Is it the four bolt mains that make the difference or is
the crank different between the 4 bolt and the 2 bolt ?
Has anybody heard if a two bolt crank breaking because of too much power. I'm just curious what kind of HP and torque the stock two bolt will take, maby 550-600 HP or so?
What kind of power are some of you guys making with it.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 10-Jan-02 AT 09:45 AM (EST)]There is no such thing as a factory 4 bolt main 460.. Only a 429CJ -SCJ... You want a 4 bolt "460" block you need to get a SVO block from Ford. The 460 crank can take just about anything you can put to it... Just don't turn it above 7500 rpm...Remember it's a cast crankshaft... If your gonna turn above 6500 on a regular basis you need to make sure it's straight, deburred, shotpeened , indexed, equalized strokes, cross drilled, oil holes chamfered and micropolished... It's alot to have done, but it's a cast crank...As for the two bolt 460 block -- have it aligned honed with ARP studs and it will take plenty of abuse...For a performance application internal balancing is always better...Makes it alot easier if you decide the change flexplates,flywheels, pressure plates or balancers if its internally balanced...
If you had one internally balanced and one externally balanced 460 side by side what would the difference be. How do you tell the internally balanced from the externally ?
I have two, one is a 76 and I think the other is a 77.
On the internally balanced engine there is a spacer behind the harmonic balancer that is just round, however on the externally balanced engine that same spacer has a counterweight sticking out from it.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 13-Jan-02 AT 10:46 PM (EST)]You will be surprised how much abuse a stock 460 crank can take. Lots of the 514's were built with stock 460 cranks offset ground and No2 pour on them. And they were not shotpeened, nor crossed drilled nor nitrided. As mentioned, the key is to say below 7500rpm.
Metro, they are now saying external balancing might be better for most applications like here. The flex is on the ends not in the middle where a crank tends to break.
One more thing, generally it is cheaper to externally balance a crank. Not always, but most times.
Speaking from experiance...do not use a stroked 2Y cranks for racing, it WILL break...it just a matter of time. If your not going to buy an aftermnarket steel crank then stroke a 3Y crank, they have much smaller holes in the rod journal area and thereby much stronger when off-set ground. A stock stroke 460 crank should be good for 700-800 HP if you use the best of everything...clevite bearings, balanced assembly, restricted oil flow to the upper end, 4-bolt block(prefered) or at least
ARP main cap studs. I saw evedence of "cap-walk" even on my SCJ 4-bolt bottom end with 3Y stroked crank (514 ci.). I spun it to 7,600 RPM many a time. Deen
My plans are to just have the stock crank turned and shotpeened, I am not building a stroker. I am going to have Milodon splayed 4 bolt main caps put in the block. I hope this will be strong enough for 700-750HP.
Thanks for the info guys
I have a 460 .60 over bore,460 crank. balanced, dove heads ported and polished,stalth intake,crane solid,cam 624 lift 276 dur, deamon carb,at6000 it is 624 hp 546 torque have ran it 4 years with no trouble mud raceing
If you plan to run it above 6000rpm, it'll be the rods that give you problems, not the crank. There are a ton of boats out there running stock (balanced, polished, oil holes done) cranks and 2-bolt blocks at 5-650hp wide-open all day long, but above that takes rpms in excess of what the stock or CJ/Truck rods will handle. 460 crank failure for balanced and properly prepared engines that stay around 6000rpm with stock rods and way above that with aftermarket rods just isn't that common.