Hi all,

I'm having trouble getting out the rear fender bolts. These are the ones that look as if they are pressed into the side of the bed. I'm not talking about the fender nuts, since I got those out without too much trouble. I tried to pound the bolts out after soaking them in liquid wrench, but they are not budging. I'm afraid to pound on it since I'm worried about damaging the bed-side, and I'm sure I'd dent it pretty bad if I used an air chisel.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance for your help.

 

If your truck is a 53-60, those bolts are spotwelded to the bedside. That's why you can't get them out.

 

Randy,

Thanks. Is drilling and grinding the best way to get them out?

 

afraid so... messy, tedious job.

 

So in other words I better not break off any more bolts......
It sounds like a serious job to get them out.

 

Yep. The most efficient way that I have seen is to center drill the head, (from inside the bed), about 1/8" deep with a 5/16" drill. If you get it all centered, the remainder of the stud may just drop off. If not, it will "work off" by bending the stud back/forth. The remainder of the head might be sheared off using a chisel and hammer. If the spotweld guy had a heavy hand, then grinding the rest of the head off may be in order. Be careful of the heat you will generate if you care about the paint.

Why do you want them off? I have seen polished stainless button head screws used instead of the factory weld studs. They look nice, but you'll need a buddy to help you install the fenders.

 

If they aren't stripped or broken off, don't take them out! If you have to replace the stud, leave the washer-head in place, drill like RJ says above.

 

I have the SS button heads on my '49. Worked out real well.
I think there is a picture in my gallery. Getting the old ones out is a PITA !

 

hhmmm looks like I got my work cut out for me...when I unbolted the fenders I broke 5 on one side and 4 on the other!!

 

Randy,

I'm replacing the fender with 3" wider glass ones. The Mid-Fifty catalog recommends longer bolts when using glass fenders. They are shipping my fenders, so I will take a look when they get here. I definitely will not replace them if I don't have to.

 

Bring this old thread back to the top so I can ask those that have removed the bolts how successful their mission was. I have ordered a set of 2" wider FG rear fenders for my 48, but I am using a bed from a 53 and will need to change the bolt hole locations.

There are also a number of the old bolts that had been previously broken off so I am planning on removing all the 53 fender bolts and then filling the holes and then marking and re-drilling the holes for the new FG 48 fenders once they arrive. Is the option to drill through the heads of the welded studs, them chisel or grind the heads the best option?

Tip 49, how are you going about marking up the holes for your rear fenders on your new bed?

Thanks,

Nick

 

I'm using 'glass stock-width fenders and the stock studs (what few are left) work OK. Part of mid-Fifties' recommendation probably has to do with using heavy washers under the nut to spread load on the 'glass flange. I was tempted to use 3/4" wide by 1/8" thick plates to further spread the load. Add a lockwasher and the stock studs are marginal in length.

One thing, most glass fenders aren't drilled for the fender bolts (they have "dimples" in the flange in the stock locations), and it would be tough to try to drill from the outside of the bed/inside the fender ( maybe easier on the wider ones). I'd guess you could drill the fender, hold it up and mark the holes that way, but I don't know how you'd hold the fenders in place accurately.

 

How about making a cardboard template of the fender flange, then holding that up to the bedside over the studs and tapping over the studs to make an impression on the template. Drill out the impressions and check the fit, then transfer the holes onto the fender flange?

Just a thought. Having a second pair of hand to steady the template would be a lot of help, too.

 

Removing the bolts is VERY easy - I took an air chisel, with the "split" bit, a couple seconds on each side of the bolt "head" from the inside of the bed, and they popped right off. No damage whatsoever to the bed, had all 24 or so done in about 5 minutes. No drilling, no sweating, no problem.

R

 

Kusto;

I am using my original fenders, front and rear. I had to "rebuild" (insert replace) my bedsides. Once I had both sides fabbed, and before assembly to front and rear panels; I laid them on the floor, measured tne hole placement on the stock lower portions of the bedsides, lined up the fenders with these locations, and then marked all remaining holes. To date I have only pilot drilled all the fender bolt locations, until I get the box on the frame. If Im satisfied with the alignment, I'll drill out bolt holes in box. I'm hoping the fenders look good with my differential location , as there isn't much room to move the fenders forward or aft. I spoke with a body man about welding the bolts to box, he said there are pressure fit washers available on newer vehicles that fit over the bolts from the inside, instead of spot welding. Its something I will look into. I don't finish shift for another 4 days, hope to get some work on box so I can set it on frame before month end. I'll post any progress.

Later

Tom