1  
Old 01-29-2008, 09:37 PM
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lug stud replacement

on my 1999 f-250 powerstroke truck one of the lug studs broke off passenger front rotor. my question is do I have to mess with the 4x4 to take off the rotor. your input will be appreciated.
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Old 01-29-2008, 09:41 PM
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Nah, the rotor hat just slides off after you pull the caliper, but the studs are not seated in the rotor, they are seated in the unit bearing assembly. It is a little more involved to take off. Not complicated, just time consumming.
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  #3  
Old 01-29-2008, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdrummonds
Nah, the rotor hat just slides off after you pull the caliper, but the studs are not seated in the rotor, they are seated in the unit bearing assembly. It is a little more involved to take off. Not complicated, just time consumming.
but a first time truck owner can do it you think
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  #4  
Old 01-30-2008, 08:06 PM
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proud truck. I just finished replacing 4 of mine that broke off. It's easy to do. You will need a 21mm socket to lossen the caliper, a lug wrench, jack to lift it up, and a brass hammer. About a 1 beer job, if you stretch it out. Just break loose your lug nuts, remove the wheel and loosen the top caliper mounting bolt (21mm). Then remove the bottom bolt so you can rotate the caliper out of the way and remove the rotor. There is your access to the studs. On my '02, I had to insert the new studs from the back side of the axle because the dust/debris metal piece that protects the rotors had a small relief cut there that allowed this. Line up your broken stud with this area and gently but firmly tap with a BRASS hammer outside in to remove the stud. Next, get your replacement stud and insert from the back trying to make sure the "teeth" that are near the head engage with the ones in the hole. Gently tap the new stud partially into place, just enough so that it won't dislodge when you are bumping against it to replace the rotor and the wheel Revers all steps to re-assemble and don't forget to tighten BOTH caliper bolts! Replace wheel and tighten wheel studs. When you tighten, you will notice your new one is still short a bit. Slowly wrench down on it with your lug wrench and it will seat the new stud into place. On my '02 I neede about three threads past the rim for it to be completely seated, but you will know when it is because it will be tight. Don't forget to check your lug nuts after a day or so of trying to make sure everything seated fine and re-torque if necessary. Part number for the wheel stud on my '02 F350 was F81Z1107AC

http://catalog.powerstrokeshop.com/p...ts&searchAll=1

Make sure what size yours are. Mine are 3.125" (3 and 1/8") long and all the auto parts stores had were 2.875" lengths. Had to go directly to dealer with MSRP of $8.12 each. If yours are short (2 and 7/8"), I have a few extra new ones that I can't return and would be glad to send to you. Let me know.
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Old 01-30-2008, 08:44 PM
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I think the 99 and 02's have different thread counts as well.
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Old 01-30-2008, 08:48 PM
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Good point. Wasn't sure of that myself. brwolfjr, how do you like your winter tires? just picked up a set of spare lariat rims with tires for $150 and looking to get a winter set of M/T's eventually. Torn between the Toyo and BFG. How many miles have you got on them?
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Old 01-30-2008, 08:56 PM
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So far so good. I put them on for plowing only, not that I've seen snow yet. This is my second season with them and they worked great last year. They replaced a set of GY MTR's. Mileage is unknown because I switch tires depending on season. But if I had to guess 5k and they still look new.
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Old 01-30-2008, 09:37 PM
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Not a good idea to be hammering those studs in and out.

There's some pretty-expensive bearings that you're going to be putting flat-spots on.

Pop
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Old 01-31-2008, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpringerPop
Not a good idea to be hammering those studs in and out.

There's some pretty-expensive bearings that you're going to be putting flat-spots on.

Pop
Unfortunately I had already done the deed before you gave that advice the first time. It was either that or a $600 tow. Good info for the OP though. How hard is it to pull off the hub assembly Pop?
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Old 02-01-2008, 08:05 PM
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Guzzle has a very comprehensive write-up on doing them.
http://guzzle.rbmicro.com/nblube.html

Pop
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Old 02-01-2008, 10:34 PM
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Pop- I didn't see in guzzle's write up how to remove those old wheel studs? You had said something before about that. What was it you recommended?
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  #12  
Old 10-24-2013, 05:32 PM
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So the picture below shows where I'm at. 4 broke studs & 4 slightly bent studs. How in the world do I get these things out? The Ford Shop Manual I have says to "use a suitable press to remove it from the disc brake rotor" I'm assuming they mean the hub. Do I really need a press? I don't want to damage anything with a hammer but I'm a bit up a creek here.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 10-24-2013, 05:41 PM
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A pitman arm puller might do the trick. You would have to cut the longer studs down a bit so the tool can fit.

When I changed my front hub units, I can't remember if it came with new studs or if I had to press out the old ones and reuse...
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Old 10-24-2013, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel Newb View Post
So the picture below shows where I'm at. 4 broke studs & 4 slightly bent studs. How in the world do I get these things out? The Ford Shop Manual I have says to "use a suitable press to remove it from the disc brake rotor" I'm assuming they mean the hub. Do I really need a press? I don't want to damage anything with a hammer but I'm a bit up a creek here. ....
I gotta ask...

How in the heck did you manage to do that much damage to the studs? Was the truck in a accident? Is the wheel OK? Replacing the hub units might be an easier task....
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Old 10-24-2013, 05:51 PM
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that is not good, what all did it damage?
i say new hub will be better and way faster.
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Old 10-24-2013, 05:51 PM
 
 
 
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