302 Rebuild Break In

[E30tdf]

Recommendations for break in of a new (rebuilt) motor (bored 030 over, new forged pistons, new mild performance cam, rebuilt E7 heads, edelbrock performer rpm air gap, holley 650

1) Oil ? (what works best for break in?)
2) Run at 2000 for 20 minutes I have been told to break in cam and lifters
3) How long before an oil change?
4) Anything else?

Thanks

[gearhead351]

Originally Posted by E30tdf

Recommendations for break in of a new (rebuilt) motor (bored 030 over, new forged pistons, new mild performance cam, rebuilt E7 heads, edelbrock performer rpm air gap, holley 650

1) Oil ? (what works best for break in?)
2) Run at 2000 for 20 minutes I have been told to break in cam and lifters
3) How long before an oil change?
4) Anything else?

Thanks

1. just regular oil I run 10-30w ( no synthetics on new cams and ring break in)
2.
3. I usually change it right after the cam is run in.
4. re-torque your heads, intake, exhaust bolts.

[EPNCSU2006]

I would check with your cam manufacturer to see what kind of break-in oil they recommend. I agree with gearhead, change the oil after cam break-in, then change it again after the first 500 miles or so, then you should be good to go. I've never heard of having to re-torque the head bolts, though.

[mark a.]

Don't use any oil that says " energy saving " in the spec circle. I would use Castrol HD 30. Some people use a diesel rated oil but anymore they are taking the zinc out of those too and many cams fail because of that + most lifters are China made junk. The best thing to do anymore is get a set of lifters from Reed, they still sell good Johnson & Federal lifters. As far as I'm concerened don't use anything other than Isky Rev-lube on the cam lobes & lifters. Prime it only until you feel it pumping, anything more is washing your assembly oils away which you don't want to do. Run it in as you said, shut it down & change the oil & filter before you run it again.

[doug1222556]

Re-torquing is a good idea, but if you used a Fel-pro perma-blue head gasket, it's not necessary. It really depends on the gaskets as to whether you need to re-torque or not, but it doesn't hurt.

[E30tdf]

My machine shop recommended I use a Racing Oil not approved for street use that he feels is best for break-in (as it still contains more of the protective metals that have been removed from the new oils). I was interested to see if others would make that recommendation!

[doug1222556]

Some would recommend Z-Max during break-in as well. I've never heard of using racing oil. Anything you use is going to get dirty in a hurry, so quick changes make more difference than anything, along with priming the system well with a oil pump priming rod and drill. Using the proper break-in lubes, (cam bearing lube, rod and main bearing lube, and break-in coatings on the cylinder walls, will make at least twice as much difference as what oil you use. I'ts the first few minutes that make the most difference.

[EPNCSU2006]

break-in coatings on the cylinder walls

Should just use a small amount of motor oil on the cylinder walls

[doug1222556]

Eric-I'll put Total Seal's "Quick Seal" dry lubricant up agaisnt a light coat of motor oil anyday.

[EPNCSU2006]

I usually leave the cylinder walls dry, and use motor oil on the piston skirts, leaving the rings dry. I work at a race engine shop, and watching one of the engine builders the other day noticed that he gave each cylinder wall a small squirt of oil, so I may have to try that on my next personal engine. I'll have to take a look at this quick seal to see what it is supposed to do.

[R-WEST]

This from an old geezer who's been retired from the engine building ranks for about 20 years (wow, where'd that time go?), now, so, take these suggestions for what they cost you. Never had any problems, except for the time my brother dropped the carb stem washer down into a 302 and ran it anyway. It worked for about 50 miles, 'til the washer got into the #7 cylinder.

I always set up a window fan a bit in front of the radiator, to ensure a good flow of fresh air in there. New engines with snug tolerances tend to run a bit warm initially, and you don't want it to overheat.

I'd always try to get the timing set ASAP. You don't want it running way off in either direction.

I'd try to vary the engine RPM between 1500 - 2200 or so for the first 15-20 minutes, to change loads on things and vary the oil flow. Helps to prevent glazing the cylinder walls, too.

The subject of cylinder wall lube is probably as much art as science. Depending on the rings (moly, cast, chrome, etc..), I've seen guys use everything from ATF to their own "special" concoctions. It's hard to argue with a guy who's used a certain product, and never had a problem, y'know? We just rubbed a bit of whatever oil the engine was going to live on (Castrol GTX 10-30, primarily) on the cylinder walls, and never had any problems. I couldn't imagine doing one with no lube at all.

That Castrol 30HD has quite a cult following, based on what I've read, but I have no personal experience with it.

After we shut it down, we'd let it sit overnight, if at all possible, to cool completely, then re-check torque on everything we could get to. It may have been over-done, but, that's how we did it. Amazing how things can change after the initial heat/cool cycle.