whats needed to make a 6.9 run
#1
whats needed to make a 6.9 run
ok guys ive spent a couple days looking but havent found much yet aside from the obvious fuel do you need to swap over an entire harness when converting to a diesel from a 351w or is there some way to bypass that step, such as toggles push buttons and relays. the truck undergoing the knife is a 1987 f250 hd with a c6 and the donor vehicle is a 1987 f250 anyhelp would be greatly apreciated. also i dont know if it makes a differance but the glow plugs are all burnt out so those will be replaced and the donor truck has been sitting about 9 months. thanks again. -don
#2
#6
There are three wires on the IP that need to be hooked up. on the right or passenger side of the IP in the engine block You will find a temp sending unit the fast idle solenoid and timing advance hook to one side of that the other side gets hooked to the same hot wire Your going to hook to the fuel shut off solenoid. The glow plugs can be hooked to a ford starter solenoid and a starter button.
#7
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#8
i have the entire harness and dash board and everything the only problem is my dash is different even though both trucks are 87's the front ends are different to the donor has a 86 looking front end and i have the 87-91 front end so im trying to do this the easyist way possible, but any input would be appreciated thanks
Last edited by donaldderby; 01-28-2008 at 07:40 PM.
#9
There is a plug on the end of the engine harness where it plugs into the chassis harness.
At that plug, fined a red wire with a green stripe, that is the wire you splice the ignition wire to.
It will power both the timing advance switch and the fuel shut off solenoid.
I can't find my wire colors for the sending units, so here is a picture of the locations for the overheat light and the temp sending unit.
I eliminated the temp sender on mine and installed a mechanical coolant temp gauge.
Real numbers and much more accuracy.
The oil sending unit is located at the back center of the engine against the fire wall.
You can get the wire color there.
That is another gauge I scrapped for a mechanical gauge, once again real numbers that mean something.
On the 86, the glow plug relay is mounted behind the passenger side battery.
Two big orange wires with white stripes.
Those wires need to be extended to a location where you can mount the relay.
They attach to one of the big terminals.
The other big terminal gets a wire, 4 AWG from the positive battery post.
The stock controller leaves a bit to desire, so I converted mine to manual control.
To do that, pick up power under the dash from a location that is only hot when the key is ON.
Run that to a momentary switch and attach to one terminal.
Attach a wire to the other terminal and run it out to the glow plug relay and attach it to one of the small terminals.
The other small terminal gets a wire running to ground.
Tp operate the glow plugs,
Key to ON
Push the momentary switch for 10 seconds
Start the engine.
I did not go into the alternator wiring, but that will get the engine running.
At that plug, fined a red wire with a green stripe, that is the wire you splice the ignition wire to.
It will power both the timing advance switch and the fuel shut off solenoid.
I can't find my wire colors for the sending units, so here is a picture of the locations for the overheat light and the temp sending unit.
I eliminated the temp sender on mine and installed a mechanical coolant temp gauge.
Real numbers and much more accuracy.
The oil sending unit is located at the back center of the engine against the fire wall.
You can get the wire color there.
That is another gauge I scrapped for a mechanical gauge, once again real numbers that mean something.
On the 86, the glow plug relay is mounted behind the passenger side battery.
Two big orange wires with white stripes.
Those wires need to be extended to a location where you can mount the relay.
They attach to one of the big terminals.
The other big terminal gets a wire, 4 AWG from the positive battery post.
The stock controller leaves a bit to desire, so I converted mine to manual control.
To do that, pick up power under the dash from a location that is only hot when the key is ON.
Run that to a momentary switch and attach to one terminal.
Attach a wire to the other terminal and run it out to the glow plug relay and attach it to one of the small terminals.
The other small terminal gets a wire running to ground.
Tp operate the glow plugs,
Key to ON
Push the momentary switch for 10 seconds
Start the engine.
I did not go into the alternator wiring, but that will get the engine running.
Last edited by Dave Sponaugle; 01-28-2008 at 09:20 PM.
#10
#12
Ok guys the trannys almost comlete just waiting on some bearings, and im trying to get all of the electrical out of the way before hand, im going with all after market gauges so that wont be a problem my only question is does any body know how to wire up the alternator it is the 100amp externally regulated version regualtor number EATF-10316-AA NEG any help will be appreciated. thanks for the help
don
don
Last edited by donaldderby; 02-17-2008 at 01:10 PM. Reason: forgot part number
#14
There are three wires on the IP that need to be hooked up. on the right or passenger side of the IP in the engine block You will find a temp sending unit the fast idle solenoid and timing advance hook to one side of that the other side gets hooked to the same hot wire Your going to hook to the fuel shut off solenoid. The glow plugs can be hooked to a ford starter solenoid and a starter button.
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