OK guys, here's the situation that I'm dealing with and I'd appreciate any input and discussion. I know the description is going to get a little wordy and long winded but I'll try to describe it accurately so everyone will hopefully get a clear idea what I'm talking about.

I have the ESP pre/post luber system and the Oilguard EPS-60 bypass filter sitting here on the floor and I'm trying to figure out the best way of running them as a combined system installation. The objective is to have the ESP supply filtered oil to the engine galleries before I even start cranking the engine over and to maintain oil pressure after engine shutdown while at the same time having the bypass filter in service. I want to minimize the amount of plumbing and entry points into the oil system for reliability.

ESP Pre/Post Luber System:

This system uses an electric oil pump with a controller to allow for adjustment of both pre and post lubrication run times, 1/2" Push-Lock hose for both suction and discharge sides and a discharge check valve along with a variety of brass fittings threaded in both 1/2" and 3/8" NPT. The Push-Lock fittings are straight pipe thread to 1/2" hose barb and do not have swivel ends. I have a screw on cartrige filter head and 5 micron hydraulic filter that I will use on the discharge side of the pump so that I don't send unfiltered oil to the engine. I also have a pair of 1/2" ball valves(coolant bypass filter valves) that can be installed anywhere in the system, such as isolation valves for changing the filter or isolating the entire system.

The ESP system takes a suction off a replacement oil drain plug that resembles a Tee fitting. Both branches of this fitting are tapped for 3/8" NPT. One branch is used as a normal engine oil drain point. I have a 3/8" elbow fitting(M to F) that I will install a Fumoto drain valve in for oil changes. The other branch is used as the suction for the ESP pump. A section of 1/2" hose is run as the suction line from the drain fitting to the pump. On the discharge side of the pump will be the check valve, hydraulic filter, and more 1/2" hose which will feed oil into the engine. Common points used to supply oil to the engine are the oil pressure sending unit port via a Tee fitting, an oil filter adaptor plate(not available for this application), or a oil pressure test port.

Oilguard Bypass Filter System:

The Oilguard system is well known on this site, using steel and brass fittings and 1/4" Push-Lock hose for supply and return lines. The Push-Lock fittings are straight JIC to 1/4" hose barb and have swivel ends. It uses a fine filter that takes oil from the top of the engine oil filter cap and returns it to the oil fill neck. To accomplish this it uses billet aluminum replacement covers for both. The oil filter cap is tapped 1/8" NPT and uses a pipe to JIC elbow fitting and a swivel end Push-Lock hose barb so that the supply hose can be removed and the cap unscrewed when changing oil filters. The fill neck cap is likewise tapped 1/8" NPT, uses a pipe to JIC elbow fitting and swivel end hose barb. The return line does not need to be removed when taking the fill neck cap off due to component design and the fact that the return oil line is not under pressure like the supply line is.

System Integration:

This is how I am thinking about integrating the two systems. I would like to take the discharge from the ESP pump and return it to the Oilguard replacement oil filter cap using 1/2" Push-Lock hose. I don't think that the current 1/8" NPT hole is big enough to allow the ESP pump to build engine oil pressure up enough, so I would need to drill the cap out and retap it. I would have to find out if there are pipe to JIC fittings available in either 1/2" or 3/8" NPT and I would need a swivel end 1/2" Push-Lock hose barb. This would allow normal functioning of the billet cap like the Oilguard system but with a larger hose. I would use a Tee fitting in this line somewhere closer to the Oilguard filter so that it would still be supplied with oil flow whenever the oil system was pressurized, either from the ESP pump or the engine oil pump. Oil flow between the cap and the Tee would be in either direction, depending on which pump was in operation and discharge pressure of the running pump.

The ESP pump suction side would remain as described above, as would the Oilguard filter return side.

Questions:

Here's where I'm looking for input, which as always is appreciated and welcome...

Should I install the ESP discharge check valve between the pump and the hydraulic filter, downstream of the filter(between filter and Tee that feeds Oilguard), or in some other location? Please give your reasoning as to why.

Should I install the ball valves? Where and why?

Does anyone see a problem with drilling out the billet oil filter cap for larger fittings and hose? Would this also be a good place to install an oil temp probe? (I would install it in the fitting, not drill and tap another hole in the billet cap.)

Does this sound like a reasonable and effective design and layout for integrating these two systems? Are there any areas of concern that I'm not seeing or have not addressed? Any glaring faults or problems with my thinking? What is your overall opinion of this entire project?

Honesty and candor are welcome, I'd rather screw it up on paper and get it right in practice than the other way around....

 

Bump help here please...

 

Wow, a full day and over 70 views and nobody has anything at all to say??? Is it my deodorant? Come on guys, really, you can tell me and I promise my feelings won't be hurt....

 

If I knew what to do I would help you but hang in there..Someone will be by to help you with your project..