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Old 01-19-2008, 09:06 PM
Marty's 97 F-150 Marty's 97 F-150 is offline
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97 F150 Door jamb switch for interior lights-Where is it?

My 97 F150 will only have the interior lights come on when you open the passenger door. When the drivers door is opened there are no lights. Where is the switch in the door jamb so I can check to see if that is the problem? Thanks
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Old 01-19-2008, 09:28 PM
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superdutymj superdutymj is offline
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its all in the door latch assembly. You might try spraying some electrical cleaner in there to see if its just stuck. Spray inside the latch hole and slam the door a few times and it will probably work.
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Old 01-20-2008, 05:54 AM
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ncranchero ncranchero is offline
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steve.mckellop
Yep, spraying them with electronic/brake cleaner, repeating with WD40/Deep Creep/etc and slamming the heck out of the door a few times generally cures the problem. But since you asked, here's the location of the switch.

Click the image to open in full size.

1- Interior Lamp Switch
2- Door Ajar Warning Switch
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'94 F150 4x4 4.9L/5-speed/3.55(H9) 166K miles
'00 Taurus SES DOHC 87K miles
'02 Escape XLT 3.0/auto 165K miles
'10 TRANSIT Connect 210K miles

Last edited by ncranchero; 01-20-2008 at 05:58 AM.
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Old 01-20-2008, 08:07 AM
Marty's 97 F-150 Marty's 97 F-150 is offline
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Thanks for the info guys. I will try that today
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Old 01-20-2008, 11:53 AM
Marty's 97 F-150 Marty's 97 F-150 is offline
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I just sprayed the heck out of the latch with brake clean and did the same with a good penetrant and slammed the door a few times quite hard and still it does not work. Are there any other quick things I can try or is there something wrong in the switch itself. If I have to live with it as as it is not a big deal. Just wanted to rule out all the easy fixes first. Thanks again
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Old 01-20-2008, 11:57 AM
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superdutymj superdutymj is offline
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Can you just replace that switch or is it built into the latch? i dont know i've never heard of it going completely out. You shouldn't use brakleen on the latch. It'll eat your paint, eat the insulation off your wires, and wash the grease out of your latch. You might unbolt the latch and pull it out and see if the part is replaceable or if you just have to buy a new latch. I'd go to the salvage yard on that one.
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-2005 F-150 Scab 4x4 5.4 XLT. Leveling kit, grille guard Reflexxion cowl induction hood
-1994 D3500 dually. 12v cummins. 4" straight pipe, BHAF, modded P7100. Marine Injectors.
-1995 F-350 SRW 2wd 460 5spd CrewCab Longbed XLT. "Short-Timer"
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:23 PM
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ncranchero ncranchero is offline
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steve.mckellop
Quote:
Originally Posted by superdutymj
You shouldn't use brakleen on the latch. It'll eat your paint, eat the insulation off your wires, and wash the grease out of your latch.
You're not soaking wires or paint, just rinsing it off. I don't know what kind of brake cleaner you use but what I use doesn't hurt paint or wiring insulation just rinsing it. It will wash the grease out .... along with the hardened grime that's causing the switch not to work. You should replenish the grease in the latch once you're done.
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'94 F150 4x4 4.9L/5-speed/3.55(H9) 166K miles
'00 Taurus SES DOHC 87K miles
'02 Escape XLT 3.0/auto 165K miles
'10 TRANSIT Connect 210K miles
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:27 PM
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superdutymj superdutymj is offline
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I use CRC brakleen, and that stuff will eat the sealer off the cement floor if you get carried away. It says right on the can not to use it on painted surfaces or electrical parts.
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-2005 F-150 Scab 4x4 5.4 XLT. Leveling kit, grille guard Reflexxion cowl induction hood
-1994 D3500 dually. 12v cummins. 4" straight pipe, BHAF, modded P7100. Marine Injectors.
-1995 F-350 SRW 2wd 460 5spd CrewCab Longbed XLT. "Short-Timer"
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:33 PM
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steve.mckellop
Quote:
Originally Posted by superdutymj
I use CRC brakleen, and that stuff will eat the sealer off the cement floor if you get carried away. It says right on the can not to use it on painted surfaces or electrical parts.
Then I wouldn't use it if I were you........
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'94 F150 4x4 4.9L/5-speed/3.55(H9) 166K miles
'00 Taurus SES DOHC 87K miles
'02 Escape XLT 3.0/auto 165K miles
'10 TRANSIT Connect 210K miles
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:45 PM
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superdutymj superdutymj is offline
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lol that's what i was trying to say !
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-2005 F-150 Scab 4x4 5.4 XLT. Leveling kit, grille guard Reflexxion cowl induction hood
-1994 D3500 dually. 12v cummins. 4" straight pipe, BHAF, modded P7100. Marine Injectors.
-1995 F-350 SRW 2wd 460 5spd CrewCab Longbed XLT. "Short-Timer"
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:59 PM
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steve.mckellop
It just depends on what one chooses to buy/use.
FYI:
CRC 05152 BrakleenŽ Brake Parts Cleaner, SCAQMD #1171 Compliant,
K&W (by CRC) 401424 Professional Strength Brake Cleaner Non-Chlorinated,
are both plastic,and concrete,safe.

Quoted from CRC Industries site:
"ABS, disc, drum, all brake systems, backing plates, brake cylinders, brake drums, brake linings, brake pad contact points, brake parts, brake shoes, brakes (mechanical), clutch discs, concrete, cylinders, discs, general degreasing & oil removal.
Plastic Safe Yes"
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Steve,
'94 F150 4x4 4.9L/5-speed/3.55(H9) 166K miles
'00 Taurus SES DOHC 87K miles
'02 Escape XLT 3.0/auto 165K miles
'10 TRANSIT Connect 210K miles
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Old 01-20-2008, 01:18 PM
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superdutymj superdutymj is offline
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Concrete yes, sealed concrete no. It eats the sealant off the floor of the shop that i work at, and it's supposed to be solvent proof! Was just trying to say that brakleen isn't a good idea on painted surfaces.
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-2005 F-150 Scab 4x4 5.4 XLT. Leveling kit, grille guard Reflexxion cowl induction hood
-1994 D3500 dually. 12v cummins. 4" straight pipe, BHAF, modded P7100. Marine Injectors.
-1995 F-350 SRW 2wd 460 5spd CrewCab Longbed XLT. "Short-Timer"
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Old 01-20-2008, 01:21 PM
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superdutymj superdutymj is offline
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The nonchlorinated brakleen is supposed to be safe for plastic and concrete and whatever else, i'm talking the full strength brakleen that does have chlorine in it. The nonchlorinated doen't work as well for much of anything.
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-2005 F-150 Scab 4x4 5.4 XLT. Leveling kit, grille guard Reflexxion cowl induction hood
-1994 D3500 dually. 12v cummins. 4" straight pipe, BHAF, modded P7100. Marine Injectors.
-1995 F-350 SRW 2wd 460 5spd CrewCab Longbed XLT. "Short-Timer"
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Old 01-20-2008, 01:25 PM
antony25 antony25 is offline
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The concern you describe points to an open circuit not a sticking switch. Try moving the bellows in the door jamb and see if the light comes on. Broken wires in the bellows is common.
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Old 01-20-2008, 01:44 PM
Marty's 97 F-150 Marty's 97 F-150 is offline
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What are the bellows in the door jamb? I will try that next once I am clear on what I am looking for.
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Old 01-20-2008, 01:44 PM
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