Exactly, no reason to check for warped heads if they're sealing now and the leak-down/comb test checked out fine. Your method should work just fine as long as you have the needed clearance. Just take note if the Tq specs are with 30wt. oil or ARP's Moly lube...they give both usually for head studs. And use a quality 'calibrated' Tq wrench (not a Craftsman!). Percision Instruments makes high quality Tq wrenches costing ~mid $100s...they used to make all the Tq wrenches for Snap On for decades (comnpare their split-beam wrenches, same thing, diff colored inserts is the only diff, red vs blue)...after Snap On switched suppliers a couple years ago PI went into business for themselves using said name since up to that point Snap On was their only customer. I see people pay over $200 for used split-beam type Snap On Tq wrenches on Ebay all day long, when they could buy the same exact split-beam wrench simply tagged with a diff name brand new for less. Best of luck w/the project!
Thanks for the feedback and the vote of confidence. I have used ARP studs before and am familar with 30W oil and ARP moly torque specs. In fact I use ARP moly on just about everythng I reassemble that requires torque and have switched to a Case/IH moly grease for all of my farm equipment.
I have not looked at the passenger side clearance issue and it may be a show stopper for me. What I may have to do is disconnect the passenger motor mount and jack the engine over slightly to get the clearance. Again, I'm not a novice so I will evaluate before I start tearing the X apart.
Yeah, I have a Craftsman torque wrench now but it has been rode hard and put away wet. Time for a new wrench before I do this job and I'll look at PI. Thanks for the recommendation.
My problem is finding the personal time and time to put the X down to do the job. When I start I'll post progress reports and problems as they unfold but probably will not be until mid summer.
DSMMH
__________________
04 EXCURSION LTD: 4X4, 6.0L PSD, JUICE w/Tude, Jobe Intake, Elbow Upgrade, ZOODAD, MBRP T-Back, Bilstiens, Hawks, Cryos, Prodigy, Remote Starter, Red OPTIMAs, 30MM Sway Bar, WAAG FB Guard, Dual Steering Stabilizers, Fuel Cross Over Line, PML Tranny Pan, Coolant Filter, 160 AMP Alt Upgrade, LANDYOT Radius Rods and RP Synthetics.
I have asked the same question before (8-05-06 post) and have got "no don't do it" from the ford techs to "one guy who has done it to a couple of trucks with success". I plan to buy the stud kit and do the job with the heads in place this spring or summer. I just did a combustion gas test on the X and there is no HG leakage after 60,000 miles running a Edge tuner since 15,000 miles. Since I have an X, pulling the cab is not an option. I plan on pulling the radiator, IC and fan. I believe that will allow for me to stand in front of the motor and reach the bolts, replacing them one at a time. I'll have to look at the rear bolts to be sure there is enough clearance between the motor and firewall. I plan to buy or make an extension for a tap so I can clean out the holes. Then make an adapter with a piece of tygon tubing to vacuum out the tap residue from the bolt holes. I going to start by removing the last OEM bolt in the ford recommended torque pattern and work my way to #1. I plan on torquing each stud nut to the MAX recommended ARP value. Then after all studs are installed and tight, I'm going to loosen each stud nut one at a time and starting with #1, retorque to the MAX ARP value. By removing the OEM bolts one at a time there is no way, IMHO, that you could loosen the HG or warp the head with the remaining bolts in place. My biggest problem is finding the time to do the job but I am going to do the job provided I can get to the bolts with out having to remove the engine.
DSMMH
Just a few things on this subject.
First is the even with an X pulling the cab is totally doable if you have access to a lift (Matt and myself did it in less than 4 hours and we were not killing ourselves by any stretch).
Second if you are replacing just the head bolts you have to remove the heads and set the back bolts in place and hold them up with elastics or something simlar, I think you'd have to do the same thing with studs but either way the heads have to come off and you'd be disturbing the gaskets. The passenger side on the X is very tight quarters due to all the A/C stuff Ford crammed in there.
Third, if you've got the rad, intake piping, intercooler, A/C condenser, etc all out of the way, why wouldn't you go ahead and pull the engine, it's on bell housing bolts, torque converter bolts and motor mounts after that; then everything is easy access.
My honest opinion is that is in this case, trying to do studs, without replacing the gaskets and checking head flatness is a situation of tripping over dollars to save dimes. If you can get access to a lift this job would be easily doable in a weekend, and if pushed probably in one day. If not probably 2-3 days. If the head were/are sealing effectively they are likely OK warpage wise but the should still be checked if you've got them off the truck.
I do not want to be a naysayer, but I really feel that this job is best done either with the body off or the engine out. It is simply the best way to ensure the best quality workmanship.
Good luck, I am very interested to hear how the job goes for you.
Last edited by 04Xcursion : 01-28-2008 at 12:31 AM.
I have never done head studs before, but they can be done without pulling the cab or the engine, you have to remove that big black box with the ac evaporator coil and everthing. I dont think there is a way to pull individual bolts and replace with stud, because there is not enough clearance.m when you pull heads without removing the cab or engine you have to rubber band the back 2 bolts or studs and remove them with the head. I plan on doing this in the near future.
I'm going to leave my headbolts in until my SCT decides they need to be upgraded At that time I'll pull the cab and do headgaskets and studs, EGR delete, and whatever else I can think of. With that said, I don't see a reason this wouldn't work. I would install the studs, torque them to near stock headbolt torque, then when all are done I'd go back around and torque to ARP spec (it should be higher torque spec).
__________________
2003 F250 FX4 Sport, 6.0L Diesel, TorqShift Auto
- 4" Donahoe Racing springs, Bilstein shocks, 35" tires
- Off Road Tech winch bumper, powdercoated white
- SCT Xcal2 with Spartan tunes (ASE)
Join Our Site - Its free, quick and easy!
At that time I'll pull the cab and do headgaskets and studs, EGR delete, and whatever else I can think of. With that said, I don't see a reason this wouldn't work. I would install the studs, torque them to near stock headbolt torque, then when all are done I'd go back around and torque to ARP spec (it should be higher torque spec).
