As some have already read, I've been having problems with a "No Start" every once in awhile. 5 months ago when I first bought this truck, it would do a No Start for a week or two.. from there on out, it hasn't done it since then.

I usually get the no start after the truck has previously already been warmed up. Although, this doesn't mean it won't do it when its cold, its just has only so far occured when the engine has been warm. For instance today, I drove down to Advance Auto Parts store, shut the truck down, ran in the store, and came back out. I went to start the truck and it would just crank and crank.. won't start.

I previously pulled codes about 5 months ago and was getting a 1212 ICP sensor failure code. I bought a new sensor but never installed it as the problem went away. I then was having problems with my remote start system.. it would just start the truck randomly sometimes without hitting the start button. I figured it was the module for the remote start/alarm system going bad.. also causing the No start every once in a blue moon.

I've been getting this "no start" problem almost 2-3 times a week for the last week and a half... about the same when it happened 5 months ago then cleared up and hasn't happened since now.

So, when it occured again today, I had a game plan. I first ripped out the remote start module (completely disconnected the power source). Went to start it and it would just crank.. no start. I then popped the hood and disconnected the ICP sensor wire. Still won't start... At this point, I wasn't sure what to do and realized it's something else causing this random no start. It always eventually starts with in 2-15 minutes. Sometimes I will crank it over 3 separate times and on the 4th, it fires right up. Others, it can be several attempts and then it just starts.

Any ideas? I just don't want my luck to run out one of these times and be stranded when it doesn't start at all. Plus, it's very annoying when it does happen.

 

I am going to say Camshaft Position Sensor!!! Change it out and see what happens.

 

Not sure if its the CPS sensor.. the previous owned told me he replaced the CPS once the new and improved CPS sensors came out. I still have the old one in the glove box and the truck only has about 3,500 miles on it since it was changed.

 

Trailblazer,

It was a guess because you stated the issue was occuring when the engine was warm and not cold. CPS tend to act up when the engine is warm.

What about the batteries? Have you replaced or checked those lately? And the alternator? Have you tested that.

I know is sounds really simple and stupid but I have chased electrical problems only to find it was weak batteries and bad alternators.

 

It very well could be the CPS then if it usually acts up when the engine is warm. I thought if the CPS sensor starts to go bad, it will shut the truck down while driving. Thankfully, that has yet to happen.

The batteries are good and alternator is good also. When the no start happens, it cranks over normal, not a slow turn over... reminds me of a no spark issue on gas engines.

 

I had a no start problem after I changed 1 battery because the it sound like it was not turning the engine over like normal. Every time it would not start I would hear a tic, tic, tic, sound. so if I hear this sound I knew it would not start. I had my dealer service department check it out and they said it was a bad connection on one of my batteries. since it did not slow down my cranking I would not believe it was my batteries. I tried everything I could think of to solve the problem. Then I desided to change the other battery. Guess what, no more starting problems. So my advice is to change both batteries if whenever if one goes bad. nuff said...........

 

The next time you have a no start pull the plug on the top of the HPOP and check the oil level it should be with in 3/4" of the top.

 

Trailblazed, I had a new Grey CPS and was having problems with it once in awhile it would start bucking real bad and throw SES. Hot or cold. Got new CPS from dealer and no probs since then. Cheap fix, just glad I didn't get stranded somewhere. Dave

 

Well code 1212 indicates this per our fine site: P1212 ICP Voltage Not at Expected Level. Now, I saw this code for the first time today after an injector change and if memory serves, my AE showed it as low ICP during cranking. So despite having a low HPOP level, mine did crank and start. If the LPOP will not make available oil, then it is suspect. Again, check the HPOP oil level but your LPOP may not be up to the task anymore. Does the gauge move at all when cranking? If not, the LPOP may be shot That is the oil pressure gauge on the dash I am referring to.

 

Yes, the gauge will move up after I crank it for about 6 revolutions. I'll pull the HPOP plug and check the level next time it happens. I just changed the oil yesterday so well see what happens.

Batteries, I can't really see them being the problem. I'd be more convinced it was the batteries if the truck didn't start back up. However, it cranks fast, and will eventually start all the time. You would think if a battery was low on vts, it would only get worse trying to crank it over several different tries to start it.. but it doesn't. Plus, why would it happen when its warm vs. a cold 10 degree start up.

As far as the CPS, I'm going to buy a new one just in case that is possibly the problem. I have never had any problems so far while driving, no bucking, stalling, hesitating, etc. Once she's running, she fly's!

 

Like I said before, I had the same problem, Listen real close, if you hear a ticking or clicking sound when you first try to start and will not start it is the batteries. It will spin the motor as if nothing is wrong with them, but it will not start. I had a hard time to believe it was the other battery because it checked good. But once I changed the other one, no more tic, tic and the problem went away.
When I had the dealer check my truck they cleaned the terminals and it was OK for about a week, then the starting problem returned. May be just your battery terminals.
Keep us posted what you find out to fix your problem..

 

I haven't heard any ticking noises but I'll check the batteries next time it happens. When you battery was weak, did it still start up after awhile? When I bought the truck, the previous owner had just put in a brand new battery, only on the passengers side... not the drivers side. I'm actually probably going to replace that drivers battery very soon as I've been told to change both at the same time. The other battery is 5 months old. Still, I haven't had any problems with the batteries, atleast I don't think.

 

I was always able to start it, but not when the ticking sound occurs. like the 2nd or 3rd try. It gave me no indication that the battery was weak. That is the same battery I changed first then the no start problem started. I could hear the ticking sound from somewhere under the dash. Don't know if that is your problem but think it is best to change both batteries when one goes out. Good luck.

 

Okay, well it happened again yesterday at the post office. I should of kept the truck running since it wasn't yet completely warmed up but I didn't. I came back out and it would not start. Same thing as always... Its random.

I popped the hood, pulled the ICP connector, tried starting,,, nothing. I plugged it back in and drained the fuel filter water separator while I was at it. Went back in the truck, still won't start. I of course didn't have the right tools on me to pull the HPOP plug and check the level of the oil. If I crank the engine over for a couple seconds, the oil gauge does go up.

I sat there for about 20 minutes, briefly trying to start the engine.. if it was going to start, it would start in the first couple revolutions. As I was sitting in the truck bored and cold, I decided to go pull the stupid ICP connector again. I jumped back in the truck, turned the key, and it started. I'm not sure if pulling it had anything to do with it or not as I pulled it the first time around and it won't start. Like always, it starts, just very annoying when this happens.

As of right now I still have the ICP sensor disconnected. Is it okay to run it disconnected for awhile? I'm trying to see if this no start occurs again while its disconnected. Either way, I'm gonna replace the ICP sensor but there was no sign of oil on the sensor or connector.. which I'm told is a common sign of a bad sensor.

Also, its not the batteries, they would of been dead from all the starting attempts if they were weak. No clicking noises, etc.

 

Any other thoughts or ideas?